.
ALBERT R. MANN
LIBRARY
AT
CORNELL UNIVERSITY
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KNITTING WITHOUT "SPECIMENS"
Knitted Hug-Me-Tight or Bolero.
{Frotttispiect)
KNITTING
WITHOUT "SPECIMENS"
THE MODERN BOOK OF SCHOOL
KNITTING AND CROCHET
BY
ELLEN P. CLAYDON
HEAD MISTRESS OF CHUCKERY COUNCIL SCHOOL, WALSALL J AUTHOR
OF " HANDWORK AND NEEDLEWORK "
AND
C. A. CLAYDON
SEWING MISTRESS, TANTARRA STREET MIXED SCHOOL,
WALSALL
NEW YORK
E. P. DUTTON & COMPANY
681 FIFTH AVENUE
LL.
Printed by
Sir Isaac Pitman & Sons, Ltd., London
PREFACE.
Many books have been published during the last few years dealing with modern
methods in the teaching of sewing. Fewer attempts, however, have been hitherto
made to deal adequately with the teaching of knitting and crochet work as sections
of Needlework Teaching, and as enjoyable forms of Handwork for girls.
These occupations are, nevertheless, not only very useful branches of Needle-
work, but among the most attractive subjects to girls in the whole curriculum.
Moreover, such work as knitting and crochet, in which they are instinctively
interested, is certainly that which is most likely to survive their school days. It
is wise, therefore, to feed the interest of the girls in these useful occupations, and
to meet their eager demands for help. We may then expect that their education
in this direction will become a " self-feeding fire," carrying them far, and not only
providing delightful and healthy occupations for leisure hours in after-school days,
but proving, further, of great social service to others.
The revised " Suggestions for the Teaching of Needlework " advances yet another
argument in support of Knitting as an occupation, which may well be quoted
here : — " Facility in Knitting can only be acquired early, and in old age or
ill-health has a value distinct from that of the garments produced."
The subject, however, should be so taught that the maximum of mental develop-
ment is obtained from it, as well as the maximum of training in manual dexterity.
The necessity for the measurement of sizes, for the selection of suitable materials,
for calculations of quantities and cost, ensures that the girl must think in order
to act effectively. The methods suggested in this book aim, therefore, at uniting
educational value with social utility.
Many schools have in times past spent much time on knitting " Specimens,"
e.g., a square of plain knitting to show chain edge — -a specimen of work to show
narrowings at the back of a stocking — a knitted heel, etc. These examples have
been worked by the girls over and over again, long after they have become quite
proficient in the point being taught. Pounds of wool and knitting cotton have
been wasted in this manner, to serve no useful end. Worse still, the lack of purpose
in the work served to kill the child's interest instead of stimulating it. In the
recently issued report by the Chief Woman Inspector on the teaching of
Needlework, she condemns in no uncertain manner this wastage of effort and
material on specimens. With regard to this point the report states : — " The
vi PREFACE.
working of ' Specimens ' should be discouraged. The effect of ' Specimen ' work
on Needlework teaching has been disastrous."
The scheme of Knitting and Crochet suggested in this book endeavours to meet
the foregoing criticism, by providing that girls shall learn all varieties of stitches
while making useful articles and garments. The selection of such articles for
each class has been guided by the interests of the child at each successive stage.
The little girl's constructive instinct has its first outlet in making something for
her doll and in decorating her doll's house. Later, she is interested also in making
things for her own use and the use of her relations and friends. The scheme aims,
therefore, at embracing within its scope those things in her school and home
environment that are of living interest to the child. This selection and making
of things that are vitally interesting to her will stimulate immensely the girl's
out-of-school observations. She will be quick to seize upon new patterns of knit-
ting in shop windows, and will observe every knitted and crocheted hat, bonnet,
coat, or wrap in the school playground, in order to plan one to suit her own needs.
Lastly, the book aims at producing a spirit of artistic appreciation, by encourag-
ing the selection of materials and colours which are suitable and in good taste ;
such training cannot fail to exercise a refining and beneficial influence on girls,
whatever may be their vocations in adult life.
E. P. CLAYDON.
C. A. CLAYDON.
CONTENTS.
PAGE
Preface ............ v
GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS.
A: — Knitting
METHOD OF HOLDING WOOL ........ 13
MAKING A SLIP LOOP ......... 13
CASTING-ON ........... 15
PLAIN KNITTING .......... 18
PURLING ........... 20
CASTING-OFF . . . . . . . . . . .21
COUNTING ROWS AND ROUNDS ....... 24
JOINING WOOL .......... 27
PICKING UP STITCHES ......... 28
DECREASINGS .......... 30
INCREASINGS ........... 31
B. — Crochet
METHOD OF HOLDING WORK . . . . . . . .34
MAKING A SLIP LOOP ......... 34
CHAIN STITCH .......... 34
DOUBLE CROCHET .......... 36
TREBLE STITCH .......... 36
DOUBLE TREBLE STITCH ......... 36
SINGLE STITCH .......... 37
JOINING WOOL .......... 38
TASSELS, POMPOMS, AND FRINGING ....... 39
WINDING WOOL .......... 42
SEWING TOGETHER PARTS OF GARMENTS ...... 42
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS ......... 42
ABBREVIATIONS .......... 42
WOOLCRAFT ........... 43
BRITISH MANUFACTURERS AND WOOLS : QUALITIES, PRICES, AND USES . 44
GERMAN WOOLS .......... 49
Standard I and Upper Infants.
1. DOLL'S MUFF KNITTED ON BONE NEEDLES
2 (A). DOLL'S SCARF KNITTED ON BONE NEEDLES .
2 (b). FULL-SIZED SCARF ON BONE NEEDLES, TO FIT THE CHILD
3. DOLL'S SHAWL KNITTED ON BONE NEEDLES
4. DOLL'S SCARF ON STEEL NEEDLES . . . . .
50
52
52
52
53
vu
Vlll
CONTENTS.
5. ROLLED PINCUSHION ....
6. QUILT FOR DOLL'S BED ....
7. PURSE WITH NECK-CORD FOR CHILD'S OWN WEAR
8. PURSE WITH HANDLES FOR CHILD'S OWN USE
9. KNITTED IRON-HOLDER ....
10. PINCUSHION COVER ....
11. WASHING GLOVE .....
12. DOLL'S MUFF WITH KNITTED NECK SUPPORT
13. DOLL'S WOOLLEN SHOE ....
14. BABY'S KNITTED SHOE ....
15. KNITTED TOY REINS ....
16. „ „ ,, (ALTERNATIVE SHAPE)
Standard II.
1.
2.
3
3
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11
12.
13
14
14
15
15
16
16
17
'KNITTED BOOK MARKER WITH FRINGED ENDS
COVER FOR NEEDLE-BOOK
(A). ANTIMACASSAR FOR DOLL'S HOUSE
(B). FULL-SIZED ANTIMACASSAR FOR HOUSEHOLD USE
DOLL'S SOFA RUG .
DOLL'S DUTCH BONNET .
COSY FOR DOLL'S TEAPOT
DOLL'S VEST
DOLL'S KNITTED HAT
DOLL'S JERSEY
DOLL'S KILTED WOOLLEN SKIRT
DOLL'S KNITTED COAT (jf-LENGTH)
DOLL'S KNITTED PETTICOAT
DOLL'S SLIPPER WITH LEATHER SOLE
(A). KNITTED RUG FOR DOLL'S HOUSE
(B). FULL-SIZED RUG FOR HOUSEHOLD USE
(a). DOLL'S CROCHETED SHAWL
(b). FULL-SIZED CROCHETED SHAWL .
(A). DOLL'S CROCHETED HAT
(b). FULL-SIZED CROCHETED HAT TO FIT CHILD OF TEN
CROCHETED PURSE FOR CHILD'S OWN USE .
Standard III.
1. SMALL BOY'S KNITTED BRACES .
2. COLOURED CASE FOR CHILD'S BALL .
3. BABY GIRL'S KNITTED STAYS .
4. DOLL'S SCARF KNITTED ON THREE NEEDLES
5. MARBLE BAG FOR CHILD'S BROTHER .
6. LUNCH BAG FOR CHILD'S OWN USE .
7. DOLL'S MUFF .....
8. KNITTED CUFFS FOR CHILD'S OWN WEAR .
CONTENTS.
9 (a). doll s petticoat, knitted in strips .
9 (b). petticoat, knitted in strips, for child's own wear
10. knitted tea-cosy .....
11. doll's jersey on three needles .
12. doll's hat . .......
13. knitted hat for child's own wear
14. tie knitted in spider pattern
15 (a), doll's crocheted 'bonnet
15 (b). FULL-SIZED BONNET FOR CHILD OF EIGHT OR NINE
16 (a). DOLL'S CROCHETED PETTICOAT
16 (B). FULL-SIZED CROCHETED PETTICOAT FOR CHILD OF TEN OR ELEVEN
17. CROCHETED CUFFS FOR CHILD'S OWN WEAR
18. CROCHETED HAIR-BAND FOR GIRL'S OWN WEAR .
Standard IV.
1. triangular head-wrap ....
2. baby's first vest .....
3. child's vest ......
4. striped silk tie, or sports tie in club colours
5. baby's belt ......
6. knitted scarf ......
7. sleeping sock ......
8. lady's bedroom slipper ....
9. woollen bonnet for child's own wear
10. woollen hat knitted on three needles
11. small girl's crocheted stays
12. crocheted hair-band for girl's own wear .
13. crocheted shawl (simple pattern)
14. girl's crocheted hat (simple pattern) .
15. girl's crocheted bonnet (simple pattern) .
Standard V.
1. CHILD'S KNITTED STOLE OR MUFFLER
2. CHILD'S KNITTED MUFF ....
3. BABY'S KNITTED PETTICOAT
4. BABY'S GAITER .....
5. KNITTED HUG-ME-TIGHT OR BOLERO .
6 (A). RULES FOR KNITTING AND TURNING HEELS
6 (b). CHILD'S SOCK .....
7. SHAWL OR WRAP OF SHETLAND WOOL
8. GIRL'S CROCHETED PETTICOAT (SIMPLE PATTERN
9. CROCHETED SCARF ....
10. VESTETTE, OR SHAPED NECK-WRAP, IN CROCHET
11. CROCHETED SILK NECK-WRAP .
12. CROCHETED TIE FOR GIRL'S OWN WEAR
CONTENTS.
Standard VI.
1 (a), stocking for child's own wear
1 (b). stockings of different sizes .
1 (c). RE- welting and re-footing of socks
■2. GENTLEMEN'S RIBBED SOCK
3. CHILD'S KNITTED JERSEY
4. BABY'S KNITTED GLOVE .
5. KNITTED LACE EDGING .
6. BABY'S CROCHETED BONNET
7. CROCHETED WOOLLEN HAT, WITH BRIM
8. CROCHETED PETTICOAT
9. CROCHETED CURTAIN HOLDER .
10. CROCHETED SHAWL
OR STOCKINGS
PAGE
157
159
160
162
164
167
170
171
172
174
176
178
Standard VII.
1(A). GLOVE FOR GIRL'S OWN WEAR
1 (B). MITTEN FOR GIRL'S OWN WEAR .
2. BABY'S KNITTED COAT
BABY'S BOOTEES ....
BABY'S ORNAMENTAL SILK SOCK
CROCHETED EGG-COSY . . .
CROCHETED TEA-COSY
). CROCHETED PERAMBULATOR COVER
3.
4.
5.
6.
;7 .
7 (b). CROCHETED COT COVER
7 (c). CROCHETED SOFA RUG
8. CROCHETED HUG-ME-TIGHT
9. FIRST LACE EDGING IN CROCHET
10. SECOND LACE EDGING IN CROCHET
11. THIRD LACE EDGING IN CROCHET
180
183
183
186
189
192
194
195
197
197
197
202
202
203
KNITTING WITHOUT
"SPECIMENS."
THE MODERN BOOK OF SCHOOL
KNITTING AND CROCHET.
GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS.
I. — It will be observed that a very wide range of articles has been suggested
ifor each Standard or Class. It is unlikely that any one girl will make all the
articles given, but the syllabus for the class should, as the recent report on Needle-
work Teaching suggests, provide a choice of garments. Each girl may then select
-those which she requires, provided that she has not made such garments or articles
before. The report adds : — " Variety of work is good both for the teacher and the
class. The tradition that a child cannot be expected to make more than one
garment a year is passing away." Each teacher will, of course, be guided also by
-the interests and needs of her own particular girls and district, and. will find little
difficulty in adding to the following syllabus, or modifying it to suit her own
requirements.
II. — In many cases, instructions are given for the knitting or crocheting of the
.•article, both small size for the Doll or Doll's House, and full size. In lower classes,
iull-sized garments, or even garments to fit the children themselves, are often too
large for them to manipulate and also take too long. It is advisable, therefore,
ior the majority of children in lower classes to knit or crochet small articles or
garments for their dolls. Children who show exceptional facility should be en-
couraged to attempt larger articles. Even in upper standards the teacher will
sometimes find it useful, when the time is short, to teach the method of working
by means of a small article. Every girl should, however, always keep in her
arecord book the detailed instructions for making the article full size.
III. — -In every case, the knitting or crochet will be done, after careful measure-
ment by the children, of the size required to fit the child, doll, doll's house, etc.,
-for which the article is being made. Children will soon be able to make a fair
■estimate of the number of stitches required for articles of given sizes. It is a good
plan to keep at schooi a doll of suitable size, say 16 in. high, to which children
■shall fit all their doll's garments. They will thus have a standard of comparison
as a guide for their future work. Moreover, in the case of a very large class, a
■teacher can more effectively teach a new stitch or method when all the children are
working on articles to fit the same doll. All the doll's garments described in this
lbook have been made to fit a doll 16 in. high from head to foot. The width across
11
12 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
the shoulders was 4 in., size round waist 8f in., length of arm 3£ in., skirt length
5£ in., and measurement round head, as for a knitted tam-o'-shanter, 8 m -
After the method of making a garment, e.g., a bonnet, has been grasped, children
should be allowed to bring their own dolls ; they can then make the same garment
a second time, estimating entirely for themselves, from knowledge previously
gained, the number of stitches requisite to fit the respective dolls brought. In
the case of the second article made, it is well to encourage the children to introduce
variations in pattern from the teacher's type, thus giving scope for initiative and
originality, and avoiding keeping all the girls at the same level.
IV. — -A certain amount of co-operation is advisable, e.g., it is often helpful for
older girls to sew together and decorate garments made in lower classes. This
affords good social training.
V. — The teacher should discuss with the girls the selection of suitable colours
and materials for their work, and should let them calculate the cost of every article
made. This is an educational aspect of the work which should not be neglected.
VI. — If wool, needles, or crochet-hook are employed, coarser than those given
in the directions, the number of stitches or chain should be diminished propor-
tionately. Such a proceeding is sometimes useful in order to lessen or simplify
the work in the case of backward children.
It will be found that the knitting of individual children varies so widely in slack-
ness or tightness, that the same number of stitches may produce pieces of knitting
of very different sizes. The same variation occurs also in crochet.
Therefore, in the instructions for every garment, the required width in inches
has been given as well as the number of stitches or chain to commence with. The
following plan may be adopted in estimating the exact number of stitches required
in the case of individual knitters : Work a small piece of knitting of not less than
1 in. in width. (Use the same size of needles and wool as those to be employed for
the garment.) Count the number of stitches that have produced unstretched
' knitting 1 in. in width. Multiply this number by the number of inches required
for the width of the garment, and this will give the number of stitches to be cast on.
The dimensions will also be found helpful in cases where teachers have not at
their disposal the exact size of needles or wool advised in the instructions. Adopt
the plan described above for estimating the number of stitches necessary.
VII. — In teaching all new points in knitting, the teacher should demonstrate to-
the whole class by means of large wooden knitting needles and thick rug wool, such
as those shown in Fig. 5. A very coarse crochet hook and rug wool are also suitable
for demonstrating points in crochet work. Another obvious method is to sketch
the necessary diagrams boldly on the blackboard.
VIII. — For convenience, directions concerning the fundamental processes of
Knitting are collected in pages 13-33 ; those dealing with Crochet will be found on
pages 34-8 ; and pages 39-42 are occupied with instructions on the making of
Tassels, Pompoms, and Fringing.
A.— KNITTING.
METHOD OF HOLDING WOOL.
Pass the wool over the first finger of the right hand, under the second and
third fingers, and over the fourth finger, giving an additional twist round the last
finger. (See Figs. 1 and 2.)
UHHUHUIM^^HBg
Fig. 1. Method of Holding Wool in Knitting.
(Outside view as seen by an onlooker.)
MAKING A SLIP LOOP.
Take a knitting-needle in the right hand. Catch the wool in the left hand
about 6 in. from the end, bring it forward between the first finger and the thumb,
and pass it once completely round the thumb from left to right, crossing the wool
as shown in Fig. 3. Pass the wool coming from the ball over the fingers of the
right hand as described under " Method of Holding Wool." Pass the point of
the needle under the loop. With the forefinger of the right hand, pass the wool
round the point of the right-hand needle (Fig. 3), and draw the thread through
the loop, thus 1 making another loop. Withdraw the thumb, and pull gently on
the left-hand 'thread to tighten the stitch. (See Fig. 4.)
13
14
KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
Fig. 2. Method of Holding Wool in Knitting. Inside Front.
( View as seen by the worker, with the right hand raised as for
slipping the wool over the right-hand needle with the first finger,
showing also the twisting of the wool round the little finger.)
(Step 1.)
KNITTING.
IS
Fig. 4. Making a Slip Loop. [Step 2.)
CASTING-ON.
(a) First Method — Knitting-on.
Make a slip loop as described above on one needle. ,Pass the needle to the
left hand. Take a second needle in the right hand, and place the wool in position
for knitting over the right-hand fingers, as before. Insert the point of the right-
hand needle in the stitch, pass the wool round the point of this needle with the-
forefinger of the right hand (Fig. 5 : Step 1), and draw a second stitch through
the first (Fig. 5 : Step 2). Place this stitch on the left-hand needle (Fig. 5 r
Step 3). Repeat this process until the required number of stitches has been cast on..
(b) Second Method.
One knitting-needle only and the left thumb are employed. Leave an end of
wool a yard or more in length according to the number of stitches to be cast on.
Make a slip loop as described above, and retain it on the needle. Make a second,
slip loop and place it on the needle beside the first one. (See Fig. 6.) Continue
the process until the required number of stitches have been cast on. It will be
seen from Fig. 3 that this method of casting-on consists in making a series of slip
loops.
This is the better method to employ when strength is required, or when coarse
needles are employed.
16
KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
Fig. 5. Casting-on. First Method, Knitting-on.
(Steps 1, 2, and 3.)
KNITTING.
17
Fig. 6. Second Method of Casting-on — a Series of Slip Loops.
(c) Casting-on on Three Needles.
(1) Knitting-on. — Suppose that 20 stitches are to be cast-on on each of three
needles. Cast on 20 stitches on one needle, form the twenty-first stitch, and leave
it on the right-hand needle ; drop the left-hand needle, pass the right-hand needle
to the left hand, and pick up a fresh needle with the right hand. Cast on another
19 stitches on the second needle (making 20 in all), form the twenty-first stitch,
and again keep it on the right-hand needle, to form the first stitch of the third
needle. Cast on the remaining 19 stitches of the third needle. Take great care
to draw the first stitch of each needle sufficiently tight to leave no gap between
the needles. (Fig. 7.)
Fig. 7. Casting-on on Three Needles. {Step 1.)
2— (815 B)
18
KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
Pass the left hand lightly along the three needles to see that no stitches have
become twisted. Bring the third needle round to the commencing stitch of the
first needle and begin to knit in that stitch, drawing the first stitch up very tightly
so that no " bar of wool " is left between the needles. (Fig. 8.)
Fig. 8. Casting-on on Three Needles. (Step 2.)
(2) When the second method is employed. — Take the first needle, and cast on
the required number of stitches by making a series of slip loops. ' Take up the
second needle, and be careful, in making the first stitch on this needle, to pass the
wool round the thumb as closely as possible to the last stitch on the first needle •
this will prevent the formation of a gap between the needles. Deal similarly with
the commencement of the third needle, and join the three needles together as
described under " Knitting-on."
PLAIN KNITTING.
Place the hands in position as described under " Method of Holding Work "
{Figs. 1 and 2). Insert the point of the right-hand needle in the stitch to be
iknitted ; pass the wool round this needle with the forefinger of the ri^ht hand
•(see Fig. 9), and draw the wool through to form another stitch. Retain & this new
iStitch on the right-hand needle. Proceed in this manner to the end of the row
In knitting on two needles the first stitch of each row must always be sliDDed
This slipping may be done in two ways (in plain knitting) : "
KNITTING.
19
(1) Without chain edge, — In this method the needle is simply inserted knit-wise,
and the stitch is slipped off on to the right-hand needle.
Fig. 9. Plain Knitting.
Fig. 10. Chain Edge.
20
KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
(2) With chain edge. — In this method the needle is inserted purl-wise, the wool
is carried round the first stitch from the front to the back of the work, and the
second stitch knitted in the ordinary manner. (See Fig. 10.)
PURLING.
In purling, keep the wool to the front of the work. Insert the needle from
right to left through the front of the stitch to be purled. Pass the wool round
the point of the right-hand needle from right to left (Step 1, Fig. 11). Draw the
wool through the stitch in a backward direction (Step 2, Fig. 11(a) ), and allow the
loop to be drawn off the left-hand needle.
Fig. 11. Purl.ng. (S.ep 1.
Fig. 11(a). Purling. (Step 2.)
KNITTING.,
21
CASTING-OFF.
(a) First Method.
Slip the first stitch, and knit the second ; then, with the left-hand needle,
draw the first stitch over the second. Knit the third stitch.; pass the second
stitch over this. Continue to remove the stitches in this manner (see Fig. 12).
When only one stitch remains, break off the wool ; draw the loop of the remaining
stitch through, and fasten off the end by knitting or darning it in. A chain edge
is produced by this method of casting-off.
Fig. 12. Casting-off. First Method.
(b) Second Method.
This is known as " Knitting-off." It produces an edge which matches the
casting-on better than the edge produced by the First Method.
Knit two together (Fig. 13), and transfer the resulting stitch from the right-
hand needle to the left (Fig. 14). Again knit two together and transfer the stitch.
Repeat this process until only one stitch remains on the needle. Deal with this
remaining stitch as described under First Method.
(c) Third Method — To produce a rounded method of closing up an opening.
Break off the wool, leaving an end about 8 in. in length. Knit a stitch, and
draw the end of the wool right through the stitch (see Fig. 15). Proceed in this
manner until one stitch only remains. Deal with this remaining stitch as described
under First Method.
22
KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
Fig
Castiag-off. Second Method. {Step 2.)
(i) Fourth Method — To produce a square closed end, at the toe of a stocking; top
of a baby's glove, etc.
Arrange the stitches on two needles, an equal number on each. Turn the work
on to the wrong side. Knit two stitches together, one from each needle ; knit
another two stitches together in the same manner (see Figs. 16 and 17). Pass the
first resulting stitch over the second. Again knit two stitches together, one from
each needle, and repeat the process of passing the previous stitch over. Continue
in this way until only one stitch remains. Deal with this remaining stitch as
described under First Method.
KNITTING.
23
Fig. 15. Casting-off. Third Method : to produce a Rounded
Method of- Closing up an Opening.
Fig. 16. Casting-off. Fourth Method : to produce a Square-closed End.
(Step 1.)
24
KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
Fig. 17. Casting-off. Fourth Method : to produce a Square-closed End.
{Step 2.)
(e) Grafting-off.
This is another method of casting-off the toe of a stocking, etc., without leaving
any evidence of a ridge. Though the most difficult method of casting-off, it is
the neatest.
Arrange the stitches on two needles, an equal number on each. Break off
the wool, leaving an end about 14 in. long. Thread this into a wool needle — which
has no point — and proceed as follows : —
(1) Insert the wool- needle knit- wise into the first stitch on the front needle,
and slip the stitch from the knitting-needle on to the wool-needle. Next insert
the wool-needle purl- wise into the second stitch (Fig. 18), and let this stitch re-
main on the knitting-needle. Draw the wool through, letting the second stitch
still remain on the front knitting-needle.
(2) Insert the needle purl-wise into the first stitch on the back needle, and slip
off the stitch on to the wool-needle. Insert the needle knit-wise into the second
stitch (Fig. 19), and let this stitch remain on the knitting-needle. Draw the wool
through, still letting the second stitch remain on the back knitting-needle.
Return to the front needle and repeat process (1), and then to the back and
repeat process (2). Continue in this way until only one stitch remains. Deal
with this last stitch as described under the First Method.
COUNTING OF ROWS AND ROUNDS.
It is frequently necessary, in order correctly to follow instructions, to be able
to count readily the number of " Rows " or " Rounds " which have been worked.
Figs. 20 and 21 show the methods of doing this.
KNITTING.
25
Fig. 18. Grafting-off. (Step 1.
f.v
Fig. 19. Grafting off. (Step 2.)
26 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
(a) Counting of Rows.
Twelve rows of plain knitting are shown in Fig. 20, two rows of knitting
going to form one ridge. Each white mark, therefore, indicates two rows.
Fig. 20. Counting of Rows.
(Twelve rows of Plain Knitting. Each white mark represents two rows.)
(b) Counting of Rounds.
Twelve rounds of plain knitting are shown in Fig. 21. Each white mark,
(therefore, indicates one round.
! Fig. 21. Counting of Rounds.
(Twelve rounds of Plain Knitting. Each white mark represents one round.)
KNITTING.
27
JOINING WOOL.
Under no circumstances should knots be employed to join wool in knitting.
If a knot occurs in the knitting wool which is being used, it should not be allowed
to remain there, but the wool should be broken, and the join carried out in the
correct manner. Proceed as follows : —
Use up the wool till an end about 5 in. long remains. Take the end of the
new piece to be joined on, and place it alongside the old end, so that the two ends
point in opposite directions, the old end to the right, and the new end to the left
(see Fig. 22). Hold the end of the new thread steady by placing it between the
Method of Joining Wool in Knitting.
first and second fingers of the left hand. Holding the short end of the old wool in
the right hand, together with the new wool coming from the ball, knit four or five
stitches with the double wool. Then, dropping the end of the old wool, continue
to knit with the new wool alone. Both the new and the old ends will thus be left on
the side of the work away from the knitter. When knitting the next row or round,
be careful not to separate the threads in the double stitches, but to knit the two
together. The presence of the double stitches naturally produces a certain thick-
ness in the knitting, which in fine work is better avoided. This can be done by
splitting the wool at each end for a few inches, and removing half the strands of
each before placing them together. The two ends together then make the thickness
of one thread. This plan, however, should not be attempted with beginners.
28
KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
PICKING UP STITCHES.
(a) In Plain Knitting, when the stitch has been dropped two or three
loops only.
Pick up the dropped stitch on to the point of the left-hand needle in front of
the bars. With the right-hand needle take' up the lowest strand and place it on
the left-hand needle next to the stitch (Fig. 23, Step 1). Take the stitch on the
point of the ri°:ht-hand needle, and draw it over the bar and the point of the left-
hand needle (Fig. 23, Step 2). Withdraw the point of the right-hand needle.
Now take up the next strand above, and place as before -on the left-hand needle.
Repeat the process described above. Continue in this manner until the top loop
of the ladder has been picked up.
A.
Fig. 23. Plain Knitting : picking up a Dropped Stitch.
(A) Step 1. (B) Step 2.
(b) In Purling, when the stitch has been dropped for two or three loops
ONLY.
Pick up the dropped stitch on to the point of the left-hand needle behind the
loops. With the right-hand needle take up the lowest loop and place it on the
left-hand needle in front of the stitch (Fig. 24, Step 1). Insert the point of th
KNITTING.
29
right-hand needle into the stitch, and draw it forward over the loop and the point
of the left-hand needle (Fig. 24, Step 2) . Withdraw the point of the right-hand
needle. Proceed in exactly the same manner with each ascending loop, until the
top rung of the ladder has been picked up.
Purling : picking up a Dropped Stitch.
(A) Step 1. (B) Step 2.
(c) Picking up the Stitch with a Crochet-hook.
This method is preferable when the stitch has been dropped down for a.
considerable number of loops.
(1) Plain Knitting. — Insert the point of the crochet-hook in the dropped stitch,,
and pass it behind the lowest loop (Fig. 25, Step 1). With the hook, draw the loop-
forwards and downwards through the stitch (Fig. 25, Step 2). Retaining the-
stitch on the hook, pass the point behind the next loop above, and draw this through
the stitch as before. Repeat this process until the top loop of the ladder has been,
picked up.
(2) Purling. — To pick up a purled stitch with a crochet-hook, turn to'the back;
of the work, and proceed exactly as in the case of a knitted stitch.
30
KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
A. B.
Fig. 25. Picking up a Dropped Stitch with a Crochet-hook.
(A) Step 1. (B) Step 2.
DECREASINGS.
I.
The number of stitches on the needle may be decreased in either of the following
ways : —
(a) First Method.
Knitting two stitches together. The method of doing this is clearly shown in
the illustration of Casting off, Second Method, Figs. 13 and 14. This method of
decreasing produces a slight slope to the right.
(6) Second Method.
Slip a stitch, knit the next stitch, and with the point of the left needle draw
the slipped stitch over the knitted one and the point of the right needle. The
process is clearly shown in the illustration of Casting off, First Method (Fig. 12).
This method of decreasing produces a slight slope to the left. It is sometimes
called the " Pulling-over " method.
The above two ways of decreasing are frequently used in the same piece of
work, where it is necessary to make the decreasings slope in pairs, as, for example,
on either side of the seam-stitch in the leg of a stocking, or on the sides of the toe
of a sock or stocking.
KNITTING.
31
INCREASINGS.
The number of stitches on a needle may be increased in any of the following
ways : —
First Method.
Knit twice into the same stitch, i.e., into the front, and then, before removing
it, into the back of the same stitch. This is a very satisfactory method of increasing
for most purposes, as it produces no hole in the work, and does not draw the knit-
ting out of shape in any way. The increasing made by this method is, indeed,
almost indistinguishable.
A. B.
Fig. 26. Second and Third Methods of Increasing.
Second Method.
When doing plain knitting, an additional stitch may be made by bringing the
wool to the front under the point of the right needle, taking it over to the back
again, and then knitting the next stitch as usual. Fig. 26, A, shows the new
stitch thus made, and the wool being placed round the right-hand needle in
readiness to knit the next stitch.
32 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
In the case of purling, the wool is already at the front. Pass it over the needle
to the back, and under it to the front again ; then purl the next stitch.
This method of increasing causes a hole, and is frequently used to produce
fancy patterns. A seiies of such holes may also be used for inserting ribbon or
draw-strings.
To obtain a still larger hole, pass the wool twice or even three times round the
needle. Such a hole is sometimes employed as a button-hole, e.g., in a child's
jersey, etc.
Third Method — Raising a stitch.
Make the stitch in this case by taking a loop from the row below (see Fig. 26, B),
putting it on to the left needle, and knitting into it with the right needle. This
method produces no hole.
Fig. 27. Fourth Method of Increasing.
Fourth Method.
Take up the small bar of thread between the two loops of 1he previous row,
and knit into it (see Fig. 27). This makes a very small hole which is used in some
fancy patterns, e.g., in a Bedroom Slipper.
Fifth Method — To make a stitch at the commencement of a row.
Place the point of the right-hand needle under the wool before inserting it into
the first stitch (see Fig. 28). This forms an additional stitch or loop at the
KNITTING.
33
beginning of the row. When coming back along the row, be careful to knit into
this loop separately.
Fig. 28. Fifth Method of Increasing.
(Making a stitch at the beginning of a needle.)
3-(8l5B)
B. — CROCHET.
METHOD OF HOLDING WORK.
Hold the wool in the left hand in the following way : Pass it over the first
two fingers, under the third, and wind it once round the little finger, in order to
keep the wool in position and control the tension.
Hold the work with the thumb and first finger of the left hand, and stretch
out the second finger a short distance to hold the wool clear of the work (see Figs.
29 and 30).
Fig. 29. Method of Holding Wool in Crochet.
(Outside view as seen by an onlooker.)
MAKING A SLIP LOOP.
Instructions for doing this are given above under Knitting.
CHAIN STITCH.
Make a slip loop, and place it on the hook. Holding the wool at a tension.
across the fingers of the left hand, place the hook under the wool, as shown in
Fig. 31, and draw the portion taken up through the loop. Again place the hook
under the wool and draw it through. Repeat this until a chain of the requisite-
34
CROCHET.
35
Fig. 30. Method of Holding Wool in Crochet.
( Inside front view as seen by the worker — but with the left hand raised in order
to show the method of twisting the wool round the little finger.)
Fig. 31. Chain' Stitch.
36 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
length has been obtained. A chain is always employed in commencing a crocheted
article, and chain stitches are also used for turning the rows in double, treble, and
double-treble crochet.
DOUBLE CROCHET.
Make a short length of chain as a foundation. Place the hook in the second
chain, and draw a loop of wool through it. Now place the hook again under the
wool, and draw the wool through the two loops which are upon the hook. This
. completes the first stitch. Place the hook in the next stitch, as seen in Fig. 32,
and proceed as before. Repeat this process to the end of the row.
Fig. 32. Double Crochet.
TREBLE STITCH.
Again make a short length of chain as a foundation. Pass the hook under
the wool, and then place it in the third chain from the end. Draw the wool through,
thus making the number of stitches on the hook up to three. Put the hook under
the wool {see Fig. 33), and draw a loop through the first two stitches ; then, again
placing the hook under the wool, draw a loop through the last two. This completes
one treble stitch.
DOUBLE TREBLE STITCH.
This is similar to treble stitch, but the hook is passed twice under the woo\
before it is placed in the fourth chain. Draw the wool through, thus making thef
CROCHET. ■ 37
number of stitches on the hook up to four. Put the hook under the wool (Fig. 34),
draw a loop through the first two stitches, then draw a loop through the next two,
and, lastly, draw a loop through the remaining two. This completes one double
treble stitch.
Fig. 33. Crochet — Treble Stitch.
Fig. 34. Crochet — Double-treble Stitch.
SINGLE STITCH,
This is chiefly used as a joining stitch, or as a means of getting from one place
to another without breaking the thread. It is worked by passing the hook through
a stitch, and then drawing a loop of wool through both the stitch and the loop
which was upon the needle already. (See Fig. 35.)
38
KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
Crochet
JOINING WOOL IN CROCHET.
When it becomes necessary to join on new wool, it is quite inadmissible to knot
the two ends together. Proceed to join on the new wool as follows : Leave enough
wool from the old ball to make two or three more stitches ; take up the wool com-
ing from the fresh ball, and work the next stitch with it, whether it be single,
idouble, treble, or double treble. Work the next stitch with the thread from the
old ball, the following with the new wool, one more stitch with the old (see Fig. 36),
and then continue the work, using the new wool only.
Fig. 36. Method of Joining Wool in Crochet.
TASSELS, POMPOMS, AND FRINGING.
IX. — These are often used as decorations for knitted and crocheted articles.
Short descriptions of the methods of making them are given below.
(a) A Tassel may be quickly made as follows : Take a strip of thick card and let
its width be equal to the length required for the tassel. Place along the top of the
card a double or treble piece of wool 3 or 4 in. long. Now wind the wool
round and round the card until about twenty or twenty-five loops have been
formed which lie evenly side by side. Tie these tightly up together at the top
with the piece of wool that was laid along the edge of the card. Now cut through
all the loops of wool at the bottom edge of the card ; the cut edges will form the
ends of the tassel. Wind a piece of wool two or three times round the tassel about a
quarter of an inch from the top, and tie securely, cutting o ff the short ends . Level the
ends of the tassels with scissors if they are of different lengths. A tassel of larger
size, suitable for a thick scarf, may be made from a crocheted chain looped up at
equal intervals until sufficient fullness has been obtained.
(b) A Pompom may be made in a similar way to a tassel, but about twice as
many loops of wool will be required, and the lengths employed will be shorter.
The pompom will require to be tied once only at the top, and not a second time
as in the case of the tassel. Trim the ends with scissors to produce a nicely-rounded
effect.
A pompom or ball may also be made as follows : Obtain two equal, circular
pieces of card of the required size, each one having a hole in the centre, and
place one over the other. The diameter of the card shown in Fig. 37 was 4 in.,
Fig. 37. Circular Method of Winding Wool for a Pompom.
39
40
KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
and the diameter o;E the opening in the centre was 1 £ in. This produced a pompom
with a diameter of 2\ in. The dimensions may be varied to produce a pompom
of any size desired.
Wind the wool round the two cards from the centre outwards until they are
covered and the centre is almost full. Insert the scissors between the cards at the
outer circumference, and cut the wool all round. Wind a separate piece of wool
twice round tightly between the cardboard discs, tie securely, and slip the pompom
off.
Steam the ball in order to make the cut ends of the wool fluffy.
(c) A Fringe may be made in the following manner : Cut a number of strips
of wool twice the length required for the depth of the fringe. This may be done
by winding wool evenly round a strip of stiff card or wood, and cutting along one
edge of the loops thus formed. A gauge, such as is used for cutting rug wool, is
useful for this purpose. (See " Knitted Rug," St. II.) Double one of these strips
of wool, and hold it in the left hand with the ends downwards. Now push a
crochet hook through one of the loops of the edge to be fringed, take the doubled
! loop of wool from the left hand on to the crochet-hook (see Fig. 38), and draw it
pjust through the edge, leaving the two ends of the strip of wool projecting on the
& other side. Now take these two ends of wool upon the hook (see Fig. 39), pass
them through the loop that was hooked through, and pull them up tightly with
the left hand (Fig. 40). Proceed thus along the entire length of the edge to be
Fig. 38. Fringing. (Step 1.)
TASSELS, POMPOMS, AND FRINGING. 41
Fig. 40. Fringing. (Step 3.)
42 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
fringed, drawing a strip of wool through every loop so that no spaces occur. A
double or treble fringe is often desirable in the case of thin wool, silk, or cotton.
In such a case put two or three slips of wool together, and then double them to
form a loop. Thus, each time, a double or treble loop will be pulled through,
making the fringe of greater thickness.
WINDING OF WOOL.
X. — When winding wool from a skein, avoid stretching it by winding it tightly
into a hard ball, as this makes it thin and poor. Wind it loosely over three or four
fingers of the left hand, held outside the ball. Withdraw these fingers carefully
from time to time, while winding, to change the position of the ball. This plan
■will keep the wool soft and elastic.
SEWING TOGETHER OF PARTS OF GARMENTS.
XI. — Many of the garments referred to in the book are not knitted in one piece,
and the separate portions, therefore, require sewing together. In all cases this
sewing should be done with the same material as that of which the garment has
been knitted, to render the join as imperceptible as possible. The joins should be
made on the wrong side of the garment. Avoid drawing the work so tightly as
to cause dragging at the seams. In the upper classes, the girls may be taught to
■crochet the portions of the garments together, using single stitch for this purpose.
All ends of wool left from the knitting or joining together of garments, should
toe neatly finished off by darning in on the wrong side of the work.
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS.
XII. — The sharp points of steel knitting-needles and steel crochet-hooks are a
source oE danger if carried uncovered.
A very simple method of shielding them is to insert each in a cork when
the work is put away.
Knitting-pin shields made of bone may be purchased at about 3Jd. per pair,
ithough such expensive appliances are hardly necessary for school purposes.
ABBREVIATIONS.
In some cases the following abbreviations are employed in the
instructions : —
(a) Knitting. K., knit; p., purl; st., stitch(es) ; si., slip; m.,
make ; tog., together.
(b) Crochet. Ch., chain ; d.c, double crochet ; tr., treble ; d. tr.,
double treble.
WOOLCRAFT.
l--7-So many varieties of knitting wools are now placed upon the market by
British manufacturers that it is no easy matter to select the most suitable with
regard to price, quality, and comparative thickness.
2. — The names and addresses of four important British manufacturing firms
have been given below, together with information with regard to the most useful
varieties of wools for school purposes produced by each. The lists of wools de-
scribed are by no means complete catalogues of the varieties manufactured by
these makers ; some of the most expensive and highly-finished wools have been
omitted for obvious reasons. Further information can always be obtained by
applying to the firms direct, or to their local agents. The prices quoted below
will be found to vary locally (except in the case of " Greenock Wools," manufac-
tured by Fleming, Reid & Co.), and to fluctuate also with the state of the wool
market. Many retail firms are willing to quote lower prices to schools ordering
in considerable quantities.
3. — With regard to the comparative thickness of wools, the following distinctions
are generally adopted by all firms : —
(a) 2-ply is a term describing wools in which two threads only are twisted
together, as in Shetland wool, eider wool, etc. The 2-ply wools are thus the thin
nest wools obtainable. They usually have a soft, fine finish, and are suitable for
making babies' garments and dainty shawls and wraps.
' (b) 3-ply is descriptive of wools in which three threads 'are twisted together,
producing a greater thickness than in the case of 2-ply wools,
i (c) 4-ply wools are composed of four threads twisted together, producing wools
of the thickness most generally employed for school purposes. It must be remem-
bered, however, that the threads employed to produce a 4-ply wool vary in thick-
ness with different makes ; the " twistedness " of the wool and the softness of the
threads employed vary also, so that all 4-ply wools are not of exactly the same
thickness, though they approximate to the same size. Similar variations occur also
in the thicknesses of the 2-ply, 3-ply, 5-ply, 6-ply, and 8-ply wools, according to
make and quality.
- (d) 5-ply describes wools in which five threads are employed, producing a thicker
wool than 4-ply. 5-ply wools are suitable for heavier garments, such as thick
winter socks or stockings, petticoats, etc.
(e) 6-ply wools are composed of six threads, and are consequently heavier in
make than 5-ply. Wools known as " Wheeling " are often equal in thickness to
6-ply, although a smaller number of thicker threads may be employed.
(/) 8-ply wools, composed of eight threads, are the thickest wools usually
employed, except Rug Wool. Wools known as " Double Knitting " are often
equal in thickness to 8-ply, though frequently four threads only, but of greater
thickness, are employed. The " Double Knitting " wools, or " Double Fingerings,"
are used largely for knitted or crocheted coats and hats.
N.B. — In purchasing wool, it should be remembered that a thick wool at a
low price may be no more economical than a more expensive thinner wool, for the
same weight of a thinner wool gives greater length.
4. — ■Qualities of Wools. The price of a wool is by no means an index of its
wearing quality. Sometimes the cheaper wools, which are more hairy and less
soft in finish, wear as long as, or longer than, more expensive wools of finer, softer,
43
44
KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
and smoother varieties. An important point in selecting the quality is its suit-
ability to the purpose in hand. For babies' garments, underwear, and soft shawls
or wraps, a soft finish is necessary. For hats, coats, thick hose, hard-wearing gloves,
etc., the more hairy qualities are suitable.
5. — Colours. Wools in plain colours are usually from 4d. to 6d. a lb. cheaper than
wools in fancy colours. The plain colours generally include white, black, natural
grey, and pink, while fancy colours include other shades in one colour (such as
blue, red, green, brown, etc.), speckled wools, and mixtures.
BRITISH MANUFACTURERS AND WOOLS.
Maker.
Name of Wool.
Quality.
Use.
I'Messrs. Fleming,
Reid& Co., The
: Worsted Mills,
Greenock, Scot-
land
The wools manu-
factured by this
firm are known as
" Greenock Knit-
ting Wools," and
are sold at uni-
form prices in the
Scotch wool shops
throughout the
United Kingdom.
Do. \ do.
do.
do.
Do. do.
Do.
do.
do.
do.
do.
do.
Scotch Fin-
gering
(4-ply).
G r e enock
Fingering
(3, 4, and
5-ply).
Greenock
Super Fin-
gering (2,
3, 4, and
5-ply).
Eider Wool
(2 and 3-
piy)-
Plain
ours,
per lb.
Fancy
ours,
per lb.
Col-
2/8
Col-
3/-
Plain Col-
ours, 3/8
per lb.
Fancy Col-
ours, 4/—
per lb.
ours.
4/8
per lb
Fancy
Col-
ours,
V-
per lb
4/8 per
lb.
This is a strong, sound
knitting yarn, very
suitable for school
purposes, or in cases
where economy is
desired, as, although
not soft in finish it
is very durable in
wear. It is suitable
for socks, stockings,
petticoats, jerseys,
school gloves, etc.
This is a softer wool
than the Scotch
Fingering, but is
strong and durable.
It is also suitable for
socks (in the mot-
tled variety) , stock-
ings, and underwear.
This wool has a soft,
smooth finish, and is
suitable for babies'
garments, shawls,
etc. The 4 and 5-ply
of this make are
suitable for hose of
a better quality.
This is a loosely
twisted wool, and
can be used in place
of Shetland wool for
fine shawls or wraps,
where a lacy effect is
desired.
WOOLCRAFT.
45
Maker.
Name of Wool.
Quality.
Price.
Use.
Messrs. Fleming,
The wools manu-
Scott ish
4/- per lb.
This is an example of
Reid& Co., The
factured by this
Fleece.
a very hairy loosely-
Worsted Mills,
firm are known as
twisted wool ; it is
Greenock, Scot-
" Greenock Knit-
useful for soft, loose-
land
ting Wools," and
are sold at uni-
form prices in the
Scotch wool shops
throughout the
United Kingdom.
ly knitted shawls,
where warmth and
lightness combined
are required.
Do. do.
do. do.
Double
Plain Col-
This is a thick, hard-
Knitting
ours, 3/8
wearing wool, suit-
(equal to
per lb.
able for knitted
8-ply).
Fancy Col-
ours, 4/-
per lb.
coats, hats, peram-
bulator-covers, cot-
covers, slippers, etc.
Messrs. John
The wools manu-
Rose Wheel-
Plain Col-
This is a thick, hard-
Paton, Son &
factured by this
ing.
ours, 2/9
wearing wool. It
Co., Ltd., Alloa,
firm are usually
per lb.
lacks softness of fin-
Scotland.
known as the
Fancy Col-
ish, but is suitable
" Alloa Knitting
ours and
for heavy wear. It
Wools."
Mixtures,
3/3 per lb.
may be used for
thick socks, stock-
ings, jerseys, and
school hats and
scarfs.
Do. do.
do. do.
Common-
Plain Col-
These are economical
wealth
ours, 2/1 1
4-ply wools, of a
Knitting
per lb.
thinner make than
and Ma-
Fancy Col-
the " Rose Wheel-
iine Fin-
ours and
ing " described
gering,
Mixtures,
above, and are spe-
4-ply.
3/5 per lb.
cially recommended
for hard wear. They
are suitable for
strong socks, stock-
ings, school gloves,
etc.
Do. do.
do. do.
Federation
Plain Col-
This wool is suitable
Knitting.
ours, 3/3
per lb.
Fancy Col-
ours and
Mixtures,
3/9 per lb.
for purposes similar
to the two last-
mentioned yarns, but
is more closely twis-
ted, and has a less
hairy finish.
46
KNITTING -WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
Maker.
Quality.
Use.
Messrs. John
Paton, Son &
Co., Ltd., Alloa,
Scotland
Do. do.
The wools manu-
factured by this
firm are usually
known as the
" Alloa Knitting
Wcols."
Do. do.
Do. do.
Do. do.
Messrs. J. & J.
Baldwin &
Partners, Ltd.,
Halifax, York-
shire, England.
do.
do.
do.
do.
do.
do.
do.
do.
This Firm is noted
for its " Beehive
Knitting Wools "
and its " White
Heather Wools."
Rose Fin-
gering
(4-ply).
Super Fin-
gering
Worsted
(2, 3, 4, and
5-ply).
Soft Knit-
ting Wool.
Rose Petti-
coat or
Sports
Wool.
Rug Wool
(2-ply
Cable
Twisted).
Beehive
Scotch
Fingering
(2, 3, 4, and
5-ply).
Plain Col-
ours, 3/11
per lb.
Fancy Col-
ours and
Mixtures,
4/5 per lb,
Plain Col-
ours, 4/9
per lb.
Fancy Col-
ours, 5/3
per lb.
8d. per 2-oz.
packet.
Plain Col-
ours, 3/9
per lb.
Fancy Col-
ours, 4/5
per lb.
2/8 per lb.
Plain Col-
ours, 5/-
per lb.
Fancy Col-
ours and
Mixtures,
5/3 per lb.
This is a softer quality
than the- " Federa-
tion Knitting," and
is suitable for vests,
petticoats, scarfs,
shawls, etc.
This wool is more
expensive than those
mentioned above,
but has a smoother,
softer finish, and is
therefore suitable for
fine underwear, ba-
bies' garments, and
articles where a dain-
ty finish is required.
This is a fine, closely-
twisted wool, with a
smooth finish, simi-
lar to Andalusian
wools. It is suitable
for the same pur-
poses as the " Super
Fingering Worsted."
This is a thick, soft
wool, suitable, as its
name implies, for
knitted coats. Being
warm and light, it is
also suitable for mak-
ing rugs for cots,
perambulators, etc.
This is a glossy, hard-
wearing rug wool of
excellent quality.
This is a soft, highly
finished fingering of
excellent quality. It
is suitable for socks,
stockings, gloves,
and soft underwear,
as it does not irritate
the skin.
WOOLCRAFT.
47'
Maker.
Name of Wool.
Quality.
Use.
Messrs. J. & J.
Baldwin &
Partners, Ltd.,
Halifax, York-
shire, England.
Do. do.
Do. do.
This Firm is noted
for its " Beehive
Knitting Wools "
and its " White
Heather Wools."
do.
do.
do.
do.
Do.
Do.
Do.
do.
do.
do.
Do. do.
do.
do.
do.
do.
do.
do.
do.
do.
Beehive
Petticoat
Wool.
Beehive
Double
Knitting.
Beehive
Vest Wool
(2, 3, and
4-ply).
Beehive
Soft Knit-
ting (4-ply)
Beehive
Eider,
Ivorine
and Ice
Wool
(2-ply).
Beehive
Shetland
(2-ply).
Beehive
Andalusian
(4-ply).
White Hea-
ther Scotch
Fingering
(2, 3, 4, and
5-ply).
White Hea-
ther Vest
Wool (2, 3,
and 4-ply).
3/11 per lb.
4/6 per lb.
Plain Col-
ours, 8|d.
per 2-oz.
packet.
Fancy Col-
lours, 9£d.
per 2-oz.
packet.
5/9 per lb.
These are stout wools,
specially adapted for
warm garments, and.
articles for sports'
purposes.
This is soft to the-
touch, and washes,
splendidly.
This wool is well/
known for its high
quality and soft fin-
ish. It is a closely-
twisted 4-ply wool,,
suitable for purposes
where a smooth, fine-
finish is required.
These are fine wools,,
suitable for dainty
shawls and wraps.
Both 4/6 These are soft, fine-
per lb.
Plain Col-
ours, 4/3
per lb.
Fancy Col-
ours and
Mixtures,
4/6 per lb.
3/11 per lb.
wools suitable for
babies' garments,.
and dainty articles
generally.
This is a hard-wearing,
wool, suitable for
purposes similar to-
the " Beehive Scotch
Fingering." It is,,
however, less soft in
finish.
This is a useful vest
wool, but less highly
finished than, the-
Beehive vest wool.
48
KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
Maker.
Name of Wool.
Quality.
Price.
Use.
. Messrs. J. & J.
Baldwin &
Partners, Ltd. ,
Halifax, York-
shire, England.
wMessrs. Baldwin
>'■' & Walker, Ltd.,
West Croft
Mills, King
Cross, Halifax,
England.
Do.
do.
Do.
Do.
do.
Do. do.
This Firm is noted
for its " Beehive
Knitting Wools"
and its " White
Heather Wools."
This Firm is spe-
cially noted for
its " Ladyship
Wools."
do.
do.
do.
do.
do.
do.
do
do.
Beehive
Rug Wool
(2-ply
Cable
Twisted).
Turkey
Rug Wool
(6-ply
Plain
Twist).
L adyship
Scotch
Fingering
(2, 3, 4, and
5-ply).
La d y s h i p
Fingering
(3 and 4-
piy)-
Ladys hip
Shetland
Wool.
L adyship
Andalusian
Wool.
Ladyship
Vest Wool
(2, 3, and
4-ply).
2/4 per lb.
2/2 per lb.
Plain Col-
ours, 4/6
per lb.
Fancy Col-
ours, 4/1 1
per lb.
4/11 per lb.
5/2 per lb.
5/- per lb.
5/6 per lb.
The Beehive Rug
Wool (i.e., the Cable-
twisted variety) is
thicker and more
glossy than the Tur-
key Rug Wool. Both
varieties are sold in
4-oz. packets.
This is a high-class
Scotch Fingering,
which combines
hard-wearing quali-
ties with softness of
finish. The finer
qualities are suitable
for shawls, and warm
light articles.
This is a stouter and
more elastic wool
than the Scotch Fin-
gering, and is suit-
able for socks, stock-
ings, petticoats, etc.,
where hard wear is
required.
This is a closely twis-
ted make of Shetland
wool, with a fine,
smooth finish. It is
useful for fine shawls
and babies' gar-
ments.
This is a finely finished
Andalusian wool,
suitable for dainty
articles.
This is a soft vest wool
with an exception-
ally fine finish.
WOOLCRAFT.
49
Maker.
Name of Wool.
Quality.
Price.
Use.
Messrs. Baldwin
This Firm is spe-
Primrose
4/3 per lb.
This is a stout, hard-
& Walker, Ltd.,
cially noted for
Petticoat
wearing wool, with
West Croft
its " Ladyship
Wool
a hairy finish. It is
Mills, King
Wools."
(4-ply).
suitable for coats.
Cross, Halifax,
woollen hats, bon-
England.
nets, jerseys, etc.
Do. do.
do. do.
Distaff
Plain Col-
This is a strong, cordy
Knitting
ours, 3/11
yarn for hard usage.
Wool
per lb.
It is suitable for
(4-ply).
Fancy Col-
ours and
Mixtures,
4/6 per lb.
hard-wearing hose,
school gloves, and
scarfs, etc.
GERMAN WOOLS.
Many imported wools in common use are manufactured in Germany, notable
among these being the " Berlin " wools.
Single Berlin Wool is a fleecy fourfold wool, suitable where warmth and softness
are desired.
Double Berlin Wool is a thicker eightfold wool, of a similar texture and finish
to the Single Berlin.
An average price for both the above wools is 4s. 6d. per lb. for plain colours,
and a little more for fancy colours.
Most of the British wools previously described arfe also duplicated in German
makes, but as these are no cheaper in general than the corresponding English
wools, it has not been thought necessary to describe them in detail.
4— (815B)
STANDARD I and UPPER INFANTS.
i. DOLL'S MUFF KNITTED ON BONE NEEDLES.
To Teach (1) Casting-on, (2) Plain Knitting on Bone Needles, and (3.
Casting-off.
Materials. — Two Bone Needles — size 6. Rather less than i oz. of 4-ply wool.
Quantity required for a class of 50 = 5£ oz. . Cost of same at 3s. 1 Id. per lb. =
Is. 4£d. (For cheaper varieties of 4-ply wool and other qualities, see under
Woolcraft.) If No. 6 Knitting Cotton at 2s. per lb. be employed, the quantity
required will be 1\ oz., and the total cost ll|d.
Fig. 41. Doll's Muff Knitted on Bone Needles.
50
STANDARD I AND UPPER INFANTS.
51
Instructions. — Cast on ten stitches, or as many as will produce knitting haying
a, width of 2 in. without stretching. (Teach the first method of casting-on described
in the General Instructions at the commencement of the book.) Work a strip of plain
knitting 3£ in. long. Knit every stitch of the first row, and in all succeeding
rows slip the first stitch and knit the remaining stitches. Cast off loosely. (Teach
the first method of casting-off , described in the ' General Instructions.)
Making up. — Double the strip, so that the cast-off edge lies over the cast-on
edge. Oversew these edges neatly together, using a darning needle, and the same
kind of wool as that of which the muff was knitted. Suspend the muff by narrow
ribbon of the required length. This may be tied in a bow, as shown in Fig. 41, to
obviate the difficulty of joining the ends of the ribbon neatly.
N.B.— The above muff, and all the doll's garments described in the book,
have been made to fit a doll 16 in. high. (See General Instructions.)
Fig. 42. Doll's Scarf Knitted on Bone Needles.
52
KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
2(A). DOLL'S SCARF KNITTED ON BONE NEEDLES.
Practice in Casting-on, Plain Knitting on Bone Needles, and Casting-off.
Materials.— Two Bone Needles— size 8. About A oz. of 4-ply wool or other
wool of a suitable thickness. Quantity required for a class of 50 = 9 J oz. Cost of
same at 3s. lid. per lb. = 2s. 4£d. (For cheaper varieties of 4-ply wool and other
qualities, see under Woolcraft.) If No. 6 Knitting Cotton at 2s. a lb. be
employed, the quantity required will be 12 oz., and the total cost Is. 6d.
Instructions.— Cast on eight stitches, or as many as will produce knitting 1£ in.
wide without stretching. Work a strip of plain knitting 12 in. long. Knit every
stitch of the first row, and in all succeeding rows slip the first stitch and knit the
remaining stitches. Cast off loosely.
Making up. — Gather up the ends of the scarf, and attach a tassel to each.
(For method of making tassels, see General Instructions.)
2(b). INSTRUCTIONS FOR FULL-SIZED SCARF ON BONE
NEEDLES, TO FIT THE CHILD.
3 oz. of 4-ply wool required. Cost at 3s. lid. per lb. = 9d.
Cast on 42 stitches, or as many as will produce knitting 7 in. wide without
stretching. Knit a length of 1J yds. in the same manner as. described under Doll's
Scarf. Make the tassels fuller, and from longer strips of wool, so that they will
be in proportion to the size of the scarf.
3. DOLL'S SHAWL KNITTED ON BONE NEEDLES.
• Further practice in Casting-on, Plain Knitting, and Casting-off. Larger
f number of stitches employed.
Materials. — Two Bone Needles — size 7. J oz. of 4-ply wool, or other wool of
a suitable thickness. Quantity required for a class of 50 = 12J oz. Cost of same
Fig. 43. Doll's Shawl Knitted on Bone Needles.
STANDARD I AND UPPER INFANTS.
53
at 3s. 1 Id. per lb. = 3s. Id. (For cheaper varieties of 4-ply wool and other qualities,
see under Woolcraft.) If No. 6 Knitting Cotton be employed, the quantity
required will be 16 oz., and the cost 2s.
Instructions. — Cast on 24 stitches, or as many as will give a width of 5 in. without
stretching. Work a strip of plain knitting 7 J in. long. Knit every stitch in the first
row, and in all succeeding rows slip the first stitch and knit the remaining stitches.
Cast off loosely. Make a single fringe {see Fig. 43) all round the edge of the shawl, as
described under General Instructions.
N.B. — Instructions for knitting a full-sized shawl in a more difficult pattern
are given under Standard V Syllabus.
4. DOLL'S SCARF ON STEEL NEEDLES.
Use of Steel Needles introduced, and Chain Edge taught.
Materials. — Two Steel Needles — size 14. J oz. of 4-ply wool, or other wool of
a suitable thickness. Quantity required for a class of 50 = 12J oz. Cost of same
at 3s. lid. per lb. = 3s. Id. (For cheaper varieties of 4-ply wool and other quali-
ties, see under Woolcraft.) If No. 6 Knitting Cotton be employed the quantity
required will be 1 lb., and the cost about 2s.
Fig. 44. Doll's Scarf on Steel Needles
54 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
Instructions. — Cast on 10 stitches, or as many as will give a width of 1 or 1J in.
Work a strip of plain knitting 12 or 13 in. long. Knit every stitch of the first row,
and in all succeeding rows slip the first stitch so as to produce chain edge (see Fig. 44
and General Instructions), and knit the remaining stitches. Cast off. Make a
fringe at each end of the scarf, as described under General Instructions at the
beginning of the book.
5. ROLLED PINCUSHION.
Second Exercise in Plain Knitting on Steel Needles, with Chain Edge.
Materials. — Two Steel or Bone Needles — size 10. J oz. 4-ply wool. Quantity
required for class of 50 = \2\ oz. Cost of same at 4s. 6d. per lb. = 3s. 6Jd. (For
cheaper wools, see under Woolcraft.) If No. 6 Knitting Cotton be employed,
the quantity required will be 19 oz., and the cost of the same at 2s. per lb. = 2s. 4£d.
Fig. 45. Rolled Pincushion.
STANDARD I AND UPPER INFANTS. 55
Instructions. — Cast on 16 stitches, or as many as will produce a width of 2| in.
without stretching. (Employ second method of casting-on given in General
Instructions.) Work 8 or 9 in. of plain knitting with chain edge. Cast off.
Making up. — Make a crocheted chain, from 16 to 20 in. in length, for suspending
the pincushion, and sew the two ends of the chain together to form a circle. Now
roll the strip of knitting round the part of the chain where the join occurs, so as
to produce the cylindrical shape shown in Fig. 45. Sew the loose end of the strip
neatly down on to the knitting beneath it.
6. QUILT FOR DOLL'S BED.
Third Exercise in Plain Knitting on Steel Needles, with Chain Edge.
Materials. — Two Steel Needles — size 13. 1£ Balls of *' O-So-Silkie," Medium
Size (2d. per ball), 1J Balls of " Coton Perle D.M.C.," No. 5 (2d. per ball), or \ oz.
of Knitting Cotton, No. 6. Quantity of Knitting Cotton for class of 50 =
1 lb. 9 oz. Cost of same at 2s. per lb. = 3s. 1 id.
Fig. 46. Quilt for Doll's Bed.
Instructions. — The Quilt is made from three strips, each of which is knitted as
follows : Cast on 14 stitches, or as many as will give a width of about If in. without
stretching. Work a strip of plain knitting 7 in. in length. Knit every stitch of the
first row, and in all succeeding rows slip the first stitch in the manner described to
produce chain edge and knit the remaining stitches. Cast off.
Making up. — Sew the three strips neatly together, as in Fig. 46, thus affording
practice in Oversewing. Put a double fringe all round the quilt, as described
under General Instructions.
56
KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
7. PURSE WITH NECK-CORD FOR CHILD'S OWN WEAR.
Fourth Exercise in Plain Knitting on Steel Needles. Plaiting introduced
for the Cord.
Materials.— Two Steel Needles— size 14. A oz. No. 6 Knitting Cotton of any
colour. Wool may be employed if preferred. Quantity of Knitting Cotton
required for class of 50 = 1 lb. Cost of same = 2s.
Instructions. — Cast on 20 stitches, or as many as will give a width of 2\ in.
without stretching. Work a strip of plain knitting 8 in. long. Knit every stitch
of the first row, and in all succeeding rows slip the first stitch and knit the remaining
stitches. Cast off loosely.
Fig. 47. Purse with Neck-cord for Child's own Wear.
Making up. — Fold up the bottom edge of the strip to form a bag, leaving a flap
2 \ in. deep uncovered at the top. Oversew neatly up the side-seams, and turn
the bag inside out. Turn in the top corners of the flap to meet each other, thus
producing the pointed shape shown in Fig. 47. Turn down the flap to ascertain
the position for the button, and sew this into its place. Make a small loop of plaited
knitting cotton, and sew it on to the under-edge of the point of the flap for fastening
purposes. An alternative and easier method for fastening the purse is by means
of a press-stud (20 a Id.).
Make a plait of knitting cotton about 34 in. long, and attach the ends of this
strongly to the under-edge of the flap, for suspending the purse round the neck.
STANDARD I AND UPPER INFANTS.
57
Both the loop for fastening the purse, and the cord for suspension round the neck,
may be made from a crocheted chain if preferred.
N.B. — This and the following exercise afford practice in the same type of
knitting. Children may be allowed, therefore, to exercise their choice as to which
purse they would like to make.
8. PURSE WITH HANDLES FOR CHILD'S OWN USE.
Fifth Exercise in Plain Knitting on Steel Needles. Method of making
a Crocheted Chain taught.
Materials. — Two Steel Needles — size 14. J oz. No. 6 Knitting Cotton of any
colour. Wool may be employed if preferred. Quantity of Knitting Cotton
required for class of 50 = 13 oz. Cost of same at 2s. per lb. = Is. 7Jd.
Fig. 48. Purse with Handles for Child's own Use.
Instructions. — Cast on 20 stitches, or as many as will give a width of 1\ in.
without stretching. Work a strip of plain knitting 7 in. long. Knit every stitch
of the first row, and in all succeeding rows slip the first stitch and knit the remaining
stitches. Cast off loosely.
Making up. — Take the bottom edge of the strip and fold it upwards until it
lies exactly over the top edge, thus forming a bag. Oversew the two sides together
neatly, leaving 1 in. at the top of each side unsewn (see Fig. 48) . Turn the purse on
to the right side. Make a crocheted chain of knitting cotton 14 in. long. Thread a
large darning needle, bodkin, or raffia needle with this chain, and run it round the
purse at the bottom of the loose flaps left at the top. Sew the loose ends of the
cord neatly together, and draw up the top of the purse, so that a loop of the
cord is left at each side to form a handle.
58 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
9. KNITTED IRON-HOLDER.
Sixth Exercise in Plain Knitting.
Materials.— Two Steel Needles— sizel4. f oz. of No. 6 Knitting Cotton of any
colour. Cloth or flannel for padding, and sateen for lining. Quantity of Knitting
Cotton required for class of 50 = 1 lb. 3 oz. Cost of same at 2s. per lb. = 2s. 4£d.
Fig. 49. Knitted Iron-holder.
Instructions. — The cover for the Iron-holder is made of three strips, each of which
is knitted as follows : Cast on 14 stitches, or as many as will give a width of 1J in.
unstretched. Work a strip of knitting 5J in. long. Knit every stitch of the first
row, and in all succeeding rows slip the first stitch and knit the remaining stitches.
Cast off.
This exercise can be done as " Community " work, three children knitting a
strip each to form one iron-holder.
Making up. — Sew the three strips together to form a square (Fig. 49) . Place
on this square, layers of cloth, flannel, etc., to form padding for the Holder, and on
top of these place a lining of sateen, print, or calico. Turn in the raw edges of
the lining, and oversew the folded edges of the lining to the sides of the knitted
square.
N.B. — A dish-cloth for Mother, a blackboard pad for Teacher, or a
polishing pad for furniture or metal, are articles of a similar nature which may be
made at this stage.
STANDARD I AND UPPER INFANTS. 59
io. PINCUSHION COVER.
Seventh Exercise in Plain Knitting. Sewing on of Cord for Decorative
Purposes introduced.
Materials. — Two Steel Needles — size 12. J oz. of No. 6 Knitting Cotton, or
\ ball of " O-So-Silkie," Medium Size (2d. a ball). The cover shown in the illus-
tration is knitted from " O-So-Silkie." Quantity of Knitting Cotton required for
class of 50 = 12J oz. Cost of same at 2s. per lb. = Is. 7d.
Fig. 50. Pincushion Cover.
Instructions. — The Pincushion Cover consists of two squares, each of which is
knitted as follows : Cast on 20 stitches, or as many as will produce a width of 3£ in.
without stretching. Work a square of plain knitting ; knit every stitch of the first
row, and in all succeeding rows slip the first stitch and knit the remaining stitches.
Cast off.
Making up. — Place the second square over the first. Oversew the edges of the
two squares together round three sides, and then turn the cover on to the right
side. Insert the square pincushion, which may consist of a white' calico cover,
stuffed with any cuttings or frayings from the children's work. Oversew the
edges of the fourth side together after the insertion of the cushion.
Now decorate the pincushion by sewing round the edges a plaited chain. Form
the chain into a loop at each corner, as shown in Fig. 50. The chain should be
about 23 in. long, and made from six threads of " O-So-Silkie," two threads going
together to form one strand of the plait.
•60 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
ii. WASHING GLOVE.
Larger Number of Stitches Employed.
Materials.— Two Bone Needles— size 9. J oz. Milford's White Knitting Cotton,
No. 6 (three threads). A 2-oz. ball of this cotton may be obtained for 3d., and
three balls, or 6 oz., will knit eight gloves at a cost of 9d.
Fig. 51. Washing Glove.
Instructions. — Cast on 30 stitches, or as many as will produce knitting 5J in.
wide without stretching. (Employ second method of casting-on described under
General Instructions.) Work 15 in. of plain knitting with chain edge. Cast off.
Making up. — Fold the strip into halves, as shown in Fig. 51, and oversew
neatly up the two side-seams. Turn the glove on to the right side.
12. DOLL'S MUFF WITH KNITTED NECK SUPPORT.
to teach the method of knitting with a section of the stitches, while
the Others are Temporarily Passed on to Wool to be Picked up
and Knitted Later.
Materials. — Two Bone Needles — size 9. J oz. of 4-ply wool. Quantity required
for class of 50 = 12J oz. Cost of same at 3s. lid. per lb. = 3s. Id. (For cheaper
wool, see under Woolcraft.)
STANDARD I AND UPPER INFANTS. 61
If No. 6 Knitting Cotton be employed, the amount required for a class of
50 will be 17 oz., and the total cost of the same, 2s. 1 Jd.
Instructions. — Cast on 14 stitches, or as many as will produce knitting having a
width of 2£ in. without stretching. Work 3£ in. of plain knitting with chain edge.
Now knit seven stitches (i.e., half-way along the needle), and slip the remaining
Fig. 52. Doll's Muff with Knitted Neck Support.
stitches on to a darning needle threaded with wool. Draw the needle through gently,
leaving the stitches supported by the wool. Unthread the needle, and tie the two-
ends of the wool securely together. The stitches will thus be out of the way until
they are required, and there will be no fear of their dropping. Continue to work
plain knitting on the remaining seven stitches, until a narrow strip 7 in. long has been
knitted with chain edge as before. Cast off. The diagram in Fig. 53 shows the
shape of the knitting laid flat before the muff is made up. Now slip the stitches-
62
KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
which were supported on the wool on to a knitting-needle and draw out the wool.
Knit on these seven stitches a strip 6 in. long, also with chain edge. Cast on.
6°
\!<
D
\
c.
^
B
7
i
G H
t F
<— -at" ->
Fig. 53. Doll's Muff with Knitted Neck Support.
Making up. — Fold EF to GH and sew firmly down. Sew AB (the top edge of
the shorter strip) to CD (a section of the inside edge of the longer strip). Turn
the muff on to the other side, and it will be found that the shape shown in Fig. 52
has been produced.
13. DOLL'S WOOLLEN SHOE.
Casting off a Section of the Stitches taught.
Materials. — Two Steel Needles — size 14. -J- oz. of 4-ply wool, or other wool of
suitable thickness. Quantity required for a class of 50 = 6J oz. Cost of same
at 3s. lid. per lb. = Is. 6 £d. (For cheaper varieties of 4-ply wool and other qualities,
see under Woolcraft.)
STANDARD I AND UPPER INFANTS.
63
Instructions. — Cast on 20 stitches, or as many as will give a width of 2\ in.
without' stretching. There will be about 38 or 40 rows. (For method of counting
rows, see General Instructions^ Knit every stitch of the first row, and in all
succeeding rows slip the first stitch and knit the remaining stitches.
Fig. 54. Doll's Woollen Shoe.
Now cast off 12 stitches, that is, along the line AB, shown in Fig. 55, which
illustrates the shape of the shoe opened out before it is made up. This will leave
eight stitches on the needle for knitting the toe of the shoe. Knit three-quarters of
an inch on these eight stitches. This will be about 12 rows. Cast off, producing
the edge CD.
<■- IX"- -~>
Fig. 55. Doll's Woollen Shoe.
Ankle-band. — Cast on 24 stitches, or as many as will give a width of 3 in., for
knitting the ankle-band. Knit about 6 rows of plain knitting, and then cast off.
Making up. — Sew the short edge CD to the portion of the cast-on edge which
comes opposite to it, i.e., to EF. Now flatten the work, so that the narrow portion
64 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
of the knitting forms the centre of the toe-piece. Sew together the two edges at the
toe, drawing the seam up slightly at the same time, in order to round the corners.
Sew up the seam at the heel, making a pleat at the bottom of the seam, in order
to shape the shoe to fit the heel. (See Fig. 54.) Sew the centre of the ankle-strap
to the centre of the back of the shoe. The ankle-strap may be fastened by means
of : (1) A loop and button, (2) a press-stud, or (3) tying with a crocheted chain.
Decorate the toe of the shoe with a bow of ribbon or a woollen pompom.
N.B. — The sewing together of this shoe is too difficult for Standard I children,
and should be done for them by the older girls.
14. BABY'S KNITTED SHOE.
Eighth Exercise in Plain Knitting. More Advanced Example of Casting-
off a Section of the Stitches.
Materials. — Two Steel Needles — -size 14. 1§ balls of " O-So-Silkie," Medium size,
will make one pair. Cost at 2d. per ball = 3 £d. If economy is important, a pah-
can be made from 1 oz. of No. 6 Knitting Cotton at a cost of l£d.
Fig. 56. Baby's Knitted Shoe.
Instructions. — Cast on 38 stitches, or as many as will give a width of 4 J in.
without stretching. (Employ second method described under General Instructions,
as this produces a firm edge.) Work 4J in. of plain knitting. Knit every stitch
of the first row, and in all the succeeding rows slip the first stitch and knit the
remaining stitches. Cast off 20 stitches, leaving 18 on the needle for knitting the
top or toe of the shoe. Knit 1 J in. on these 18 stitches and then cast off.
Cast on 46 stitches for the ankle-strap, or as many as will give a width of
6 in. Knit eight rows of plain knitting, and cast off.
Making up. — The method of making up and fastening the shoe is exactly the
same as that employed in the Doll's Woollen Shoe, given in the preceding exercise.
Decorate the toe with a bow of ribbon or a silk pompom.
STANDARD I AND UPPER INFANTS.
65
15. KNITTED TOY REINS.
Plain Knitting employed for Article of more Difficult Construction.
Materials. — Two Bone Needles — size 8. 1 oz. of 4-ply wool or other wool of
suitable thickness. If wool at 2s. 8d. per lb. be employed, the cost of one set of
reins will be 2d. (For other qualities of 4-ply wool, see under Woolcraft.) If
No. 6 Knitting Cotton at 2s. a lb. be employed, the quantity required will be 1£
oz., and the cost a little less than 2d.
Fig. 57. Knitted Toy Reins.
Instructions. — Strip for Waist. — Cast on 12 stitches, or as many as will give
a width of 2\ in. without stretching. Work a strip of plain knitting about 22 in.
in length. Knit every stitch of the first row, and in all the succeeding rows slip the
first stitch and knit the remaining stitches. Cast off. (To determine the exact
5— (815E)
66 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
length required, measure the strip round the waist of the child for whose wear the
reins are intended.)
Strip for Reins. — Cast on eight stitches, or as many as will give a width of
1J in. Knit a second strip of plain knitting about 36 in. long. Cast off.
Making up. — Sew little bells on to the front of the strip for the waist, as shown
in Fig. 57. Let the strip of knitting be fastened round the waist by means of a
press-stud strongly sewn on.
Attach the ends of the longer strip to the waistband, at points 5 in.
from each end of the latter. Sew these ends on to the waistband very strongly.
N.B. — As this is a large piece of knitting for a Standard I child to undertake
alone, the teacher may, if she wishes, let several children co-operate in the work,
each one knitting a strip of about 6 or 8 in. in length. The strips may then be
joined together neatly to form the completed reins.
16. KNITTED TOY REINS (ALTERNATIVE SHAPE).
Further Practice in Casting off a Section of the Stitches.
Materials. — Two Bone Needles — size 8. 1J oz. of 4-ply wool. Cost of same
at 3s. lid. per lb. = 4d. (For cheaper wools, see under Woolcraft.) If No. 6
Knitting Cotton at 2s. a lb. be employed, the amount required will be 1J oz., and
the cost 2Jd.
Instructions. — These reins consist of a broad piece of knitting which fits across
the chest, two narrower strips to fit round the. arms, and a long strip for the reins.
Strip for Chest. — Cast on 14 stitches, or as many as will produce knitting
having a width of 2\ in. without stretching. Employ the second method of casting
on (see General Instructions). Work 10J in. of plain knitting with chain edge.
The exact length required must be determined by measuring the child for whose
-wear the reins are intended.
Strip for First Armhole. — Cast off 7 stitches, thus producing the edge AB
shown in Fig. 59. Continue to work plain knitting with chain edge on the remaining
7 stitches, i.e., along BC, until a length of about 11 in. has been knitted. Cast off.
Strip for Second Armhole. — Pick up 7 loops at the end of the chest strap
where the stitches were first cast on, i.e., along DE in Fig. 59. Commence to knit
on these 7 stitches, knitting along the first row with double wool, except for the
first stitch, which will be knitted with single wool. Do plain knitting with chain
edge, until 11 in. has been knitted. Cast off.
Long Strip for Reins. — Cast on 10 stitches, or as many as will give a width
of about If- in. Again employ second method of casting on. Work a strip of plain
knitting with chain edge about 40 in. long.
Making up. — Sew FG, the cast-off end of the first armhole strip, to AB, which
is the edge of the chest strap where the seven stitches were cast off. This completes
one armhole.
Similarly sew JH, the cast-off end of the second armhole strip, to KE to form
the other armhole. Sew each end of the long strip for the reins to the centre of
the outside edge of an armhole strip, as shown in Fig. 58. Do this sewing very
strongly, as it will have to withstand great strain.
STANDARD I AND UPPER INFANTS. 67
Note.—(\) For carrying this out as " Community " work, see under previous
exercise.
(2) Either Exercise 15 or 16 can be shortened and used as a support for a baby
in its first walking lessons.
Fig. 58. Knitted Toy Reins. (Alternative Shape.)
_a
1i
~J
.,,. >c4 iq^.. __ 7Dt ..„_ n«
Fig. 59. Knitted Toy Reins. (Alternative Shape!,
STANDARD II.
I. KNITTED BOOK MARKER WITH FRINGED ENDS.
Purling taught.
Materials. — Two Steel Needles — size 14. \ ball of " O-So-Silkie," Medium
size, at 2d. per ball, or \ oz. of No. 6 Knitting Cotton. Quantity of Knitting
Cotton required for class of 50 = 12 \ oz. Cost of same at 2s. per lb. = Is. 7d.
Instructions. — Cast on 12 stitches, or as many as will give a width, of 1J in.
without stretching. Knit two rows and purl two rows alternately, until a strip 9 or
10 in. long has been knitted. (Full instructions for purling are given under General
Instructions. Demonstrate to class with large, wooden needles and rug wool.)
After the first row, slip the first stitch at the commencement of each row. Cast off.
Put a fringe at each end of the marker, as described under General Instructions.
Fig. 60. Knitted Book Marker with Fringed Ends.
2. COVER FOR NEEDLE-BOOK.
Second Exercise in Purling.
Materials.— Two Steel Needles— size 12. \ Ball of " O-So-Silkie," Medium size,
at 2d. per ball, or J oz. of No. 6 Knitting Cotton. Quantity of knitting Cotton
for class of 50 = 12£ oz. Cost of same at 2s. per lb. = Is. 7d.
Instructions. — Cast on 16 stitches, or as many as will give a width of 3 in without
stretching. Purl a strip of knitting 12 in. long. Purl every stitch of the first row,.
68
STANDARD II.
69
and in all succeeding rows slip the first stitch purl-wise and purl the remaining
stitches. Cast off.
Making up. — The stiff case of thick card in which the flannel for the needles
is fixed, may be made by Standard IV boys. Each cover consists of a piece of
card measuring 3 in. by 2\ in. Join these two covers together down the back
by strips of paper or linen, one on the outside of the case, and one on the inside.
Let the flannel on which the needles will be placed measure 2J in. by 4J in., and
neatly overcast it all the way round. Join the knitting together as follows to
form the cover : Fold each end of the strip inwards towards the middle, till the
two ends almost meet in the centre of the work. Sew the top and bottom edges
Fig. 61. Cover for Needle-book.
of each turned-down flap to the top and bottom edges of the under-part of the
knitting. Right and left-hand pockets will thus be formed, into which the cardboard
covers of the needle-book can be slipped in turn.
When the knitted cover has been slipped on, the flannel may be secured in the
cover by sewing it in with narrow ribbon. A large darning needle will take the
ribbon quite easily, and can be passed through the back of the cardboard and
knitted covers. Finish off the needle-book by tying the ribbon in a bow at the
back.
70 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
3(A). ANTIMACASSAR FOR DOLL'S HOUSE.
Knitting One Row and Purling One Row introduced.
Materials.— Two Steel Needles — size 12. £ BaU of " O-So-Silkie," Medium
size, at 2d. per ball, or £ oz. of No. 6 Knitting Cotton. Quantity of Knitting Cotton
for class of 50 = 8J oz. Cost of same at 2s. per lb. = Is. OJd.
Fig. 62. Antimacassar for Doll's House.
Instructions. — Cast on 16 stitches, or as many as will give a width of 2J in.
unstretched. Knit one row and purl one row alternately, until a strip 4 in. long has
been knitted. After the first row, always slip the first stitch at the commencement
of each row. Cast off.
Make a double fringe at each end, as described under General Instructions at
the beginning of the book.
3(B). INSTRUCTIONS FOR FULL-SIZED ANTIMACASSAR FOR
HOUSEHOLD USE.
Materials.— About 12 balls of " O-So-Silkie," at 2 balls for 3£d. required.
Cost = Is. 9d.
STANDARD II.
71
Instructions. — A full-sized Antimacassar can be made by knitting about 6 strips
like the one described above for a Doll's House, each one being, however, about
26 in. in length. Neatly join these strips down their length, and fringe the ends of
the finished Antimacassar.
Fig. 63. Doll's Sofa Rug.
4. DOLL'S SOFA RUG.
Method of Joining Wool taught.
Materials. — Two Steel Needles — size 12. \ oz. of Single Berlin Wool or 4-ply
wool of two shades. Total quantity for a class of 50 = 12J oz. Cost of same at
3s. lid. per lb. = 3s. Id. (For cheaper varieties of 4-ply wool, and other qualities,
see under Woolcraft.)
Instructions. — Cast on, with the lighter shade of wool, 20 stitches, or as many
72
KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
as will give a width of 3 in. without stretching. Knit 11 rows of plain knitting,
slipping the first stitch in such a manner as to produce chain edge. (See General
Instructions.)
Knit along the 12th row, until five stitches from the end are reached. Break off
the wool, leaving an end about 5 in. long. Join on with the darker shade in the
manner described under General Instructions, working four stitches with the double
wool, and the last stitch with single wool of the new colour. (The teacher must
demonstrate to the class the method of joining with large wooden needles and
rug wool of two contrasting colours.)
Knit 11 rows of plain knitting with the second colour.
Knit along the 12th row, until 5 stitches from the end are reached, and then
join on with the first shade of wool again, in the manner described above. Continue
to knit strips of alternate colours in this manner, until about 6 in. of knitting
has been done. Cast off.
Fringe the ends of the rug, as sho«n in Fig. 63. (See General Instructions.)
5. DOLL'S DUTCH BONNET.
More Difficult Exercise in Knitting and Purling Alternate Rows.
Materials. — Two Steel Needles — size 12. \ oz. of 4-ply wool, or other wool of
suitable thickness. Quantity required for class of 50 = 12 \ oz. Cost of same
at 3s. 8d. per lb. = 2s. 10£d. (For other varieties of 4-ply wool, see under
Woolcraft.)
Fig. 64. Doll's Dutch Bonnet.
STANDARD II.
73
Instructions. — Cast on 40 stitches, or as many as will produce a width of 6£ in.
without stretching. Knit two rows of plain knitting. Now knit one row and purl
one row alternately for eight rows. Knit three more plain rows to make a natural
fold where the flap turns back.
Purl one row and knit one row alternately until 3J in. has been knitted to form
the part to fit the head. Cast off.
Making up. — Sew up the back seam of the bonnet on the wrong side, drawing
it up slightly, in order to shape it to the back of the head. Turn the bonnet on to
the right side, and fold back the flap. The plain sides of both the flap and the
bonnet itself, should now appear uppermost. Make two lengths of crocheted
woollen chain, each 16 in. long. Use these for making looped rosettes and strings
for tying. Attach them to the sides of the bonnet as shown in Fig. 64.
N.B. — Instructions for knitting a Child's Dutch Bonnet in a more decorative
pattern are given under the Standard IV Syllabus.
6. COSY FOR DOLL'S TEAPOT.
Knit Two Purl Two taught.
Materials. — Two Steel Needles — size 13 or 14. \ oz. of Double Berlin Wool,
or Double Fingering. Quantity required for class of 50 = 12J oz. Cost of same
at 3s. 8d. per lb. = 2s. 10£d. (For other qualities of Double Knitting Wool, see
under Woolcraft.)
Fig. 65. Cosy for Doll's Teapot.
74 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
Instructions. — The Cosy is made up of two separate halves, each of which is
knitted as follows : Cast on 20 stitches, or as many as will give a width of 24. in.
unstretched. The number of stitches selected must be divisible by 4. Teach
children how to change from knitting to purling, and vice versa. Let them now
proceed to work ribbed knitting of Knit Two Purl Two until they have completed
a strip 2 \ in. in length. They will slip the first stitch of each row after the first,
exactly as in the case of the strips made entirely of plain knitting or of purling.
Cast off.
Making up. — Place the two halves of the Cosy together, and sew up the side-
seams for J in. from the bottom, and \ in. from the top. This will leave 1J in. in
the middle of each side unsewn, and through these spaces the handle and spout
of the teapot can be passed. Draw up the Cosy \ in. from the top. Decorate the
front of this gathering with a bow of ribbon, a bow of plaited wool, or small pompoms.
Encourage every child who possesses a doll's tea-service of her own to bring
her own teapot, and to estimate the number of stitches required to fit her own
pot.
Instructions for knitting a full-sized Tea Cosy for household use are given
under the Standard III Syllabus, and a crocheted Tea Cosy is described under
the work for Standard VII.
7. DOLL'S VEST-
More Difficult Exercise in Knit Two Purl Two.
Materials. — Two Steel Needles — size 13. •§■ oz. of 4-ply Pink Vest Wool
Quantity required for class of 50 = about 2 lb. Cost of same at 3s. lid. per lb. =
7s. lOd. (For other qualities of 4-ply Vest Wool, see under Woolcraft.)
Instructions. — The vest is made in two halves, each of which is knitted in the
following manner : Cast on 36 stitches, or as many as will give a width of 2$ in. of
ribbed knitting unstretched. The number of stitches selected must be divisible by
4. Work ribbed knitting of Knit Two Purl Two, until a strip of 5 in. has been
done. After the first row, always slip the first stitch of each row. Now cast off all
the stitches except 8 at the end of the row. Continue to knit on these 8
stitches, substituting plain knitting for the ribbed pattern. This strip of plain
knitting forms the shoulder strap for one side of the vest. When 2\ in. of this plain
knitting has been worked, cast off.
Making up. — Place one half of the vest upon the other half, so that one shoulder
strap is at the right-hand side of the work, and the other at the left. Now sew
up the side seams, starting from the bottom. Leave £ in. of ribbed knitting
unsewn at the top of each side-seam, to form part of the armhole. Sew the shoulder
straps into position, carrying the strap attached to the front half of the work to
the back, and the strap from the back to the front.
A simple chain crochet border may be put round the neck and arms by a girl
in a higher standard. The edging shown in the illustration is done as follows : —
One double crochet in first stitch, * chain four, miss one stitch, and double crochet into
the next stitch. Repeat from * right round the neck and arms of vest. Draw
up the neck by running through this chain border a crocheted or plaited chain of
wool. Even smaller pompoms than those shown in Fig. 66 may be attached to
the ends of the chain, or these may be simply finished with knots.
Instructions for knitting a child's vest in a more difficult pattern are given
under the Standard IV Syllabus.
STANDARD II.
75-
Fig. 66. Doll's Vest.
8. DOLL'S KNITTED HAT.
Knit One Purl One taught for Border of Hat.
Materials. — Two Steel Needles — size 13 or 14. f oz. of any 4-ply wool'..
Quantity for class of 50 = 19 oz. Cost of same at 3s. lid. per lb. = 4s. 8d (Foir
cheaper qualities and other varieties of 4-ply wool, see under Woolcraft.)
Fig. 67. Doll's Knitted Hat.
76 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
Instructions.— Cast on 32 stitches, or an even number which will give a width
of 4 in. without stretching. Show children how to do ribbing of Knit One Purl One.
They will quickly see that the method employed is the same as for Knit Two Purl
Two, but that the position of the wool is changed for every stitch instead of for every
two stitches. Let them now proceed to work ribbed knitting of Knit One Purl One
for eight rows, or about $ in. After the first row, always slip the commencing stitch
of each row. This ribbed portion completes the turned up border for the front edge
of the hat.
Change now to plain knitting, still slipping the first stitch of each row. Continue
until 5 in. of plain knitting has been done.
Now commence ribbed knitting again, and do eight rows of Knit On i Purl One
(i.e., about \ in.) to form the turned up border for the back edge of the hat.
Cast off.
N.B. — A pretty pattern may be produced by casting on an odd number of
stitches and employing k. 1 p. 1 throughout.
Making up. — Fold the strip of knitting so that it forms a double square. Over-
sew up the two sides, thus producing a square bag. Turn this bag on to the right
side, and fold up the strips of Knit One Purl One to form the rim or border of the hat.
Now take each top corner of the hat in turn and draw it down to the side on to
the rim which has been turned up. Sew each point down firmly, and over each
sew a little full woollen pompom to form a pretty finish.
Instructions for knitting a full-sized child's hat in two different patterns are
given under the syllabuses for Standards III and IV respectively.
9. DOLL'S JERSEY.
More Difficult Exercise involving Knit One Purl Oxe.
Materials. — Two Steel Needles — size 14. \} t oz. of 4-ply wool. If wool at
2s. 8d. per lb. be employed, the cost of one Jersey will be 2Jd. (For other qualities
of 4-ply wool, see under Woolcraft.)
Instructions. — Only the best knitters should be allowed to attempt a jersey the
size of the one described below, as it involves a large amount of work for a Standard
II child. A jersey of about half the size, to fit a smaller doll, can be planned without
difficulty from the following instructions.
Front of Jersey. — Cast on 36 stitches, or an even number which will give a
width of 3J in. of ribbed knitting, unstretched. The same number of stitches will
be found to produce a width of 4£ in. when the plain knitted part is reached. Work
1 in. of ribbed knitting of Knit One Purl One to form the border of the jersey.
After the first row always slip the commencing stitch of each row. Change to plain
knitting, and work 6 in. of this.
Cast off 9 stitches at the commencement of the row, and continue plain knit-
ting to the end of the needle. At the commencement of the next row, again cast
off 9 stitches, thus leaving in the centre of the knitting 18 stitches not cast off.
On these 18 stitches work ribbed knitting of Knit One Purl O.ie, for the neck-band
of the jersey. Do about \ in. of this ribbing, and then cast off.
Back of Jersey. — Knit this in the same way as the front.
STANDARD II. 77
Sleeves. — Knit each sleeve as follows : Cast on 24 stitches. Do \ in. of Knit
One Purl One ribbing, to form the turned up cuff at the wrist. Change to plain,
knitting, and work 3£ in. more. Cast off loosely.
Making up. — Sew the front and back of the jersey together, commencing at
the bottom of each side-seam ; leave 1£ in. at the top of each side open for the
insertion of the sleeves. Sew up one shoulder seam and the seam at one side q£
Fig. 68. Doll's Jersey.
the neck-band. The shoulder and neck seam at the opposite side will be left
open, so that the jersey may be easily slipped over the doll's head.
Sew up the sleeve seams, and turn the sleeves on to the right side. Sew the
sleeves into the armholes, and turn the jersey on to the right side. Sew on small
pearl buttons and woollen loops for the fastening of shoulder and neck, the woollen
loops being made of fine crocheted chain. An alternative and easier method is
to fasten with press-studs, which may be purchased at 20 a penny.
N.B. — Instructions for knitting a child's jersey are given under the Standard
VI Syllabus.
78
KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
10. DOLL'S KILTED WOOLLEN SKIRT.
:More Difficult Pattern in Knitting and Purling taught.
Materials. — Two Steel Needles — size 14. 1^ oz. of any 4-ply wool. If wool
At 2s. 8d. per lb. be employed, the cost of one Kilt will be about 2£d. (For other
■qualities of 4-ply wool, see under Woolcraft.)
Doll's Kilted Woollen Skirt.
Instructions. — The kilt is knitted in one long strip, the ends of which are joined
-together part of the way, to form the seam down the centre of the back of the kilt.
Cast on 46 stitches, or as many as will produce knitting 5J in. wide without
■stretching.
1st Six Rows. — Knit one row and purl one row alternately, thus finishing with a
purl row.
2nd Six Rows. — Purl one row and knit one row alternately, thus finishing with a
STANDARD II. 79
knitted row. This completes the pattern. Repeat these 12 rows 17 times more, or
until a length of 12 in. has been knitted. Cast off loosely.
Making up. — Sew the two ends of the strip together, except for 1£ in., to form
a circular knitted skirt. Cut out and make up a sateen bodice to fit the doll, and
attach the kilt to this bodice.
ii. DOLL'S KNITTED COAT (f-LENGTH).
Knit One Purl One employed, for Article of more Difficult Construction.
Materials. — Two Steel Needles — size 14. 1| oz. of 4-ply wool, or other wool
of suitable thickness. If wool at 3s. 9d. per lb. be employed, the cost of one coat
will be about 3£d. (For other qualities of 4-ply wool, see under Woolcraft.)
Instructions. — Only the best knitters should be allowed to attempt a coat as
large as the one described below, as it involves a great deal of work for a Standard II
child. A coat of about half the size, to fit a smaller doll, can be planned without
difficulty from the following instructions.
Fronts. — Each of the two fronts is knitted as follows : Cast on 28 stitches, or an
even number which will give a width of 2\ in. of ribbed knitting without stretching.
Work ribbed knitting of Knit One Purl One, until a length of 7 J in. has been
knitted. Slip the commencing stitch of every row after the first. Cast off.
Back. — Cast on 48 stitches, or as many as will give a width of 3| in. of ribbed
knitting unstretched. Knit 1\ in. of Knit One Purl One ribbing. Cast off.
Sleeves. — Each of the sleeves is knitted as follows : Cast on 30 stitches, or as
many as will give ribbed knitting having a width of 2f in. unstretched. Do 4J in. of
ribbed knitting as described under Fronts. Cast off.
Collar. — Cast on 6 stitches, or as many as will give a width of about \ in.
Work b\ in. of plain knitting, and then cast off.
N.B. — In the case of dolls of different sizes, let each girl estimate for herself
the number of stitches required to produce the dimensions necessary for her own
doll. This will provide excellent practice in fitting and measuring.
Making up. — Sew up the sleeve seams, and turn the sleeves on to the right
side. Next do up the side seams of the coat by sewing the fronts on to the back.
Leave about If in. unsewn at the top of each side seam to form the armholes.
(Again let each girl estimate for herself the exact amount to be left unsewn,
thus providing further exercise in fitting and measuring.) Now, starting
from the top of each armhole in turn, sew along the shoulder seams, for a dis-
tance of 1J in. from each end. This will leave the middle section of the back and
fronts not sewn together along the top, the open part forming the neck opening
of the coat. Sew the collar round this neck opening, easing it on slightly, so that
when it is turned down, it will lie quite flat.
Now sew in the sleeves on the wrong side of the coat ; turn back a fold at the
wrists | in. or J in. in depth, to form a cuff.
Turn the coat on to the right side. Lastly, attach loops of crocheted or plaited
chain to the right-hand side of the front, and small pearl buttons to the left-hand
side.
iV. B. — A full-length coat, to reach to the hem of the doll's frock, may be made
by knitting the fronts and back 10J in. long, instead of 1\ in.
STANDARD II. 81
12. DOLL'S KNITTED PETTICOAT.
New Pattern, involving Knit Two Purl Two and Plain Knitting.
Materials. — Two Bone Needles — size 9. Two Steel Needles — size 14. 1£ oz.
of 4-ply wool. If wool at 2s. 8d. per lb. be employed, the cost of one Petticoat
will be 2Jd. (For other qualities of 4-ply wool, see under Woolcraft.)
Fig. 71. Doll's Petticoat.
Instructions. — The 'pattern employed for this petticoat looks well on either side,
though the one selected for the right side in the photograph of the complete garment
(Fig. 71), is the more ornamental. An illustration is also shown (Fig. 72) of a small
section of the reverse side of the knitting.
6— (8i5b)
82 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
Allow only the best knitters to attempt a petticoat as large as the one des-
cribed below, as it involves a great deal of work for a Standard II child. A petti-
coat of about half the size, to fit a smaller doll, can be planned without difficulty
from the following instructions.
The petticoat is made in two sections, a front half and a back half, each of
which is knitted as follows : Employing the bone needles, cast on 40 stitches, or
Fig. 72. Doll's Knitted Petticoat. Reverse Side of Pattern.
as many as will give a width of 6 in. without stretching. The number of stitches
selected must be divisible by 4.
Is* Row. — * Knit Two Purl Two. Repeat from * to the end of the row.
2nd Row. — Knit plain. Repeat the first and second rows alternately, until
5J in. has been knitted. After the first row, slip the commencing stitch of each
row.
Now slip the stitches on to the steel needles, and continue the pattern on these
for three more inches. (The finer needles will produce a much narrower strip of
STANDARD II. 83
knitting, thus reducing the width for the bodice section of the petticoat without
.employing narrowings.)
Cast off all the stitches except eight at the end of the needle. Change now to
plain knitting, and continue to knit on these eight stitches until 1\ in. has
"been knitted to form a shoulder-strap. Cast off.
N.B. — In the case of dolls of different sizes, let each girl estimate for herself
the number of stitches required to produce the dimensions necessary for her own
doll. This will provide excellent practice in fitting and measuring.
Making up. — Place one half pf the petticoat upon the other half, so that one
shoulder-strap is at the right-hand side of the work and the other at the left.
Sew up the side seams of the skirt and bodice, starting from the bottom. Leave
J in. of ribbed knitting unsewn at the top of each side seam of the bodice, to form
the lower part of the armhole. Sew the shoulder-straps into position at the back
and front respectively, carrying the strap attached to the front half of the work
to the back, and the strap from the back to the front. An alternative method
is to leave the latter strap unsewn, and to fasten by means of buttons and loops.
This plan gives more room for taking off and on.
Decorate the neck opening and the armholes of the petticoat by a simple crochet
edging similar to that described under " Doll's Vest " (No. 7, St. II). Draw up the
neck and, if necessary, the waist, by narrow ribbon, or by a chain of wool with
pompoms attached to the ends.
N.B. — Instructions for a full-sized knitted petticoat for a baby are given
under the Standard V Syllabus.
13. DOLL'S SLIPPER WITH LEATHER SOLE.
More Difficult Exercise involving Casting-off a Section of the Stitches.
Revision of Knit One Purl One.
Materials. — Two Steel Needles — size 14. -J- oz. of any 4-ply wool. Quantity
required for class of 50 = 6 J oz. Cost of wool at 3s. lid. per lb. = Is. 7d. (For
•cheaper varieties of 4-ply wool and other qualities, see under Woolcraft.) Sole
■cut out in thin leather to fit the doll's foot.
Instructions. — The accompanying diagram (Fig. 73) shows the shape of the
knitting opened out before the shoe is made up.
Cast on 14 stitches, or an even number which will give a width of 1J in.
1st Row. — K. 1, p. 1, k. 1, p. 1, k. 1, p. 1, and then knit plain to the end of
row.
2nd Row. — Slip the first stitch, knit the next eight stitches plain, and then do
p. 1, k. 1, p. 1, k. 1, p. 1.
3rd Row.— Slip 1, p. 1, k. 1, p. 1, k. 1, p. 1, and then knit plain to the end of
row. Repeat second and third rows alternately, until 4 in. has been knitted.
Cast off six stitches at the ribbed end of the row, i.e., along AB (see Diagram),
and continue plain knitting on the remainder of the stitches until 1 in. of the
narrower strip has been knitted. Cast off these eight stitches, thus forming the
edge CF.
84
KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
r <- I" » r
ec- iv — ■>
Fig. 73. Doll's Slipper with Leather Sole.
Making up. — Sew the inside edge of the narrower strip, BC, to DE, the plain
part of the first row of the slipper, where the stitches were cast on. Turn down
the ribbed edge to fit round the ankle, and sew the plain knitted edge on to the
thin leather sole. The point F will thus form the toe of the slipper. Decorate
the front by means of a woollen pompom or a bow of ribbon.
Fig. 74. Doll's Slipper with Leather Sole.
N.B. — Instructions for knitting a full-sized bedroom slipper are given under-
the Standard IV Syllabus.
STANDARD II. 85
14 (A). KNITTED RUG FOR DOLL'S HOUSE.
Method of Inserting Short Lengths of Wool taught.
Materials. — Two Steel Needles — size 14. £ oz. of Double Berlin Wool,
and & oz. of No. 4 Knitting Cotton. Cost of wool at 4s. 6d. per lb. for class of
50 = Is. 9£d. Cost of Knitting Cotton at 2s. per lb. = Is. 2d.
Fig. 75. Knitted Rug for Doll's House.
Instructions. — The Berlin wool must be cut into lengths of 1 J in. each. These
lengths, knitted into the texture, will form the " Pile " of the rug. They must be
absolutely equal in length, and may be cut after winding the wool round a doubled
piece of card, or round a strip of wood with a slot grooved in one side, as described
below under " Full-sized Rug."
Cast on 15 stitches with the knitting cotton, or an odd number of stitches
which will produce a width of 2 in., and knit one row plain.
2nd Row. — Knit one stitch plain. Now insert between the first and second
stitches a length of Berlin wool, so that one end projects away from the knitter,
and one end towards her. Knit the second stitch. Take the loose end projecting
towards the knitter, and place it in the space between the second and third stitches,
so that now both ends of the short length of wool are turned away from the knitter,
and project from the other side of the work. Knit the third stitch, thus fixing
the short length into position. See that both projecting ends of Berlin wool are
of equal length. Proceed to insert another short length between the third and
fourth stitches. Knit the fourth stitch. Turn in the other end of the second length
and knit the fifth stitch. Continue this all along the row.
3rd Row. — Knit plain. Repeat the second and third rows until a strip about
4 in. long has been knitted. Finish with a row of plain knitting, and cast off.
Making up. — Gum a layer of wadding on to the wrong side of the rug. Place
over the wadding a layer of fine Hurden to form a strong lining. Turn in raw
edges, and sew strongly all the way round to the knitted edges of the rug. Fig. 76
shows the rug on the wrong side unlined, and the wrong side after being padded
and lined with Hurden.
KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
Hltrt»M»»»HMmnltlt»t»t fc.
Fig. 76. Knitted Rug for Doll's House.
14(B). INSTRUCTIONS FOR FULL-SIZED RUG FOR
HOUSEHOLD USE.
Materials. — Two Steel Needles — size 12. 12 lb. Beehive Turkey Rug Wool
(6-ply plain twist), and 3f lb. of Rug Cotton (6 Threads). (This Knitting Cotton
should not be confused with the No. 6 Knitting Cotton previously mentioned,
which is a much finer 3-ply cotton.) Wadding and Hurden for padding and lining.
Cost of Rug Wool at 2s. Id. per lb. = 25s. Cost of Knitting Cotton at Is. 6d.
per lb. = 5s. 7£d.
Instructions. — The rug described below costs about 3s. more than a rug of similar
size made on canvas, as the knitting cotton is an expensive item. Two yards of rug
canvas a yard wide may be obtained for 2s. 6d. The rug on canvas, however, does
not lend itself to " Community " work for children in the same way that a knitted
one does.
A convenient size for a large rug is 2 yds. long and 1 yd. wide. The knitting
STANDARD II.
87
will be done in strips, to be afterwards sewn firmly together. The strips should
be knitted for the width of the rug, so that each will be 1 yd. in length.
The cuttings of rug wool employed should be about 4 in. in length. The
best way to cut these of uniform length is to wind the wool evenly round a strip
of wood with a slot grooved in one side, or round a double layer of thick card ;
a number of lengths can then be cut at once by slipping the scissors along the slot.
A prepared piece of wood for the purpose, known as a " Gauge," may be purchased
from any wool shop for Id. or 2d.
Cast on 19 stitches for each strip. This will produce strips about 4 in. in
width. A larger number of stitches may be employed if wider strips are preferred,
but the number selected must be an odd number. Proceed as described under
Doll's Rug, employing Rug Wool instead of Double Berlin.
Knit a sufficient number of strips to produce the length of rug required.
Making up. — Sew the strips together with knitting cotton, taking care that
they fit exactly at the ends. When this has been done, lay the rug on a large
table with the pile downwards, and, with thin adhesive, gum layers of wadding on
to the wrong side of the rug. These layers should be tacked as well as gummed,
to prevent any possibility of their moving when the rug is shaken. Place a
layer of Hurden over the wadding to form a strong lining for the rug. Turn in
the raw edges, and sew the Hurden lining to the knitted edges of the rug with
waxed thread.
N.B. — The making of strips for a full-sized rug is a sufficiently hard exercise
for Standard III children, and will take the form of " Community " work.
15(A). DOLL'S CROCHETED SHAWL.
Double Crochet taught.
Materials. — Coarse Bone Crochet Hook. \ oz. 4-ply wool. Cjuantity7required
for class of 50 = 12£ oz. Cost of same at 4s. 6d. per lb. = 3s. 6d. (For cheaper
qualities of 4-ply wool, see under Woolcraft.
Fig. 77. Doll's Crocheted Shawl.
88 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
Instructions. — The shawl is made from a square of double crochet.
Square for Shawl. — Commence by making a loose chain of 25, or as many
as will measure 8 in. (For method of making chain, see General Instructions.)
1st Row. — Commencing with the second chain from the hook, work one double
crochet into each of the following chain stitches all along the row. (See General
Instructions.) Make one chain and turn.
2nd Row. — Work one double crochet into each stitch of the previous row,
taking up both the back and the front threads. Make one chain and turn. (N.B —
As it is a rather difficult matter to keep the edges quite level, it is a good plan
to let the children count their stitches each row, to see that the number remains
constant.) Repeat the second row, until 8 in. has been worked. Do not break
off the wool.
Border of Shawl. — Chain four, miss a stitch, and work one double crochet
into the second stitch along the row. * Chain four, miss one, and work a double
crochet into the next stitch. Repeat from * round each side of the shawl.
15 (B). INSTRUCTIONS FOR FULL-SIZED CROCHETED SHAWL
IN SIMILAR PATTERN.
Materials. — f lb. of 4-ply wool. Cost at 4s. 6d. per lb. = 3s. 4£d.
Instructions. — A full-sized shawl may be made in a similar manner to the one
described above. Let the commencing chain, however, be about 40 in. in length,
and continue to work until the shawl is about 40 in. square.
This exercise is, owing to its size, sufficiently difficult for Standard IV children.
One of the crocheted borders described under the work for that standard, may be
substituted for the chain border of the doll's shawl.
16(A). DOLL'S CROCHETED HAT.
Second Exercise in Double Crochet.
Materials. — Bone Crochet Hook of medium size. £ oz. of 4-ply wool. Quantity
required for class of 50 = 12J oz. Cost of same at 4s. 6d. per lb. = 3s. 6d. (For
cheaper qualities of 4-ply wool, see under Woolcraft.)
Instructions. — The hat is made from an oblong worked in double crochet.
Commence by making a loose chain of 20, or as many as will measure 4 in.
in length.
1st Row. — Commencing with the second chain from the hook, work one double
crochet into each of the following chain stitches all along the row. Make one
chain and turn.
2nd Row.— Work one double crochet into each stitch of the previous row.
taking up the back thread only. This produces the ridged effect seen in the
illustration. Make one chain and turn. Repeat the second row until a length
of 6 J in. has been worked.
Making up.— Fold the length of crochet into halves. Oversew up the two
sides, thus producing a bag. Turn this bag on to the right side, and turn up a
STANDARD II. 89
fold all the way round about J in. in depth. Now take each top corner of the hat
in turn and sew it down on to the brim. Over each point sew a decorative button
to form a neat and pretty finish.
Fig. 78. Doll's Crocheted Hat.
16(B). INSTRUCTIONS FOR A FULL-SIZED CROCHETED HAT
TO FIT A CHILD OF TEN YEARS.
Materials. — 2 oz. 4-ply wool. Cost at 4s. 6d. per lb. = 7d.
Instructions. — Adopt a method of working similar to that described above, but
employ the following dimensions : —
Commence with a chain measuring about 10£ in. in length. (The exact length
necessary should be determined by fitting the work to the child's head when a few
rows have been done.) Make the oblong about 17 in. long. Turn up a brim all
round, about 2 in. in depth.
The full-sized hat is a sufficiently difficult exercise for Standard IV children.
17. CROCHETED PURSE FOR CHILD'S OWN USE.
Third Exercise in Double Crochet. Finer Hook Employed.
Materials. — Fine Bone Crochet Hook. T \ oz. of No. 4 Knitting Cotton.
Quantity required for class of 50 = 1 lb. 6 oz. Cost of same at 2s. per lb. = 2s. 9d.
(The work can be made less expensive by employing a finer knitting cotton, though
the purses will be less stout and hard-wearing.)
The purse is made up from a crocheted oblong.
Begin by making a loose chain of 18, or as many as will measure 3£ in. in length.
1st Row. — Commencing with the second chain from the hook, work one double
crochet into each of the following chain stitches all along the row. Make one
chain and turn.
90 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
2nd Row. — Work one double crochet into each stitch of the previous row,
taking up both the back and front threads. Make one chain and turn. Repeat
the second row until 5 in. has been worked.
Fig. 79. Crocheted Purse for Child's Own Use.
Making up. — Turn up 1J in. of the length from the bottom edge, leaving 1J in.
of the length •from the top uncovered, to form the flap of the purse. Sew up the
two side seams, and turn the purse on to the right side. Sew on press-studs for
fastening the flap down at each side. Work a crocheted chain about 36 in. in
length, and sew an end of this strongly to each side of the purse underneath the
flap.
STANDARD III.
i. SMALL BOY'S KNITTED BRACES.
Knitting Two Together, and First Method of Making an Extra Stitch
taught.
Materials. — Two Steel Knitting-needles — size 14. J oz. of Milford's White
Knitting Cotton, No. 6 (3 threads). This may be bought at 3d. for a 2-oz. ball.
12 in. white Webbing. Total Cost = Id. per pair.
Fig. 80. Knitted Braces for Small Boy.
Instructions. — Knit two strips of knitting in the following manner : Cast on
10 stitches, or as many as will produce in ribbed knitting of knit 1, purl 1 a width
of J in. unstretched. Do 2\ in. of ribbed knitting of knit 1, purl 1, slipping the
commencing stitch of every row after the first.
Now widen as follows : Knit 2, knit twice into the next stitch (see first method
of increasing described in General Instructions), knit 1, knit twice into next stitch,
91
92 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
knit 1, knit twice into next stitch, knit 1, knit twice into next stitch, knit 1.
There will now be 14 stitches on the needle.
Change now to plain knitting with chain edge, and knit 10 in. of this.
Now narrow for a ribbed strip at the end of the brace as follows : Slip the
first stitch, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 tog., knit 1, knit 2 tog., knit 1,
knit 2 tog., knit 1. (For illustration of knitting two together, see General
Instructions.) This reduces the stitches to 10.
Change now to ribbing of knit 1, purl 1, and work 2\ in. in the same manner
as described for the commencement of the brace. Cast off. Each strip thus
knitted forms one half of the braces.
Making up. — Join the two strips together to form the back of the braces, by
sewing their edges firmly together for 1 in. above the ribbed ends. {See Fig. 80.)
Cut four strips of webbing each 3 in. long. Turn in and hem the raw edges at the
ends of each of these, and work a button-hole of the required size in each strip.
Sew one end of each strip of webbing firmly and neatly on to the wrong side of
the ends of the braces. (See Fig. 80.) Let the working of the button-holes and the
attachment of the webbing be done by Standard V or VI girls.
The braces can be lengthened as the boy grows by replacing the strips of web-
bing by new and longer pieces. It is a simpler matter to do this than to increase
the length of the knitting.
2. KNITTED CASE FOR CHILD'S COLOURED BALL.
Second Exercise in Knitting Two Together and Making a Stitch (First
Method).
Materials. — Two Steel Needles — size 14. 1£ oz. of No. 4 Knitting Cotton of
two contrasting colours. Cost of same at 2s. per lb. = 2£d.
Instructions. — The ball is suitable for " Community " work, several children
knitting a section each in order to make up one ball. The cover is made up of eight
similar sections, four in one shade, and four in another, each of which is knitted
as follows : —
Shaped Section.
Cast on 2 stitches. Knit 1 row plain.
2nd Row. — Slip 1, and knit twice into the next stitch. (See first method of
increasing, described in General Instructions.) There are now 3 stitches on the
needle. Knit 2 rows plain.
5th Row. — Slip 1, knit 2 into the next stitch, knit 1, producing -1 st. on the
needle. Knit 2 rows plain. In the plain rows, always slip the first stitch of each
row.
8th Row. — Slip 1, knit 2 into next stitch, knit 2 again into next stitch, knit
last stitch, producing 6 stitches on the needle. Knit 4 rows plain.
13th Row.— Slip 1, knit 2 into the next stitch, knit 2, knit 2 into the next stitch,
knit 1, producing 8 Stitches on the needle. Knit 6 rows plain.
20^ .Row.— Slip 1, knit 2 into the next stitch, knit 4, knit 2 into the next stitch,
knit 1, producing 10 stitches on the needle. Knit 9 rows plain.
30th Row. — Slip 1, knit 2 into the next stitch, knit 6, knit 2 into the next
stitch, knit 1, producing 12 stitches on the needle. Knit 20 plain rows.
STANDARD III.
93
5lst Row. — Slip 1, knit 2 together, knit 6, knit 2 together, knit 1, thus reducing
the number of stitches to 10. Knit 9 plain rows.
61st Row. — Slip 1, knit 2 tog., knit 4, knit 2 tog.,
number of stitches to 8. Knit 6 plain rows.
68th Row. — Slip 1, knit 2 tog., knit 2, knit 2 tog.,
number of stitches to 6. Knit 4 plain rows.
73rd Row. — Slip 1, knit 2 tog., knit 2 tog., knit 1,
of stitches to 4. Knit 2 plain rows.
knit 1, thus reducing the
knit 1, thus reducing the
thus reducing the number
Fig. 81. Knitted Case for Child's Coloured Ball.
76th Row. — Slip 1, knit 2 tog., knit the last stitch, thus reducing the number
of stitches to 3. Knit 2 plain rows.
79th Row. — Slip 1, knit 2 tog., thus reducing the stitches back again to 2 with
which the work was commenced. Knit 1 plain row, and cast off.
Circle for Top and Bottom of Ball.
Two circular pieces of knitting are required, each of which should be knitted
as follows : —
Cast on 3 stitches.
1st Row. — Slip 1 (purlwise, so as to produce chain edge), knit 2 into the next
stitch, knit 1, thus increasing the number of stitches to 4. Knit 1 plain row.
3rd Row. — Slip 1, knit 2 into the next stitch, knit 2 again into the next stitch,
Jcnit 1, producing 6 stitches on the needle. Knit 1 plain row.
94 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
5th Row. — Slip 1, knit 2 into the next stitch, knit 2, knit 2 into the next stitch,
knit 1, thus producing 8 stitches on the needle. Knit 1 plain row.
7 th Row. — Slip 1, knit 2 into the next stitch, knit 4, knit 2 into the next stitch,
knit 1, thus producing 10 stitches on the needle. Knit 3 plain rows.
11th Row. — Slip 1, knit 2 tog., knit 4, knit 2 tog., knit 1, thus reducing the
number of stitches to 8. Knit 1 plain row.
13th Row. — Slip 1, knit 2 tog., knit 2, knit 2 tog., knit 1, thus reducing the
number of stitches to 6. Knit 1 plain row.
15th Row. — Slip 1, knit 2 tog., knit 2 tog., knit 1, reducing the number of
stitches to 4. Knit 1 plain row.
17th Row. — Slip 1, knit 2 tog., knit 1, thus bringing the number of stitches
back again to 3, the original number. Cast off. Pull each piece of knitting into
a circular shape.
Making up. — Oversew together the edges of the sections, leaving open one
seam only ; place a light-coloured section alternately with a dark one. Now
stuff the cover as tightly as possible with cuttings or rovings of wool, and oversew
up the last seam.
It will be found that a small hole has been left at the top and bottom of the
ball, where the points of the sections meet. Cover these holes by neatly sewing
over them the small circular pieces of knitting described above. (See Fig. 81.)
3. BABY GIRL'S KNITTED STAYS.
Third Exercise in Knitting Two Together and Making a Stitch (First
Method) .
Materials. — Two Steel Needles — size 13. 2 oz. of Milford's White Knitting
Cotton, No. 6 (3 threads). The cost of one pair of stays is 3d., as the cotton may
be purchased at 3d. for a 2-oz. ball. Tapes for tying.
Instructions. — Commence at the centre of the back of the stays, as follows.
First Half Back.
Cast on 48 stitches, or as many as will produce knitting having a width of 6
or 6£ in. unstretched. (The stays may readily be made deeper if desired, by casting
on more stitches to commence.) Begin to work plain knitting, and continue this
until 4 in. has been knitted. (N.B. — The whole of the stays must be knitted
with chain edge.)
First Armhole.
Now work the decreasings for the armhole curve as follows : —
1st Row. — Slip the first stitch in the usual manner, knit two together, and then
do plain knitting along the remainder of the needle.
2nd Row. — Knit plain. Repeat the first and second rows of the armhole
alternately, until the number of stitches on the needle has been reduced to 36.
Finish the decreasings with a row knitted like the first row.
Now commence the increasings for the remaining half of the armhole curve as
follows : —
1st Row. — Knit plain along the needle until the last two stitches are reached.
Knit twice into the stitch before the last (see First Method of Increasing, General
Instructions), and then knit the last stitch.
STANDARD III. 95
2nd Row. — Knit plain all along the row. Repeat the above two rows alternately,
until there are once more 48 stitches on the needle.
Front of Stays.
Do plain knitting with chain edge until 7 in. has been knitted past, the armhole.
Second Armhole.
Knit as described under First Armhole.
Fig. 82. Baby Girl's Knitted Stays.
Second Half Back.
Knit as described under the first half'back. 1 ^ Cast off.
Shoulder Straps.
Knit each shoulder-strap as^follows : Cast on eight stitches, or as many as will
give a width of 1 in. unstretched. Knit a strip of plain knitting with chain edge
5£ in. long.
Making up. — Oversew the shoulder-straps into position, as shown in Fig. 82.
Fasten by means of six tapes each 8 in. long. Sew the tapes on the edge of the
right-hand side of the back, and at a distance of 1 in. from the edge on the left
side. If greater warmth is desired, line the little stays with flannel.
96 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
4. DOLL'S SCARF KNITTED ON THREE NEEDLES.
Casting on and Knitting on Three Needles taught.
Materials.— Four Steel Needles— size 15. & oz. of White Shetland Wool,
(2-ply), or other fine wool or knitting cotton. Quantity required for class of 50 =
9£ oz. Cost of same at 4s. 8d. per lb. = 2s. 9£d. (For other qualities of 2-ply
wool, see under Woolcraft.)
Doll's Scarf
Instructions. — Cast on 10 stitches on each of three needles, or as many as will
produce doubled knitting 1 J in. in width. After their previous practice in casting on,
children will find little difficulty in doing this. (The method of casting on on three
needles is fully described in General Instructions.) Instruct them how to draw the
third needle tightly up to the first, and let them with their fourth needle commence to
work round the stitches on the three needles. Advise the children always to pull
the wool tightly in knitting the first stitch of each needle, in order to avoid a line
STANDARD III, 97
of slack knitting between the needles. Let them do a circular strip of plain knitting
about 11 in. long, and then cast off.
Making up. — Gather up the ends of the scarf firmly, and suspend a full tassel
from each. (For method of making tassels, see General Instructions.)
Instructions for making a full-sized scarf on three needles are given under
Standard IV Syllabus.
5. MARBLE BAG (FOR BROTHER).
Second Exercise in Casting on and Knitting on Three Needles. Second
Method of Making a Stitch taught.
Materials. — Four Steel Needles — size 14. § oz. of No. 4 Knitting Cotton.
Cost of one bag, the knitting cotton being 2s. per lb. = Id.
Fig. 84. Boy's Marble Bag.
Instructions. — Cast on 20 stitches on each of three needles, or as many as will
produce doubled knitting 4 in. in width. Do 4 J in. of plain knitting, taking especial
care that the cotton is drawn up tightly between each pair of needles. In the next
round the holes are formed, through which draw-strings are passed for closing up
the bag. These holes will be produced as follows : —
* Knit three stitches, put the wool forward under the point of the right-hand
needle, and over it again to the back, thus making a stitch (see General Instruc-
tions), knit two stitches together. Repeat from *all the way round. Now do plain
knitting again, until another J in. has been worked. Cast off.
7— (8i 5 b)
98 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
Making up. — Turn the circular piece of knitting on to the wrong side,. flatten
it out, and sew the two bottom edges neatly together where the knitting was first
cast on, thus forming a bag. Turn this bag on to the right side. Now make two
plaits or crocheted chains of knitting cotton, each 14 in. long. Thread a bodkin
with one of the plaits, pass it through all the holes, and then join the two ends neatly
together. Do exactly the same with the second plait, joining its ends at the oppo-
site side of the work. Two plaited handles now project, one from each side of the
bag. It will be found that when these are pulled simultaneously, the bag closes up
in an efficient manner.
6. LUNCH BAG FOR CHILD'S OWN USE.
Knit Two and Purl Two on Three Needles introduced for Border
of Bag.
Materials. — Four Steel Needles — size 14. J% oz. of No. 6 Knitting Cotton.
Quantity required for class of 50 = 1 lb. 6 oz. Cost of same at 2s. per lb. = 2s. 9d.
Instructions. — Cast on 20 stitches on each of three needles, or as many as will
produce doubled knitting 4 in. in width. The number of stitches chosen must be
Fig. 85. Lunch Bag for Child's Own Use.
STANDARD III. 99
divisible by 4. Do 3 in. of plain knitting. Change to ribbed knittinglof knit 2
purl 2, and continue this for 1J in. Cast off. This ribbed knitting forms k suitable
border for the bag.
Making up. — Place the knitting in a flat position to form a bag, and! sew to-
gether the two bottom edges where the stitches were first cast on. Make q. plaited
or crocheted chain, about 36 in. in length to suspend the bag round the; child's
neck. Sew an end of this to each top corner of the bag. The ends should be
attached to the inside of the bag.
7. DOLL'S MUFF.
Second Exercise in Knit Two Purl Two on Three Needles.
Materials. — Four Steel Needles — size 15. J oz. 3-ply wool. Cost of sariie at
3s. lid. per lb. = fd. (For other qualities of 3-ply wool, see under Woolcraft,.)
Fig. 86. Doll's Muff.
Instructions. — Cast on 48 stitches, that is, 16 on each of three needles. Work
■2 in. of ribbed knitting of knit 2 purl 2. Cast off loosely.
Making up. — The muff may be padded with cotton wool, and a sateen lining
:sewn in, or it may be left unlined. (Directions for padding and lining a muff are
given under the Standard V Syllabus.) Draw the ends of the muff up slightly
by means of a gathering thread. Make a plaited or crocheted chain of wool to
form a neck cord, and add tassels at the sides of the muff for decoration, as shown
in Fig. 86. (The method of making the tassels is given under General Instructions.)
Instructions for making a child's muff in a more difficult pattern are given under
■the Standard V Syllabus.
100 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
KNITTED CUFFS FOR CHILD'S OWN WEAR.
REViiior/ Exercise in Knit Two Purl Two on Three Needles.
Materials.— Four Steel Needles— size 14. J oz. of 4-ply wool will make a pair
of cliffs. [ Cost of same at 3s. 1 Id. per lb. = 1 Jd. (For other qualities of 4-ply wool.
see Aindifir Woolcraft.)
Fig. 87. Knitted Cuff for Child's Own Wear.
Instructions. — Cast on 52 stitches, putting 16 on each of two needles, and 20 on-
one. Knit 4 in. of ribbing, knit 2 purl 2, and cast off loosely. For casting off,
employ the second method described under General Instructions. Knit the second-
cuff in the same manner.
9(A). DOLL'S PETTICOAT, KNITTED IN STRIPS.
Method of Making a Stitch at the Commencement of a Row, and Practice-
in Knitting Two Together.
Materials. — Two Bone Needles — size 8. Two Steel Needles — size 16. J oz. of
any 4-ply wool. Cost of same at 2s. 8d. per lb. = ljd. (For other qualities of
4-ply wool, see under Woolcraft.)
Instructions. — The petticoat consists of eight strips, each of which is knitted as-
follows : Cast on 9 stitches with the bone needles, or as many as will give a width
of 1J in. Put the right-hand needle under the wool before placing it in the first
stitch. This has the result of making a stitch at the commencement of the row.
(See General Instructions on Increasings.) Knit 3 stitches, knit 2 stitches together,.
STANDARD III. 101
knit 4 stitches. This completes the row. There will still be 9 stitches on the needle.
Repeat this row until 4| in. has been knitted.
Now slip the stitches on to No. 16 knitting-needles, and change to plain knit-
ting ; there will be now no making of stitches or knitting two together. Slip
the first stitch of each row. The change to fine needles will shape the petticoat,
so that it is less full at the waist. Do 1 in. of this plain knitting on steel needles,
and then cast off.
Fig. 88. Doll's Petticoat Knitted in Strips.
Making up. — Sew together the eight strips, leaving one seam open for 2 in.
down the centre of the back to form the placket-hole.
The petticoat may be attached to a bodice, or may be drawn up at the waist
by a runner. If it is to be drawn up without a bodice, crochet the following chain
edge round the top, through which a runner may be passed : 1 double crochet
into a stitch, * chain 1, miss a stitch, and double crochet into the next stitch.
Repeat from * right round the waist of the petticoat. Pass through the small
loops formed, a runner of ribbon, tape, or crocheted chain. If a chain is employed,
attach a woollen pompom to each end.
Round the scallops at the bottom of the petticoat work the following edging :
* 1 double crochet into a stitch, miss a stitch, 3 treble into next stitch, miss a
stitch. Repeat from * all round the scallops.
N.B. — The crochet borders may be done by a girl in a higher standard.
102 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
9(b). INSTRUCTIONS FOR KNITTING A PETTICOAT IN
STRIPS FOR CHILD'S OWN WEAR.
Materials. — Two Bone Needles — size 6. Two Steel Needles — size 15. About
14 oz. of 4-ply wool.
Instructions. — The petticoat here described will fit a child of 9 or 10 years. By
decreasing or increasing the width or length of the strips, the petticoat may be
altered to fit a child or adult of any build or height.
It consists of about 14 strips, each of which is knitted as follows : Cast on
21 stitches with the bone needles. Make a stitch at the commencement of the row,
as described under " Doll's Petticoat " above. Knit 9 stitches, knit 2 together,
knit 10 stitches. Counting the stitch made at the beginning, there will still be
21 stitches on the needle. Repeat this row until a sufficient length has been
knitted to reach from the hem of the girl's skirt to within 3 in. of her waist. (15 in.
will be an average length for a girl of 9 or 10 years.) Now slip the stitches on to
size 15 steel needles, and change to plain knitting, slipping the first stitch at the
commencement of each row. Do 3 in. of knitting on the steel needles and cast off.
N.B. — It may be found that less or more than 14 strips are required, according
to the slimness of the girl to be fitted. This should be ascertained by measuring
her as the work proceeds.
Making up. — Sew together the strips, leaving one seam open for 6 in. down
the centre of the back to form the placket-hole. Attach the petticoat to a bodice
made of flannel or flannelette. As a petticoat of this description wears for a long
time, it is better to have a bodice that can be replaced by a larger one as the
child grows than a knitted one which is difficult to replace. Work the same
crocheted edging round the scallops at the bottom as the one described under
" Doll's Petticoat."
io. KNITTED TEA-COSY.
Method of Joining Wool taught.
Materials. — Two Bone Needles — size 9. Double Berlin Wool of five shades.
5 oz. will make two Tea-Cosies. Cost of same at 4s. 6d. per lb. = Is. 5d.
Instructions. — For the tea-cosy shown in the illustration, five shades of blue
wool, ranging from navy to pale blue, were employed. The cosy is made in two
halves, each of which is knitted as follows : Cast on 36 stitches in the darkest
shade of wool, or as many as will give a width of 8 in. without stretching. The
number of stitches selected must be divisible by 3.
1st Row. — * Knit 2 purl 1. Repeat from * all along the row.
2nd Row. — Knit plain. Slip the commencing stitch of every row after the
first. Repeat the first and second rows alternately, until 1J in. has been knitted
in the darkest shade. Break off the wool.
Join on now with wool one shade lighter than that first employed. (See
General Instructions.) Knit 1J in. as before. Break off.
Work 1J in. in a similar manner with each of the next two shades of wool.
Four shades of wool have now been employed.
Join on the palest shade of wool and knit J in. of the pattern, finishing with
STANDARD III.
103
a row of knit 2 purl 1. Then, instead of doing plain knitting for the next row,
work as follows : Slip 1, make 1 (see second method of increasing, General
Instructions), knit 2 together, * knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together. Repeat from *
to the end of the row. This will produce a row of holes, through which a woollen
chain will afterwards be passed to draw up the top of the cosy.
Change back to the pattern, and continue this till 1J in. has been worked in
the palest shade of the wool. Cast off loosely.
If desired, a lining of plain knitting may be made for each half of the cosy.
Fis. 89. Knitted Tea-Cosy.
If this is done, sew the knitted lining neatly to each half of the cosy before it is
made up.
Making up. — Place the two halves of the cosy facing each other. Sew up
the side seams for \\ in. from the bottom and 1 in. from the top, leaving the
spaces between unjoined, for the spout and handle of the pot.
Decorate the top edge of the cosy with the following simple crochet chain :
1 double crochet into a stitch, * 5 chain, miss 2 stitches, 1 double crochet into the
next stitch. Repeat from * all round the top. Employ the darkest shade of
wool for this edging, as it will form a pleasing contrast to the pale shade.
Make a crocheted woollen chain about 22 in. long (also of the darkest shade
of wool), pass it through the holes formed for the purpose, and draw the cosy up
104
KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
at the top. Attach full pompoms to the ends of the chain, and tie these ends in a
bow. If preferred, the cosy may be drawn up with ribbon.
N. B. — The cosy described above will fit a teapot holding from 1 \ pt=. to 1 qt. If
a larger size is required, cast on more stitches, selecting a number which is a multiple
of 3. The most satisfactory way is to let the children measure the size of the
pot for which the cosy is required, and to cast on the number of stitches necessary
to fit the pot.
II. DOLL'S JERSEY ON THREE NEEDLES.
Two Varieties of Ribbed Knitting employed in Making Article of more
Difficult Construction.
Materials. — Four Steel Needles — size 14. 1J oz. of any 4-ply wool. Cost of
same at 2s. 8d. per lb. = 2£d. (For other qualities of wool, see Woolcraft.)
Doll's Jersey Knitted on Three Needles.
Instructions. — Body of Jersey.
Cast on 84 stitches, that is, 28 on each of three needles, or as many as will
give doubled knitting (ribbed) 3£ in. in width unstretched. The number of stitches
selected must be divisible by 4. Do about J in. of ribbed knitting, knit 2 purl 2.
This will form the turned-up border at the bottom of the jersey. Change
now to ribbing of knit 1 purl 1, and knit 4 in. of this pattern. The base of the
armholes has now been reached, and the stitches must be arranged on two needles
STANDARD III. 105
instead of three. Place 42 stitches on each, so that the knitting for the front of
the jersey may be worked on one needle, and the knitting for the back on the second
needle. Leave the 42 stitches on the back needle for a time, or pass them on to
a piece of wool, and knit backwards and forwards on the front needle in the knit 1
purl 1 pattern, until 1 J in. has been knitted in this way. Now cast off 1 1 stitches
at the commencement of the row, and then do knit 1 purl 1 to the end of the
needle. At the commencement of the next row, again cast off 11 stitches, thus
leaving 20 stitches not cast off in the centre of the pin. Now change the pattern
to knit 2 purl 2 for the neckband of the jersey. Do about half-an-inch of knitting
on these 20 stitches, and then cast off.
Now join the wool on again at the commencement of the 42 stitches left on
the needle for the back. Knit the back of the jersey from the armhole upwards,
exactly as was described for the front. After completing the ribbing for the
neckband, cast off.
Sleeves.
Knit each sleeve as follows : Cast on 28 stitches, that is, 8 on each of two
needles and 12 on one. Do ribbing of knit 2 purl 2 for about £ in., to form the
turned-up cuff at the wrist. Change to the knit 1 purl 1 ribbing, work 3J in.
in this pattern, and cast off loosely.
Making up. — Turn the jersey on to the wrong side, and sew up one shoulder
seam, and the seam at one side of the neckband. The shoulder and neck opening
at the opposite side will be left open, so that the jersey may be easily slipped over
the doll's head. Sew the sleeves into the armholes, and turn the jersey on to the
right side. Sew on small woollen loops and pearl buttons for the fastening of
shoulder and neck, or fasten with press-studs.
12. DOLL'S HAT.
Knit One Purl Two, and Knit Two Purl One taught for Pattern of
Hat.
Materials. — Four Steel Needles — size 14. f oz. of any 4-ply wool. If wool
at 3s. lid. per lb. be employed, the cost of one hat will be about 2d. (For other
qualities of 4-ply wool, see under Woolcraft.)
Fig. 91. Doll's Hat.
106 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
Instructions. — Brim of Hat.
Cast on 72 stitches, that is, 24 on each of three needles, or as many as will
produce knitting measuring 8 in. round without stretching. Knit 10 rounds of
ribbing of knit 2 purl 1, This completes the brim. (An alternative and easier
pattern is ribbing of k. 1, p. 1. The number of stitches chosen must be divisible
by 3 or by 2, according to pattern selected.)
Fold.
Knit 4 rounds of plain knitting to form a natural fold.
Crown of Hat.
Change to ribbing of knit 1 purl 2, and work 2\ in. in this pattern. (If, how-
ever, k. 1, p. 1 has been employed in knitting brim, use it also for crown of hat.)
Cast off loosely, employing the second method described under General Instructions.
Making up. — Turn the work on to the wrong side and flatten it to form a bag
shape. Sew together the open ends where the casting-off was done. Turn the
bag on to the right side, and fold back the brim. Now take each top corner of
the hat in turn, and sew it down on to the brim. Fix a woollen pompom on each
of the sewn-down comers, to form a prettv finish to the hat.
13. KNITTED HAT FOR CHILD'S OWN WEAR.
Same Pattern Employed as in Preceding Exercise, but on Larger Scale,
and on Two Needles.
Fig. 92. Hat for Child's Own Wear.
Materials. — Two Bone Needles — size 9. 1} oz. 4-ply wool. Cost of same at
4s. 6d. per lb. is about 6d. Two Pearl Buttons.
Instructions. — This hat will fit a child of 9 or 10 years of age. It is knitted in
STANDARD III. 107
a long strip, commencing with the double fold for the front brim, and finishing
with the double fold for the back brim.
Double Fold for Front Brim.
Cast on 66 stitches, or as many as will produce knitting having a width of
10J in. without stretching. The exact width necessary should be determined by
measuring round the head of the intended wearer. The number chosen should be
divisible by 3 or 2, according to pattern selected.
1st Row. — * Knit 1 purl 2. Repeat from * to the end of the row. An
alternative and easier pattern is ribbing of k. 1, p. 1.
2nd Row. — * Knit 2 purl 1. Repeat from * to the end of the row.
Repeat these two rows alternately six times more, slipping the commencing stitch
of each row. This will make 14 rows in all, and will complete the under part of
the front brim. This under part should be about 1£ in. in depth. Knit 4 plain
rows to form a natural fold between the under and upper part of the brim. Com-
mence again to work the first and second rows alternately, and do 18 rows to form
the upper part of the brim, or as many rows as will measure If- in. in depth. Knit
4 more plain rows, to form another natural fold between the brim and crown of
hat.
Crown of Hat.
1st Row. — * Knit 2 purl 1. Repeat from * to the end of the row. If, however,
k. 1, p. 1 has been employed in knitting the brim, use it also for the crown of
the hat.
2nd Row. — * Knit 1 purl 2. Repeat from * to the end of the row.
Repeat these two rows alternately until 12 in. has been knitted for the crown
of the hat. The last row for the crown should be knit 1 purl 2. Knit 4 plain
rows, to form a natural fold between the crown and the back brim.
Double Fold for Back Brim.
1st Row. — * Knit 1 purl 2. Repeat from * to the end of the row.
2nd Row. — * Knit 2 purl 1. Repeat from * to the end of the row.
Continue to knit these two rows alternately, until 18 rows, or If in., have been
knitted. Knit 4 plain rows for the fold. Commence again to work the first and
second rows alternately, and do 14 rows, or 1£ in., to form the under part of the
back brim. Cast off loosely.
Making up. — Double the strip, so that the knit 1 purl 2 side of the crown is
outermost. Sew up the two side seams neatly. Fold the brim into position all
round the hat. Now take each top corner of the hat in turn, and sew it down
on to the brim. Fix a large pearl button on to each of the sewn-down corners.
Buttons covered with a small square of plain knitting may be employed if
preferred.
N.B. — The hat described above will fit a girl of 8, 9, or 10 years. It will not
tea difficult matter for any individual girl to vary the number of stitches and the
measurements to suit her own purpose. She may thus make a hat of the same
pattern to fit a younger or an older child, as may be required.
108 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
14. TIE KNITTED IN SPIDER PATTERN.
New Ornamental Stitch taught.
Materials.— Two Steel Needles — size 14. 1 Ball of " Coton Perle " D.M.C., size 5.
Cost of same = 2d.
Fig. 93. Tie Knitted in Spider Pattern.
Instructions. — The children will enjoy knitting this tie as a present for some
friend or relation.
Long End of Tie.
Cast on 12 stitches.
1st Row. — Knit the first stitch in the ordinary manner. Insert the needle in
the second stitch, put the cotton once round the points of both needles, and then
place it round the right-hand needle in the usual manner, and knit the stitch ;
draw the loop through the cotton that was placed round the two needles as well
as through the stitch. (See Fig. 94.) This is known as " Spider Stitch."
Repeat this all along the needle till the last stitch is reached. Knit this last
stitch plain.
STANDARD III. 10&
2nd Row. — Slip the first stitch, and then knit plain all along the row.
3rd Row. — Slip the first stitch, and do spider stitch all along the row until
the last stitch is reached. Knit this stitch plain. Repeat the second and third
rows alternately, until 15 in. has been knitted.
Fig. 94. Method of Working Spider Pattern for Tie.
Narrow Portion for Neck.
Narrow as follows for the part to be slipped under the collar : Slip the first
stitch, knit 1, knit 2 tog. four times, knit 2. This reduces the stitches to eight.
Proceed with the pattern as before, until 11 in. of the narrower strip has
been knitted.
Short End of Tie.
Widen for the second end of the tie as follows : Slip 1, knit 2, raise a stitch
(by taking a loop from the row below and knitting it ; see General Instructions oil
Increasings), knit 1, raise a stitch, knit 1, raise a stitch, knit 1, raise a stitch, knit 2.
There will now be 12 stitches on the needle, as at the beginning.
Proceed with the pattern as before, until another 13 in. has been knitted for
the second end of the tie. Cast off.
N.B. — The best dimensions for a man's tie are as follows : Long end, 12. in ;.
narrow neck portion, 16 in. ; short end, 8 in.
110
KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
IS (A). DOLL'S CROCHETED BONNET.
Treble Stitch taught.
Materials. — Bone Crochet Hook of medium size. J oz. of 4-ply wool. Quantity
required for class of 50 = 12J oz. Cost of same at 4s. 6d. per lb. = 3s 6 jd. (For
cheaper qualities of 4-ply wool, see under Woolcraft.)
■->B
4 l'...
-2\ -> p
< 7 i
Fig. 95. Doll's Crocheted Bonnet.
Instructions. — The accompanying diagram shows the shape of the crochet
before the bonnet is made up.
Portion to Fit round Top and Sides of Head.
Commence by making a loose chain of 30, or as many as will measure 7 in.
in length. (G to H.)
Is/ Row. — Commencing with the third chain from the hook, work 1 treble into
each of the following chain stitches all along the row. (For method of working
" Trebles," see General Instructions.) Make 3 chain and turn.
2nd Row. — Work 1 treble into each stitch of the previous row, taking up the
back thread only, in order to produce the ribbed effect seen in Fig. 96. Make 3
chain and turn.
Repeat the first and second rows until 3 in. has been worked. Break off
the wool.
Back of Bonnet.
1st Row. — Join on the wool again at a distance of 2\ in. along the row, that is,
at the point E. Make 3 chain to form a treble, and then work 1 treble into each
of the next eight stitches, or as many as will measure about 2 in. Leave the
remaining stitches from B to C untouched, and turn with 3 chain.
2nd Row. — Work 1 treble into the top of each of the 9 treble of the previous
row, taking up the back thread only as before.
STANDARD III. Ill
Repeat these two rows until 1\ in. of the narrower width has been worked.
Break off the wool, and neatly darn in all ends.
Making up. — Turn down the rectangular flap which forms the back of the
bonnet, and sew AB to CB, and DE to FE. Turn the bonnet on to the right side.
Fig. 96. Doll's Crocheted Bonnet.
Decorate the front edge of the bonnet with the following border : Join on
the wool, * make 4 chain, miss 1 stitch, and work a double crochet into the next
stitch. Repeat from * right along the edge.
Fold back from the front of the bonnet a flap \ in. in depth to form the
turned-back fold shown in the illustration.
15(B). FULL-SIZED BONNET FOR CHILD OF EIGHT OR NINE
YEARS OLD.
2 oz. 4-ply wool. Cost at 4s. 6d. per lb. = 7d.
Instructions. — Work in a similar manner to the Doll's Bonnet, but observe
the following dimensions —
Length of chain, GH, about 15 in. ; width of portion to fit round sides and
top of head and to form flap, i.e., the distance GC, about 7 in. ; distance FE,
about 5£ in. ; distance EB, about 4 in. ; distance BC, about 5£ in. ; depth of
back of bonnet, i.e., distance BA, about 5£ in.
Whenever possible, measure the head of the child for whose wear the hat is
intended, and determine the measurements accordingly. The full-sized bonnet is a
sufficiently difficult exercise for Standard IV children.
112 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
16(A). DOLL'S CROCHETED PETTICOAT.
Second Exercise in Treble Stitch. Simple Border Pattern taught.
Materials.— Coarse Bone Crochet Hook, f oz. of 4-ply wool. Cost of
same at 2s. 3d. per lb. = ljd. (For better qualities of 4-ply wool, see under
Woolcraft.)
Fig. 97. Doll's Crocheted Petticoat.
Instructions. — Make a loose chain of 21, or as many as will measure about 5 in.
in length.
1st Row. — Commencing with the second chain from the hook, work 1 double
crochet in each of the next 4 chain. Change now to treble stitch, and work 1
treble into each of the remaining chain stitches along the row.
2nd Row. — Turn with 3 chain, and work 1 treble into each stitch of the previous
row, until the last 4 stitches are reached. Into each of these work 1 double
crochet. The working of the d.c.'s in the last 4 stitches will have the effect of
narrowing the work at one end to form the waist. (In the case of each treble and
double crochet, take up both the back and front threads of the previous row.)
3rd Row. — Turn with 1 chain, and work 1 double crochet into each of the first
4 stitches ; then work 1 treble into each remaining stitch along the row.
STANDARD III. 113
Repeat the second and third rows alternately until the waist measurement,
(i.e., the length of the end where the double crochet has been worked), is 8 in.
Making up. — Fold the work in halves, and sew together the back seam for a
distance of 3 J in. from the bottom, leaving open 1£ in. at the top for the placket-
hole. Turn the work on to the right side. Work the following simple border
round the bottom —
Make 1 double crochet in a stitch, * miss a stitch, 4 treble into the next stitch,
1 double crochet into next stitch. Repeat from * all the way round. If the
border seems too full, occasionally miss a stitch between the 4 treble and the
double crochet immediately following.
16 (B). INSTRUCTIONS FOR FULL-SIZED CROCHETED
PETTICOAT TO FIT A CHILD OF TEN OR ELEVEN YEARS.
Materials. — About 14 oz. of 4-ply wool. Cost of same at 2s. 8d. per lb. = 2s. 4d.
Instructions. — Work as described under Doll's Petticoat, with the following
alterations in dimensions : —
Let the commencing chain be about 21 in. long. (The exact length required
must be ascertained by measuring the girl for whom the petticoat is intended.)
To form the waistband, work double crochet for a distance of 3| in. down instead
of for 4 stitches only as described under Doll's Petticoat ; and, when working to-
wards the top of the garment, finish the last 3^ in. by double crochet for the waist-
band. Continue the pattern until the waist measure is about 24 in. in length.
(Again measure the intended wearer to ascertain the exact size required.)
Making up. — Sew up the back seam, leaving open 7 in. at the top for the
placket-hole. Turn the work on to the right side. Work a crocheted border
round the bottom, as described under Doll's Petticoat.
The making of a full-sized petticoat is an exercise sufficiently difficult for
Standard V children.
17. CROCHETED CUFFS FOR CHILD'S OWN WEAR.
Third Exercise in Treble Stitch.
Materials. — A medium Bone Crochet Hook. £ oz. of 4-ply wool for the pair.
Cost, if wool at 3s. lid. per lb. is employed = l£d. per pair. (For other qualities
of 4-ply wool, see under Woolcraft.)
Instructions. — Make a chain of 24 loops, or 4 in. long.
1st Row. — Make 1 extra chain to turn with. Work 1 d.c. into each of the
24 chain.
2nd Row. — Turn with 3 chain. Work 1 treble on each d.c. of the previous row.
Repeat the above two rows 10 times more, or until 6 in. of crochet has been worked
to go round the wrist. Break the wool off, leaving a sufficient length for the pur-
pose of joining the cuff, and draw the last loop through. Sew the commencing
8— (815B)
114
KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
row and the finishing row of the cuff together with the end of wool left, making
the join on the wrong side of the work.
Border.
Commence at one end of the joining seam and proceed as follows : 1 d.c. into
the end of the seam ; * chain 5, miss the end of the row of trebles, and work 1 d.c.
Fig. 98. Crocheted Cuffs for Child's Own Wear.
into the end of the first row of double crochet. Repeat from * all round the end
of the cuff until the seam is reached. Finish off both the commencing and finish-
ing ends of the wool by darning them neatly down the wrong side of the seam.
Work a similar border round the other end of the cuff.
18. CROCHETED HAIR-BAND FOR GIRL'S OWN WEAR.
Harder Revision Exercise in Double Crochet.
Materials. — Coarse Steel Crochet Hook — about size 2.
Silkie," medium size, or fine Knitting Cotton. One ball of
and will make three hair-bands.
i of a ball of " O-So-
O-So-Silkie " costs 2d.,
Instructions. — Crochet a loose chain long enough to fit over the top of the girl's
head. The number of chain made for the hair-band shown in the photograph was
60, and the length was 1 1 in. * Work double crochet into each stitch of the chain,
STANDARD III. 115
except the first. Turn with 1 chain, and repeat from *. Work 7 rows of double
crochet in all. Cut the thread, draw the end through, and fasten off securely.
Making up. — Decorate each end of the hair-band with a rosette of narrow
ribbon. Elastic of the length required to fit under the child's hair should be sewn
to the ends of the hair-band.
Fig. 99. Crocheted Hair-band for Girl's Own Wear.
STANDARD IV.
i. TRIANGULAR HEAD-WRAP.
Revision of Spider Stitch in Article of more Difficult Construction.
Materials. — Two Bone Needles — size 9. Bone Crochet Hook of medium size.
2£ oz. of Andalusian Wool. Cost of wool at 4s. 6d. per lb. = 9d. (For other
varieties of Andalusian Wool, see Woolcraft.)
Fig. 100. Triangular Head-Wrap.
116
STANDARD IV. 117
Instructions. — First Half of Shawl.
Commence at the point, by casting on 3 stitches.
Is* Row. — Make a stitch at the commencement of the row, by putting the
needle under the wool before knitting. (See Fifth Method of Increasing, General
Instructions.) Knit the first stitch, and then work spider stitch into all the
remaining stitches. A full description of this stitch is given under " Knitted Tie
in Spider Stitch " in Standard III Syllabus. (See p. 108.)
2nd Row. — Slip the first stitch, and work spider stitch into all the remaining
stitches. Repeat the first and second rows alternately, until there are 56 stitches
on the needle.
Then, instead of making a stitch at the commencement of every other row,
work 3 rows like the second row between the widening rows, instead of 1 row.
This will have the effect of making the widening more gradual, and will ensure
a better fit round the front part of the head. Continue to widen at the com-
mencement of every fourth row, until there are 62 stitches on the needle. Knit
two rows without widening or narrowing.
Second Half of Shawl.
Now commence to narrow for the second half of the shawl as follows : —
Is* Row. — Slip the first stitch, work spider stitch all along the row, and knit
the last two stitches together. In knitting the latter, put the wool over twice as
usual to form a spider stitch. (The two stitches knitted together must be at the
same end of the needle at which the increasings were made in the first half of the
wrap.)
2nd Row. — Slip the first stitch, and work spider stitch in all the remaining
stitches.
3rd and 4th Rows. — Like the second row. Repeat rows 1 to 4 until there are
56 stitches on the needle.
Change now, and decrease more rapidly by repeating the first and second rows
only, alternately, omitting the third and fourth rows. Continue to decrease thus
at the end of every other needle, until only three stitches remain on the needle
Cast off.
Crocheted Border.
If the border here described proves too difficult for Standard IV children, have
it worked by Standard V or VI girls, or substitute one of the simpler borders
previously given.
1st Row of Border. — * Work 1 double crochet into a stitch at the end of a row,
and 5 treble into the stitch at the end of the next row. Repeat from * all round
the shawl. Make the border rather full round the two points at the ends of the
shawl.
2nd Row of Border. — Work 1 double crochet into the stitch between the first
double crochet and the first treble of the row of the border which has just been
completed. * Miss 2 stitches, work 7 tr. into the next stitch, miss 2 stitches,
1 double crochet into next stitch. Repeat from * all the way round. (The clusters
of 7 trebles will thus be over the centre of the 5 trebles in the first row of the border.)
118 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
2. BABY'S FIRST VEST.
Revision of Increasings and Decreasings for the Shaping of the Neck.
Materials. — Two Bone Knitting-needles — size 11. 2£ oz. of Andalusian Wool.
1 yd. of narrow Ribbon or Tape. Cost, employing wool at 4s. 6d. per lb. = 8d.
(For other suitable wools and their prices, see under Woolcrafi.)
Fig. 101. Baby's First Vest.
Instructions. — The work is commenced at the open edge of the right front,
and continued round until the left front is completed. Cast on 56' stitches, or
as many as will produce knitting measuring 8 in. in length, unstretched.
Right Front.
1st and 2nd Rows. — Knit plain.
3rd and 4th Rows. — Purl.
5th and Qth Rows.— Plain. In the fifth row make the first increasing for the
neck slope thus : Slip the first stitch, make a stitch (First Method, General
Instructions) ; knit the remainder of the row as usual.
1th and 8th Rows. — Purl.
•dthand 10th Rows.— Plain. Increase again in the ninth row, in the same way
as in the fifth row. It will now be seen that knitting two plain rows and two purl
rows alternately produces a ribbed effect. Continue this ribbing throughout the
garment.
iQ+i? ^iS Ue t0 increase b y making one stitch in every fourth row (i.e., in the
ldtn, 17th, 21st, 25th, etc.), until there are 68 stitches on the needle, or until the
STANDARD IV. 119
knitting measures 9 in. along the row. The straight piece for the shoulder section
is now commenced. Discontinue the increasings, and proceed with the ribbing
in the ordinary way until the knitting measures 5£ in. in width from the com-
mencement. (In the vest shown in Fig. 101, 18 double ribs are worked for the front.)
Armhole.
Form this as follows : Cast off 30 stitches (or as many as give a length of 3£
in.) at the top of the vest, and knit the remaining 38 stitches of the row. Knit
back along these stitches, and then cast on 30 new stitches to take the place of
those cast off, so that the total number of stitches on the needle, in readiness for
knitting the back, remains unaltered.
Back.
Work a perfectly straight piece of knitting 7| in. wide, or consisting of about
24 double ribs. Cast off to form the armhole as before, and then cast on a
corresponding number of stitches to take the place of those removed.
Left Front.
Work a straight portion equal in width to the straight section of the right
front. Then commence to decrease for the neck slope as follows : Commencing at
the top end of a plain row, slip the first stitch, knit 2 tog., knit the remainder of
the row plain.
Decrease in the same way at the beginning of one row in every four, until the
number of stitches on the needle is the same as that at first cast on. The right
front should now be equal in width to the left front. Cast off, using the second
method, General Instructions.
Sleeves.
Each sleeve is knitted as follows : Cast on 50 stitches, or as many as will pro-
duce knitting measuring 7 in. in length. Work a piece of ribbing (knit 2 rows,
and purl 2 rows), 6 in. wide, or consisting of about 20 double ribs. Cast off by the
second method, General Instructions.
Making up. — Turn the vest to the wrong side, and join the straight shoulder
portion of each front to the corresponding part of the back, leaving the middle
portion of the top of the back to form part of the neck opening.
Join up each sleeve by means of a seam worked on the wrong side. Then insert
each sleeve in an armhole, placing the sleeve seam to the under arm seam, and sew
it in on the wrong side of the garment.
Crocheted Edging.
Commence at one end of the bottom of the vest and proceed as follows : —
Is* Row. — 1 d.c. into the end of the first plain knitted rib, * 1 ch., 1 d.c. into
the end of the next plain knitted rib ; repeat from * all round the vest until the
starting-point is reached again. (In working along the edge of each front the
distance from one d.c. to the next must be judged by the worker, as there will
be no ribs to serve as a guide.)
2nd Row. — 1 d.c. into the first chain of the previous row, * 4 chain, 1 d.c. into
next chain ; repeat from * all round the vest. When the starting-point is reached
again, break off the wool, draw it through, and fasten it off neatly. Work a
similar edging round the bottom of each sleeve, drawing in the sleeve slightly,
while so doing.
Method of Fastening.
Lap the left front over the right to produce a double-breasted effect. Attach
ribbons or tapes (as shown in the photograph) to secure the fronts in position.
120 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
3. CHILD'S VEST.
New Pattern of Knitting taught. Larger Number of Stitches on Needle
employed.
Materials. — Two Bone Needles — size 9. 3£ oz. of Vest Wool, or other suitable
4-ply wool. Cost of same at 4s. 6d. per lb. = Is. OJd. Bone Crochet Hook of
medium size.
Fig. 102. Child's Vest.
STANDARD IV. 121
Instructions. — The vest described here will fit a child of three years. If coarser
needles are employed, and the length increased, it can be made to fit a much older
child. Each half of the vest is knitted separately, and in the following manner : —
Cast on 72 stitches, or as many as will produce knitting having a width of
8 \ in. without stretching. The number of stitches selected must be divisible by 4.
Work 1 in. of ribbing of knit 1 purl 1 for the border of the vest. After the first
row, always slip the commencing stitch of each row. Change now to the following
pattern : —
1st, 2nd, and 3rd Rows. — * Knit 2 purl 2. Repeat from * to the end of the
row. (For method of counting rows, see General Instructions.)
4th Row. — Knit plain. Repeat rows 1 to 4 until 12 in. of this pattern has
been knitted. Now cast off all the stitches except 14 at the end of the row. The
casting-off should be very loosely done, as the vest is made to slip over the child's
head. Knit 4£ in. of plain knitting on these 14 stitches to form a shoulder-strap
for one side of the vest. Cast off. This completes one-half of the vest.
Making up. — Place one half of the vest upon the other half, so that one shoulder-
strap is at the right-hand side of the work, and the other at the left. Sew up the
side seams, starting from the bottom. Leave 2 in. of the ribbed pattern unsewn
at the top of each side seam, to form part of the armhole. Sew the shoulder-
straps into position, carrying the strap attached to the front half of the work to
the back, and the strap from the back to the front.
The following border may be pat round the neck and armholes to form a
decorative finish, and to afford a means of drawing the neck up closely after the
vest has been slipped on : —
1st Row. — Work 1 treble into a stitch, * 1 chain, miss a stitch, 1 treble into
the next stitch. Repeat from * right round the neck and armholes, doing trebles
with 1 chain between in alternate stitches.
2nd Row. — Make picots all round the first border as follows : 1 double crochet
into a stitch, * chain 3, go back and make a double crochet into the first of the
3 chain, miss a stitch, and secure picot by a double crochet into the next stitch.
Repeat from * all round the border.
N.B. — If the border seems too full, occasionally miss two stitches instead of
one. For a simpler crochet border than the above, see under " Doll's Crocheted
Petticoat," Standard III. Draw up the neck of the vest by running a crocheted
chain of wool through the holes formed by the border. Attach small pompoms
to the ends of the chain. Ribbon may be employed for this purpose if preferred.
4. STRIPED SILK TIE, OR SPORTS TIE IN CLUB COLOURS.
Revision Exercise in Joining Thread.
Materials. — Four Steel Needles — size 14. Nearly 2 balls of Star Sylko, No. 8,
in two contrasting shades. The Star Sylko is 2d. per ball, so that one tie can be
made for a cost of 3fd.
Instructions. — Long End of Tie.
With the light shade of silk, cast on 36 stitches, that is, 12 on each of three
needles, or as many as will produce knitting measuring 3 in. round. The number
of stitches chosen must be divisible by 2.
1st Round. — Knit plain.
122 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
2nd Round.— Knit 1 purl 1 all the way round. Repeat the first and second
rounds alternately until f in. has been knitted. Finish with a knit 1 purl 1 round.
Knit 4 stitches of the first needle, break off the thread and join on with the dark
shade, working about 4 stitches with the double thread. (See General Instructions.)
Continue the pattern described above in the dark shade, until \ in. of this has
been knitted. Finish as before with a knit 1 purl 1 round. Knit 4 stitches of
Fig. 103. Striped Silk Tie.
the first needle, break off the thread and join on with the light shade. Continue
to knit alternately in this way £ in. in the light shade and \ in. in the dark, until
a length of 12 in. has been knitted.
Neck Portion of Tie.
Now decrease as follows in each needle for the part which goes round the neck :
Knit 1, knit 2 tog., knit 1, knit 2 tog., knit 1, knit 2 tog., knit 1, knit 2 tog. There
will now be 8 stitches on each needle. Knit 16 in. for the neck portion in
alternate light and dark shades as before.
STANDARD IV. 123
Short End of Tie.
Now increase as follows in each needle for the short end of the tie : Knit 1,
knit 2 into the next stitch (see General Instructions on Increasings), knit 1, knit 2
into next stitch, knit 1, knit 2 into next stitch, knit 1, knit 2 into next stitch.
There will now be 12 stitches on each needle once more. Knit 8 in. for the short
end of the tie in alternate light and dark shades. Cast off, and sew the open
ends of the tie neatly together.
N.B. — The dimensions given above are suitable for a man's tie. Modify the
lengths given to suit the purpose for which the tie is to be used.
5. BABY'S BELT.
Larger Number of Stitches on Three Needles employed.
Materials. — Four Steel Needles — size 12. 1 oz. of Andalusian Wool. Cost of
wool at 4s. 6d> per lb. = 3£d. (For other varieties of Andalusian Wool, see under
Woolcraft.)
Fig. 104. Baby's Belt.
Instructions. — Cast on 40 stitches on each of three needles, or as many as will
produce knitting measuring 13 in. round. The number of stitches chosen must be
divisible by 2. Employ second method of casting on. Work ribbed knitting,
knit 1 purl 1, for 1J in. for the bottom border of the belt. Change to plain
knitting, and knit 4 in. Change to ribbed knitting, knit 1 purl 1, and again knit
1J in. thus, for the top border. Cast off, employing the second method given.
N. B. — A body-belt for an adult may be knitted in a similar manner, by casting
on more stitches to commence, and increasing the above measurements [in
proportion.
124
KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
6. KNITTED SCARF.
New Pattern of Knitting on Three Needles taught.
Materials.— Four Bone Needles— size 9. 3£ oz. of Shetland Wool. Cost of
same at 4s. 8d. per lb. = Is. OJd. (For other qualities of 2-ply wool, see under
Woolcraft.)
Fig. 105. Knitted Scarf.
Instructions. — The following exercise may be made much easier by employing
wool of a coarser texture than Shetland. If this is done, fewer stitches will be re-
quired on each needle. The scarf may be knitted with two needles instead of four, in
which case a scarf 1 J yd. long and 9 in. wide may be knitted from 4| oz. of 4-ply wool.
STANDARD IV.
125
Cast on 126 stitches, that is, 42 on each of three needles, or some suitable num-
ber which must be divisible exactly by six. The number selected should produce
knitting measuring about 15 in. round without stretching.
Rounds 1 to 6. — * Knit 3 purl 3. Repeat from * all the way round.
Rounds 6 to 12. — * Purl 3 knit 3. Repeat from * all the way round.
Repeat rounds 1 to 12, reversing the pattern every six rounds, until a scarf
about \\ yds. long has been knitted. Cast off.
Making up. — Sew up the ends of the tubular scarf, and make a full fringe at
each end, as described under General Instructions. If preferred, the ends may
be drawn up and full tassels suspended, as in the case of the doll's scarf.
7. SLEEPING SOCK.
Increasing at the Begin>"ng and Decreasing at the End of the Needle.
taught.
Materials. — Two Bone Needles — size 8. 1\ oz. of Single Berlin wool or 4-ply
wool will knit one pair. Cost of one pair, if wool at 4s. 6d. per lb. is employed =.
9d. (For other qualities of 4-ply wool, see under WooTcraft.)
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Fig. 106. Foot of Sleeping Sock.
126 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
Instructions. — Fig. 106 shows the shape of the foot opened out flat, before the
knitting for the leg is commenced. The sock is joined together up the sole of the
foot and the back of the leg.
Foot of Sock.
Commence at the bottom of the sole along AB as follows : Cast on 42 stitches,
or as many as will give a width of 7 in. without stretching. Commence immedi-
ately to increase at each end of the work as follows : knit 1, make a stitch by
Fig. 107. Sleeping Sock.
knitting into the front and back of the second stitch (see General Instructions on
Increasings), and then do plain knitting all along the row. Repeat this row seven
more times, always slipping the commencing stitch of every row after the first.
There will now be 50 stitches on the needle, and the strip will slope outwards at
each end, that is, along BD and AC.
Now make a stitch at the commencement of alternate rows only. Continue
to do this until there are 56 stitches on the needle. The outward slope is thus
continued at one end of the work only, viz., along BD. The short slope at the
other end, along AC, forms the shape for the heel.
STANDARD IV. 127
Slip off now, on to a piece of wool, 24 stitches from the " Heel " end of the
needle, that is, along MK. This leaves 32 stitches on the needle. Knit 32 rows
of plain knitting, i.e., about 3 in., on these 32 stitches to form the top of the foot.
Now cast on 24 more stitches along JL. There will again be 56 stitches on the
needle. Knit along this row plain, until three stitches only are left at the end. Then
knit 2 together, knit 1. Knit the next row plain. This decreasing at one end
will give the slope EF. Continue to decrease in this manner at the ends of alter-
nate rows, until the stitches are reduced to 50. Now decrease at the end of every
row, thus continuing the long slope EF, and producing the short slope HG.
Continue this until there are 42 stitches on the needle. Cast off.
Leg of Sock.
Take up on the needle the 24 stitches along MK, which were slipped on to
the piece of wool. Next take up, on the same needle, the 16 loops along KJ at the
ends of the 32 rows which form the top of the foot. Lastly, take up the 24 loops
along JL where the 24 stitches were cast on. This produces 64 stitches altogether,
and on these the leg is knitted from the foot upwards.
Join on the wool, and knit six plain rows, slipping the first stitch of each row.
Change to ribbing of knit 1 purl 1, and do 3 in. of this pattern. Knit eight rows
of plain knitting. Change again to knit 1 purl 1, and do three more in hes.
Knit eight more rows of plain knitting, and cast off.
Making up. — Sew together neatly the seam up the sole of the foot and the
back of the leg. After the point E has been joined to D, flatten the foot so that
the seam is under the centre of it (see Fig. 107), before sewing up the seam at the
toe, which is square-shaped. Turn the work on to the right side. (The portion
from E to D may be gathered up to form a round toe, if preferred.)
8. LADY'S BEDROOM SLIPPER.
New Ornamental Pattern Taught.
Materials. — A Bone Crochet Hook — medium size. Two Steel Needles — size 12.
4 oz. Double Fingering or Coat Wool. 1£ yds. ribbon about £ in. wide. A pair
of light soles. Cost, using wool at 3s. lid. per lb., and soles at Is. 2d. per pair =
2s. 3d. (For other qualities of thick wool, see under Woolcraft.)
Instructions. — Cast on 36 stitches, or as many as will produce knitting 5 J in.
wide without stretching. The number of stitches selected must be divisible by 2.
1st Row. — Plain.
2nd Row. — Purl.
3rd Row. — SI. 1,* k. 2 tog., repeat from * until the last stitch is reached ; knit
the last stitch.
4th Row. — SI. 1, * pick up the thread between the last and next stitches and
knit it, k. 1 ; repeat from * until the last two stitches are reached ; knit the last
two stitches. (See enlarged illustration of stitch in Fig. 109.) These four rows
really complete the pattern ; but, in order to avoid producing a sloping edge, the
great disadvantage in a pattern of this kind, a slight variation is made in the last
row of each alternate pattern. Thus : —
8th Row. — SI. 1, * k. 1, pick up the thread between the stitches and knit it ;
repeat from * till the last stitch is reached, k. the last stitch.
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STANDARD IV. 129
12th Row. — Like 4th row.
16th Row. — Like 8th row.
20th Row. — Like 4th row.
Continue working the pattern on this plan until 14 in., or 44 patterns, have
been knitted.
For the Toe Piece.
Cast off the first 12 stitches of the row, i.e., \ of the total width, leaving 24
stitches on the needle. Continue to work the pattern on these 24 stitches 12
times more. Cast off.
Fig. 109. Pattern of Bedroom Slipper Enlarged to Show Details.
Making up. — (See diagram of Doll's Slipper — Fig. 73.) Sew the inside edge
BC of the narrow toe-piece to the edge ED at the end of the work where the knit-
ting was commenced. It will be found that, when the join has been made, about
1J in. of the wider rectangle will be left over. This portion corresponds with the
12 stitches cast off on the opposite side of the slipper before knitting the toe-piece.
The border thus left is turned down as shown in Fig. 108.
Finishing the edge. — Work picots all round the edge of the turn-down border,
as follows : d.c. into first stitch of the border, * chain 4, go back into the first
of the 4 chain and make a d.c. ; secure the picot by a d.c. into the edge a few
stitches along. Repeat from * all round.
Drawing wp the slipper. — This pattern produces a series of holes through which
ribbon may be passed underneath the turn-down border. A bow may be tied
in front.
9— (8l5El
130 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
Securing the sole. — Turn the knitted portion on to the wrong side, and sew it
on to the upper side of the sole so that the point F will form the toe of the shoe
Then turn it up into its proper position.
Simpler Pattern for Slipper.
An easy slipper of the same dimensions may be made by employing the same
number of stitches, and substituting plain knitting for the pattern described above.
9. WOOLLEN BONNET FOR CHILD'S OWN WEAR.
New Pattern taught for Border, and " Heel Back " introduced as an
Exercise' Preparatory to Knitting Socks.
Materials. — Two Bone Needles — size 11. If oz. Single Berlin Wool, or 4-ply
wool. Cost of same at 4s. 6d. per lb. = 6£d. (For other qualities of 4-ply wool,
see Woolcraft.)
Instructions. — The bonnet described below will fit a child of about 10 years.
If coarser needles are used, the same number of stitches may be employed to pro-
duce a larger bonnet. It will not prove a difficult matter, however, to vary the
number of stitches and the dimensions to suit the requirements of individual
children.
Turned Back Border.
Cast on 100 stitches, or as many as will give a width of 15 in. unstretched
Knit 4 plain rows, slipping the first stitch of all rows after the first.
5th Row. — Slip the first stitch, * make a stitch (employ Second Method, General
Instructions), knit 2 together. Repeat from * to the end of the row, knitting the last
stitch plain. Knit 3 plain rows. (For counting of rows, see General Instructions.)
9th Row. — Work in the same manner as the 5th row. Knit 3 plain rows.
13th Row. — The same as the 5th row. Knit 3 plain rows.
17th Row. — The same as the 5th row. Knit 3 plain rows.
21st Row. — The same as the 5th row. This completes the turned-back border.
N.B. — A still more ornamental effect may be produced by knitting 1 plain
row instead of 3 between the openwork rows.
Part to Fit round Head.
Knit about 5i in. of plain knitting. (If possible fit the bonnet at this stage
on the girl for whom it is being made, in order to ascertain the exact length of
plain knitting required.)
Turning for Back.
1st Row of Turning. — Knit 35 stitches, knit 2 together, knit 26 stitches, knit
2 together, and turn the work completely round without finishing the pin. (If
the number of stitches on the needle has been reduced, decrease these numbers
proportionately . )
2nd Row of Turning. — Slip the first stitch on to the right-hand needle, knit
26 stitches, knit 2 together, and again turn the work completely round. Repeat
the 2nd row of turning, until only 28 stitches remain on the needle. Cast off.
Making up. — The bonnet shown in the illustration has been decorated with
the following crochet border : —
1st Row of Border. — Join on the wool, work 3 chain (to form a tr.), and 1 tr.
into a stitch, ch. 2, and work 2 more tr. into the same st., * miss 2 st., 2 tr. into I
STANDARD IV.
131
next St., ch. 2, and work 2 more tr. into the same stitch. Repeat from * all round
the edge of the bonnet. (If the bonnet has been very tightly knitted, it will be
advisable to miss three stitches before repeating the trebles, or the border will be
too full.)
2nd Row of Border. — Make picots all round the first border, as follows : 1
double crochet into a stitch, * chain 3, go back and make a double crochet into
the first of the 3 chain, miss a stitch, and secure the picot by a double crochet
into the next stitch. Repeat from * all round the border. If this seems too full
miss two stitches occasionally instead of one.
Ribbon may be run through this border and finished with rosettes at the
ends, as shown in Fig. 110. This forms a dainty finish to the bonnet.
N.B. — A simpler edging, such as that described under Doll's Crocheted Petticoat
(St. Ill), may be substituted, if desired.
Fig. 110. Woollen Bonnet for Child's Own Wear.
132 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
10. WOOLLEN HAT KNITTED ON THREE NEEDLES.
Exercise Preparatory to Knitting the Toe of a Stocking. New Pattern
TAUGHT.
Materials. — Four Bone Knitting-needles — size 9. One Button-mould about 1 J in.
in diameter. 1£ oz. 4-ply knitting wool. Cost, employing wool at 5s. per lb. = 6d.
(For other qualities of suitable wool, see under Woolcraft.)
Fig. 111. Woollen Hat Knitted on Three Needles.
Instructions. — The brim consists of a double fold. The knitting is commenced
at the under part of this fold, and finished at the centre of the top of the hat.
Cast on 132 st. (or as many as will produce knitting measuring 21 in. round), i.e.,
44 on each of three needles. Use the second method given in General Instructions.
Under-fold of Brim.
1st Row. — Purl all round.
2nd Row. — * K. 2, p. 2 ; repeat from * all round. Repeat these two rows
six times more. This completes the under-fold.
15th Row. — Purl all round.
16th Row. — Knit all round.
Repeat the above two rows again. The four rows just completed form a
natural fold between the under and upper parts of the brim. Instead of
working these four rows, the ribbing may be continued unbroken, if preferred.
STANDARD IV. 133
Upper Part of Brim.
Work the same pattern as for under part for 18 rounds. To form another
natural fold between the brim and the crown, work four more rounds similar
to the 15th, 16th, 17th, and 18th rounds.
Crown.
1st Row. — * K. 1, p. 1 ; repeat from * all round.
2nd Row. — Plain all round.
3rd Row. — Plain all round.
Repeat these three rows until 40 rounds of the crown have been completed.
Decreasings.
1st Round. — * K. 1, k. 2 tog., k. 16, k. 2 tog., k. 1 ; repeat from * all round.
There will be six pairs of decreasings in the round. The second decreasing of
each pair may be done by the " Pulling-over " method. (See General Instructions
on Decreasings.)
2nd Round. — Plain.
3rd Round. — * K. 1, k. 2 tog., k. the pattern for 14 st., k. 2 tog., k. 1 ; repeat
from * all round.
4th Round.— r-Plaia.
5th Round. — * K. 1, k. 2 tog., k. 12, k. 2 tog., k. 1 ; repeat from * all round.
6th Round. — K. 2, p. 1 ; k. 1, p. 1 for 10 st. ; * k. 5 (to cover the section where
the decreasings are being made), p. 1 ; k. 1, p. 1 for 10 st. ; repeat from * all
round.
7th Round.—* K. 1, k. 2 tog., k. 10, k. 2 tog., k. 1 ; repeat from * all round.
8th Round.— Plain.
It will be obvious by this time that the cap is being narrowed off in six sections,
and that six ribs of plain knitting separate the sections from one another. Con-
tinue to narrow off on the same plan until only 4 stitches remain upon each needle.
Then cast off as follows : Break off the wool leaving an end measuring about
10 in. in length. Pass each of the stitches in turn on to this wool by means of
knitting each stitch, and then drawing the end of the wool right through. Take
the end of wool left through to the wrong side of the cap, and finish it off neatly
by means of knitting or darning it in. (See General Instructions on Casting-off
from Three Needles.)
Covering for Button.
This is done in plain knitting. Cast on 5 st. Knit 1 row plain. Make a
stitch at the beginning of each succeeding row until there are 16 st. on the needle.
(See Fifth Method of Increasing, General Instructions.) Knit 5 rows without further
increasings.
Now begin to decrease by knitting two together at the beginning of every row.
Continue this until only 5 st. remain upon the needle. Cast off.
Making and Placing on of Button.
In order to hide the wood completely, a thin covering of cotton-wool may be
placed over the button-mould before covering it with the knitted circle. Sew
the button in the centre of the crown to complete the cap.
To Simplify this Hat.
It will have been noticed in the above instructions that the chief difficulty
is that of keeping the pattern going correctly when stitches are being removed
by decreasings. If the teacher wishes to simplify the work, the cap may be knitted
134 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
plain after the completion of the brim. The decreasings will then be carried out
as follows —
1st Round.—* K. 1, k. 2 tog., k. 16, k. 2 tog., k. 1 ; repeat from * all round.
2nd Round. — Plain.
3rd Round.—* K. 1, k. 2 tog., k. 14, k. 2 tog., k. 1 ; repeat from * all round.
4th Round. — Plain.
5th Round.—* K. 1, k. 2 tog., k. 12, k. 2 tog., k. 1 ; repeat from * all round.
6th Round. — Plain.
Continue the decreasings in this way, i.e., in six gradually narrowing sections,
until only 4 st. remain on each needle. Cast off.
n. SMALL GIRL'S CROCHETED STAYS.
Increasings and Decreasings taught.
Materials. — Fine Bone Crochet Hook. 4 oz. of No. 4 Knitting Cotton. Cost
of Stays, if knitting cotton at 2s. per lb. is employed = 6d.
Fig. 112. Small Girl's Crocheted Stays.
Instructions. — The little stays described below will fit a child of four or five
years of age.
First Half of Back.
Commence at the centre of the back by making a loose chain about 9 in. in
length. (The exact depth required should be determined by actual measurement
of the child for whom the article is intended.)
STANDARD IV. 135
1st Row. — Commence with the second chain from the hook, and work 1 double
crochet into each of the remaining chain stitches along the row. Make 1 chain
and turn.
2nd Row. — Taking up the back thread only, work 1 double crochet into each
stitch of the previous row. Make 1 chain and turn. (N.B. — As it is a rather
difficult matter to keep the edges at the top and bottom quite level, it is a good
plan to let the children count their stitches each row, to see that the number
remains constant.) Repeat the second row until about 4J in. has been worked
to form one half-back.
Decreasings for Armhole.
1st Row. — Turn with no chain, work 1 double crochet into the second stitch
of the previous row, and 1 double crochet into each remaining stitch along the row.
Make 1 chain and turn.
2nd Row. — Work 1 double crochet into each stitch of the previous row. Con-
tinue to decrease by repeating the first and second rows alternately, until the
work has been shortened by 2J in., that is, from 9 in. to 6J in. (The depth of
this downward curve may easily be varied to suit individual wearers.)
Increasings for Upward Curve of Armhole.
1st Row. — Make 3 chain, work 1 double crochet into each of the second and
third chains, and then 1 double crochet into each stitch of the previous row. Make
1 chain and turn.
2nd Row. — Work 1 double crochet into each stitch of the previous row. Repeat
the first and second rows of the increasings alternately, until the work is again
9 in. in depth.
Front of Stays.
For the front, work exactly as described under the first half-back, until a dis-
tance of about 8£ in. has been worked from the first armhole. (Again determine
the exact size required by measurement.)
Second Armhole.
Work as described under first armhole.
Second Half of Back.
Work as described under the first half-back. Cut the thread, and fasten off
neatly.
Shoulder-straps.
Work each shoulder-strap as follows : Make a chain about 7 in. in length.
1st Row. — Commence with the second chain from the hook, and work 1 double
crochet into each of the remaining chain stitches along the row. Make 1 chain
and turn.
2nd Row. — Work 1 double crochet into each stitch of the previous row, taking
up the back thread only. Make 1 chain and turn. Repeat the first and second
rows alternately, until the strap is about 1 in. wide.
Making up. — Sew the shoulder-straps to the tops of the armholes, as shown
in the illustration. Sew on tapes for fastening purposes, as described under
Exercise 3, Standard III, " Baby's Knitted Stays." Press-studs, or loops and
buttons may be employed, if preferred.
136 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
12. CROCHETED HAIR-BAND FOR GIRL'S OWN WEAR.
Treble Stitch taught.
\ "" Materials. — Coarse Steel Crochet Hook — about size 2. £ of a ball of " O-So-
Silkie," medium size, or fine Knitting Cotton. One ball of " O-So-Silkie " costs 2d.,
and will make three Hair-bands.
Fig. 113. Crocheted Hair-Band for Child's Own Wear.
Instructions. — Crochet a loose chain long enough to fit over the top of the
girl's head. The number of chain made for the hair-band shown in the illustration
was 60, and the length was 1 1 inches.
lst t Row. — Work double crochet into each stitch of the chain except the first,
and do 3 chain to turn.
2nd Row. — Do 1 treble into the second stitch, * 1 chain, miss a stitch, 1 treble
into the next stitch. Repeat from * all along the row, doing trebles with 1 chain
between in alternate stitches. Do 1 chain to turn.
3rd Row. — Work double crochet into every stitch of the chain.
4th Row. — The same as the second row.
5th Row. — The same as the third row. Cut the thread, draw the end through,
and fasten off securely.
Making up. — Run ribbon through the holes formed by the pattern, and decorate
the ends with rosettes. Elastic of the length required to fit under the child's hair
should be sewn to the ends of the hair-band.
13. CROCHETED SHAWL (SIMPLE PATTERN).
Use of Double Crochet in Making Larger Article.
The instructions for this are given under No. 15 (b) of Standard II Syllabus.
14. GIRL'S CROCHETED HAT (SIMPLE PATTERN).
Use of Double Crochet in Making a Larger Article for Girl's Own
Wear.
The instructions for this are given under No. 16 (b) of Standard II Syllabus.
15. GIRL'S CROCHETED BONNET (SIMPLE PATTERN). ,
Use of Treble Stitch in Making a Larger Article for Girl's Own
Wear.
The instructions for this are given under No. 15 (b) of Standard III Syllabus.
STANDARD V.
i. CHILD'S KNITTED STOLE OR MUFFLER.
Method of Making Loops taught.
Materials. — Two Steel Needles — size 14. 3 oz. of Single Berlin Wool, or 4-ply
wool. Cost of same at 4s. 6d. per lb. = 10£d. (For other qualities of 4-ply wool
seejunder Woolcraft.)
Fig. 114. Child's Knitted Stole.
137
138 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
Instructions. — The stole described below will fit a child of from four to eight
years. Cast on 24 stitches, or as many as will give a width of 4J inches.
1st Row.—Knit plain.
2nd Row. — Insert the needle in the first stitch, bring the wool forward over
the top of the right-hand needle, and pass it twice round the needle and the first
two fingers ; then knit the stitch in the ordinary way. This produces the loops
shown in the illustration. Repeat the process in every stitch along the row.
3rd, 4th, and 5th Rows. — Knit plain. The third row will prove rather difficult
knitting, as each stitch is of treble thickness, owing to the method of loop formation
employed in the second row.
Repeat the 2nd, 3rd, 4th, and 5th rows in order, until about 30 in. has been
knitted. The stole should be fitted on the child for whose wear it is intended,
in order to ascertain the exact length required. Cast off loosely.
Making up. — Flatten out the knitting, and cut a double layer of cotton-wool
to fit against the wrong side. Sew this wadding into position at the two ends. Now
fold the two long edges of the stole together, thus forming a tubular padded muffler,
with the loops on the outside. Sew neatly together these two long edges, and also
the two short edges at the ends. Decorate the two ends of the stole with crocheted
chain and pompoms as shown in the illustration. (See General Instructions.)
• N. B. — A cheaper muffler or ruffle, involving less work than the above, may be
made by knitting only a sufficient length to reach round the child's neck.
Attach ribbons to the ends, so that the ruffle may be fastened by tying these
ribbons in a bow at one side of the chin.
A length of knitting of about 14 or 15 in. will be found sufficient. Fit the
muffler on to the neck of the child for whose wear it is intended, in order to
ascertain the exact length required.
2. CHILD'S KNITTED MUFF.
Second Exercise in Making Loops.
Materials. — Two Steel Needles — size 14. 2\ oz. of Single Berlin Wool or 4-ply
wool. Cost of same at 4s. 6d. per lb. = 9d. (For other qualities of 4-ply wool,
see Woolcraft.)
Instructions. — The muff described below will fit a child of from four to eight
years. Its finished appearance is shown in Fig. 114(a).
Cast on 40 stitches, or as many as will give a width of 8 in. Proceed to knit
in exactly the same pattern as described under the child's stole in the previous
exercise. Work about 13 in. of this pattern, and cast off very loosely. To deter-
mine the exact length required, fit the muff on the child for whose wear it is
intended.
Making up. — Join the muff into a cylindrical form on the wrong side. Pad
with cotton -wool, as in the case of the stole, and line with sateen of the same colour
as the muff. Turn in the raw edges of the lining, and sew it neatly round the
edges of the muff. Join the lining into a cylindrical form by a nicely-finished
seain. Make a crocheted chain of suitable length to suspend the muff from the
child's neck. If this should not be considered strong enough, a chain with double
STANDARD V. 139
crochet worked into it will serve the purpose. Decorate with chain and hanging
pompoms, as shown in the illustration.
Child's Knitted Muff.
N.B. — The looped knitting, described in the above two articles, is a useful
pattern for decorative borders round such articles as Bedroom Slippers, Fancy
Mats, etc.
3. BABY'S KNITTED PETTICOAT.
New Knitting Pattern taught, and New Crocheted Edging introduced
for Border.
Materials. — Two Bone Needles — size 9. 3| oz. of,4-ply wool. Cost of same
at 3s. lid. per lb. = lid. (For other qualities of 4-ply wool, see under Woolcraft.)
Instructions. — The petticoat described below will fit a baby of from six months
to one year old. If coarser needles are used, and the same pattern and number
of stitches employed, the petticoat can be made to fit a much older child. The
measurements given would, of course, need to be proportionately increased.
The pattern described below looks well on either side, though the one selected
for the right side in the photograph of the complete garment is the more ornamental.
Fig. 1 16 shows a small section of the reverse side of the knitting.
140
KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
Fig. 115. Baby's Knitted Petticoat.
Front Half of Petticoat.
Cast on 100 stitches, or as many as will produce knitting 16 in. wide without
stretching. If a garment of another size is required, vary the number of stitches
proportionately. In all cases, however, the number selected should be divisible
by five. Employ the second method of casting on described under General
Instructions, as a firm edge is desirable.
1st Row of Skirt. — * Knit 3 purl 2. Repeat from * all along the row.
2nd Row of Skirt. — Knit plain. Slip the commencing stitch of every row after
the first.
Repeat the first and second rows alternately, until about 9 in. has been knitted.
(To determine the exact length, measure the skirt against the child for whose wear
it is intended.) Let the last row of the skirt be a row of plain knitting. Now
STANDARD V. 141
narrow for the bodice, by knitting two stitches together all along the row. This
reduces the stitches to 50.
1st Row of Bodice. — Knit plain all along the row.
2nd Row of Bodice. — Slip 1, * make 1 by bringing the wool forward under
the point of the right-hand needle, and over again to the back (see General Instruc-
tions on Increasings), knit two together. Repeat from * all along the row, knitting
Fig. 116. Baby's Knitted Petticoat — Reverse Side of Pattern.
the last stitch. There will still be 50 stitches on the needle. In all cases the
number of stitches to which the bodice is reduced must be divisible by four with
two over. This row forms holes through which a ribbon can be passed to draw
up the waist.
3rd Row of Bodice. — Knit plain all along the row.
4th Row of Bodice. — Knit 2, purl 2 all along the row, finishing with knit 2.
Repeat the 3rd and 4th rows until about 6 in. has been knitted for the bodice.
As before, measure the child to ascertain the exact length required. Finish with
142 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
a row of plain knitting. Now cast off all the stitches except 12 at the end of the
needle. Keep the casting-off very loose, as the petticoat is made to slip over
the child's head. Knit 4 in. of plain knitting on these 12 stitches, to form a
shoulder-strap for one side of the petticoat. Cast off.
Back Half of Petticoat.
Knit this in exactly the same way as the front half.
Making up. — Sew the two halves of the petticoat together in the same way
as described under " Doll's Petticoat," leaving, however, \\ in. of the side seams
unsewn at the top for armholes. The neck, sleeves, and bottom of the skirt may
be decorated by a crocheted edging such as the following : —
* 1 double crochet into a stitch, miss 1, 4 treble into the next stitch, miss 1.
Repeat from *. Run ribbon through the neck and waist of the petticoat.
N.B. — If preferred, the back of the bodice may be divided from the waist-
line. In this case, employ 52 stitches, 26 on each side, taking care to work the
shoulder-strap on the correct half to correspond with the front.
4. BABY'S GAITER.
Different Method of Decreasing and New Pattern taught.
Materials. — Two Bone Needles — size 8. Two Bone Needles — size 10. 2 oz.
of Single Berlin Wool or 4-ply Wool will make one pair. Cost of wool at 4s. 6d.
per lb. = 7d. (For other qualities of 4-ply wool, see Woolcraft.)
Instructions. — The gaiter described below will fit a child of about one or two
years of age. By increasing the length and using coarser needles, the same pattern
may be varied to produce gaiters for an older child.
With No. 10 needles cast on 60 stitches, or as many as will give a width of
7J in. unstretched. The number selected must be divisible by three.
1st Row. — * Knit 1, purl 2. Repeat from * all along the row. Slip the
commencing stitch of every row after the first.
2nd Row. — * Knit 2, purl 1 . Repeat from * to the end of the row. Continue
to work the 1st and 2nd rows alternately until 27 rows, or about 3 in., have been
knitted in all.
28th Row. — Change to No. 8 needles, and commence the following pattern :
* Purl 2, and then pass over the next stitch without knitting it or taking it from
the left needle ; knit the following stitch, and draw it right over the stitch that
was passed by. Now go back to the one that was passed and knit it ; this makes
an ornamental pattern known as a " Twist." (See enlarged illustration of stitch,
Fig. 118.) Repeat from * to the end of the row.
Rows 29, 30, and 31. — * Purl 2 knit 2. Repeat from * all along row. The
last four rows form one block of the pattern. Repeat this block eight more times,
thus producing n'.ne blocks.
Rows 64, 65, and 66.— Like rows 28, 29, and 30.
67th Row. — Purl 2 knit 2, * purl 2 knit 2 together. Repeat from * till four
stitches remain, purl 2 knit 2.
STANDARD V. 143
' : 68th Row. — Purl 2, * make the twist as described under 28th row, purl 1.
Repeat from * till the last six stitches are reached. Then make the twist, purl 2,
make the twist.
69th Row.— Purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, * knit 1, purl 2, and repeat from * ; knit 2
at the end.
Fig. 117. Baby's Gaiter.
70th Row. — Purl 2/ * knit 2, purl 1 ; repeat from * till the last six stitches are
reached. Then knit 2, purl 2, knit 2.
71s/ Row. — Purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, * knit 1, purl 2 ; repeat from * and knit 2
at the end.
72nd Row. — The same as the 68th row. Change back now to No. 10 needles,
and knit 18 plain rows.
144
KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
91st Row. — Cast off 12 stitches, and knit to the end.
92nd Row. — Like the 91st row.
Now continue plain knitting, but decrease as follows in every third row :
Knit 1, knit 2 together, knit plain along the row till three stitches are left at the end.
Fig. 118. Details of Producing Twist in Baby's Gaiter.
3mit 2 together, knit 1. Continue to narrow thus in every third row, till only
12 stitches remain on the needle. Then knit 1 plain row, and cast off.
Making up. — Sew up the seam at the back of the gaiter on the wrong side.
Add a strip of elastic of the required length to go under the instep. Elastic about
j- in. wide should be used and can be obtained at 3d. a yard.
5. KNITTED HUG-ME-TIGHT OR BOLERO.
INew Knitting Pattern introduced, and more difficult Crochet Border.
Materials. — Two Bone Needles — size 7. 4 oz. of 4-ply wool. Cost of wool
at 4s. 6d. per lb. = Is. ljd. (For other qualities of 4-ply wool, see Woolcraft.)
Instructions. — The pattern described below looks well on either side, though
the one selected for the right side in the photograph is the more ornamental. The
STANDARD V.
145
appearance of the reverse side of the knitting is similar to the reverse side of the
" Baby's Knitted Coat " described under Exercise 2, Standard VII. The following
is a very simple method of making a Hug-Me-Tight, as it is formed from a
straight-edged piece of knitting shaped like the letter T.
42i"
13-4
13 i
c 8t"
At— -8V- }B
Fig. 119. Knitted Hug-Me-Tight.
First Half Front.
Commencing at the end AB, cast on 48 stitches, or as many as will give a width
of 8 J in. unstretched. The number of stitches selected should be divisible by two.
1st Row. — Knit 1 purl 1. Repeat this all along the row.
2nd Row. — Knit plain,, slipping the first stitch. Repeat the 1st and 2nd rows
alternately, until 90 rows, or a sufficient number to produce a length of 14£ in.,
have been knitted. Throughout the knitting slip the commencing stitch of every
row after the first.
10— (815B)
146 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
Back of Hug-Me-Tight.
Cast on 48 additional stitches at the end of a row, that is, along CD. This
will produce 96 stitches on the needle. Continue the pattern as before, until 84
rows have been knitted, or a sufficient number to produce a length of 13J in.
Second Half Front.
Cast off 48 stitches along EF, that is, at the same end of the needle as the 48
additional stitches were cast on. Knit 90 more rows on the remaining 48 stitches,
or a sufficient number to measure 14J in., as in the case of the first half-front.
Cast off.
Making up. — Fold down the point B to meet the point C, and A to meet D ;
sew up the resulting under-arm seam on the wrong side. Similarly fold G to F,
and H to E, and sew up the second under-arm seam. It will be seen that the
long side HA is now curved round to form the back of the neck and the curved
fronts {cf. Frontispiece). Work the following crochet border completely round the
edge of the Hug-Me-Tight, and also round the armholes : —
1st Row. — Join on the wool, work 3 chain (to form a treble) and 1 treble into
a stitch, then 1 chain and 2 more treble into the same stitch. * Miss 2 stitches,
2 trebles into next stitch, 1 chain, and 2 more trebles into the same stitch. Repeat
from *.
2nd Row. — Work single stitch to reach the hole formed by the 1 chain in the
centre of the first group of trebles. Work 5 trebles into this hole, and then proceed
to work 5 trebles into each succeeding hole right round the border.
6(A). RULES FOR KNITTING AND TURNING OF HEELS.
Preliminary Instructions to be used for Purposes of Reference when
Knitting any Socks or Stockings subsequently described.
Number of Stitches on the Needle.
This should be as nearly as possible half the total number of stitches which
were on the needles before commencing the heel. There must be a seam stitch,
and an even number of stitches on each side of it. Thus, if there were 72 stitches
altogether on the three needles of the leg, 37 stitches should be taken for the heel,
the one in excess of half the total being used to provide a seam-stitch.
Number of Rows.
Work the same number as there are stitches on the heel needle.
Method of Knitting.
1st Row. — Slip the first stitch ; knit the remainder with the exception of the
seam-stitch which is purled.
2nd Row. — Turn the knitting round, and work back along the heel-needle
thus : Slip the first stitch purl-wise ; purl the remainder with the exception of
the seam-stitch which is knitted.
Repeat these two rows alternately throughout the length of the heel.
STANDARD V. 147
Methods of Turning. — Gusset Heel.
Discontinue the seam-stitch.
1st Row. — Purl two more stitches than the number each side the seam-stitch,
(e.g., in the case of the heel above mentioned, where the number each side the
seam was 18, purl 20), p. 2 tog., p. 1.
2nd Row. — Turn the work completely round, and work back thus : s. 1, k. 4
k. 2 tog., k. 1.
3rd Row. — Turn the work round again ; s. 1, p. 5, p. 2 tog., p. 1.
4th Row. — Turn; s. 1, k. 6, k. 2 tog., k. 1.
5th Row. — Turn; s. 1, p. 7, p. 2 tog., p. 1.
6th Row. — Turn; s. 1, k. 8, k. 2 tog., k. 1.
Continue thus, increasing by one every row the number of stitches before taking
two together. Decrease the total number of stitches on the heel in this way until
there are no more stitches to be removed from the ends of the needle. The
number of stitches remaining will always be three more than the number of stitches
on each side of the seam of the heel.
Dutch Heel.
1st Row. — P. to the seam-stitch, k. the seam-stitch, p. 3 after the seam stitch, 1
p. 2 tog.
2nd Row. — Turn ; s. 1, k. 3, purl the seam-stitch, k. 3, k. 2 tog.
3rd Row. — Turn ; s. 1, p. 3, k. the seam stitch, p. 3, p. 2 tog.
Repeat the above two rows alternately until all the stitches are removed from
the ends of the needle. There will now be 9 stitches left.
Methods of Thickening Heels.
There are two methods of knitting heels of greater durability in wear than
those already described.
First Method.
1st Row. — Slip 1, and knit 1 alternately until the seam-stitch is reached ; purl
the seam-stitch, and then knit 1, slip 1, alternately to the end. The last stitch
of the row must, however, always be knitted, not slipped.
2nd Row. — Slip the first stitch purl- wise ; purl the remainder with the excep-
tion of the seam-stitch, which is knitted. Repeat these two rows alternately
throughout the working of the heel.
Second Method.
Work the heel in the ordinary manner, but knit in with the wool an extra
thread of silk or cotton. " O-So-Silkie, " or D.M.C. " Coton Perle" of medium
thickness, is suitable for providing this extra thread. It must, of course, be of
the same colour as the wool which is being employed.
1 In the case of a large-sized sock or stocking it is advisable to k. 4 or p. 4 past the seam-stitch
at every turn. There will then be 11 stitches left on the needle at the end.
148
KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
6(B). CHILD'S SOCKS.
Knitting and Turning of Heel, and Decreasings for Foot and Toe taught
Materials. — 2£ oz. of 4-ply Knitting Wool will make one pair. Four Steel
Needles — size 14. Cost, using wool at 3s. lid. per lb. = 7£d. per pair. (For
other qualities of suitable wool, see under Woolcraft.)
Fig. 120. Child's Sock.
Instructions. — The socks described below will fit a child of about four years of age.
Cast on 60 stitches, or as many as will produce knitting which will measure
about 5J in. round. The exact width should be determined by measuring round
the child's leg.
For Welt.
Knit 30 rounds or 2 \ in. of ribbing, k. 1, p. 1.
For Leg.
Use plain knitting with the exception of one purled stitch in every round for
the seam stitch. Knit 60 rounds or 5 in. of this.
STANDARD V. 149
For Heel.
Place 15 stitches (i.e., J of the total number round leg) each side of the seam-
stitch, and knit as described under Dutch Heel. There will be nine stitches left on
the heel after turning, and the last row worked will be a knitted row. In readiness
for the foot pick up 15 loops along the side of the heel immediately adjoining the
wool coming from this row of 9 stitches, and knit into each loop in turn. Knit
along the stitches left on the front needle. Lastly, pick up 15 loops along the
other side of the heel, and knit into these.
Arrangement of Stitches for Foot.
One side needle. — 5 st. from heel + 15 st. taken up along the side of the
heel + 5 st. from instep needle.
The other side needle. — 4 st. from heel + 15 st. taken up along the side of
the heel + 6 st. from instep needle.
Instep needle. — The 18 st. remaining.
Decreasings of Foot.
1st Round. — Plain.
2nd Round. — Instep needle. Plain.
First side needle. — K. 5, k. 2 tog., k. plain to the end.
Second side needle. — K. till only 7 st. remain on the needle. Then k. 2 tog., k. 5.
Repeat the above two rounds alternately, until only 18 st. remain on each
side needle.
Straight Portion of Foot.
28 rounds, or 2J- in. of plain knitting.
Decreasings for Toe.
1st Round. — First needle. K. 1, k. 2 tog., and then k. till only 3 st. remain
on the needle, k. 2 tog., k. 1. Repeat this process on each of the remaining needles.
2nd, 3rd, . and 4th Rounds. — Plain.
Repeat the above four rounds once more.
9th Round. — Like 1st round of decreasings.
10th and 11th Rounds. — Plain.
Repeat the above three rounds once more.
15th Round. — Like 1st round of decreasings.
16th Round. — -Plain.
Repeat the above two rounds twice more. There will now be four stitches on
each needle. Break off the wool. Cast off by knitting each of the stitches in
turn on to the end of the wool left. Take this end through to the wrong side
of the sock, and finish it off neatly. (See General Instructions on Casting-off from
three needles.)
7. SHAWL OR WRAP OF SHETLAND WOOL.
Open-work Pattern and Border, suitable for Knitting Shawls, taught.
Materials. — 4 J oz. of White Shetland Wool. Two Bone Needles — size 11. Cost,
using wool at 4s. 6d. per lb. = Is. 3£d. (For other varieties of wool suitable for
shawls, see under Woolcraft.)
Instructions. — If worked in Shetland Wool, or other 2-ply varieties, the following
pattern produces a very dainty wrap. If a thicker wrap is required the same pattern
may be carried out in 4-ply wool on No. 8 needles. In that case fewer stitches
will be needed on the needle than those given in the following instructions.
Cast on 198 stitches, or as many as will produce knitting 25 in. wide. (In all
cases the number of stitches must be divisible by 7 with 2 over.)
150
KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
Border.
1st Row. — Purl.
2nd Row. — Plain.
3rd Row. — Purl.
4th Row. — Plain.
Hth Row.—S. 1, * k. 2 tog., k. 1, m. 1, k. 1, m. 1, k. 1, k. 2 tog. ; repeat from
* till only one stitch remains on the needle ; knit the last stitch.
6th Row.—PutL
Repeat the last two rows alternately nine times more. This completes the border.
To separate the border from the remainder of the shawl : Purl 1 row, knit 1 row
purl 1 row, knit 1 row.
Fig. 121. Shawl or Wrap of Shetland Wool.
For the Remainder of the Shawl.
1st Row. — Like 5th row of border.
2nd Row. — Purl.
3rd Row. — Plain.
4th Row. — Purl.
Repeat the above four rows until the shawl is of the desired length. A suitable
length is 50 in. when finished. Then work rows before the completing border as
follows : Purl 1 row, knit 1 row, purl 1 row, knit 1 row.
STANDARD V. 151
Border.
1st Row. — Like 5th row of previous border.
'2nd Row. — Plain.
Repeat the last two rows alternately nine times more. Then purl 1 row, knit 1
row, purl 1 row, knit 1 row. Cast off very loosely using the second method.
8. GIRL'S CROCHETED PETTICOAT (SIMPLE PATTERN).
Revision of Double Crochet, and of Treble Stitch, in Larger Article for
Girl's Own Wear.
The instructions for this are given under No. 16 (b), Standard III Syllabus.
Fig. 122; Crocheted Woollen Scarf.
9. CROCHETED SCARF.
Harder Exercise in the Use of Double Crochet and Trebles.
Materials. — Bone Crochet Hook of medium size. 3 oz. of Single Berlin or 4-ply
wool. Cost of wool at 4s. 6d. per lb. = 10£d. (For other qualities of 4-ply wool,
see under Woolcraft.)
Instructions. — Make a chain of the length required for the scarf (200 chain was
the number employed for that shown in Fig. 122), a scarf 50 in. in length.
152
KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
1st Row. — Work double crochet into each stitch of the chain except the first,
and do 4 chain to turn.
2nd Row. — Do 1 treble into the second stitch, * 1 chain, miss a stitch, 1 treble
into the next stitch. Repeat from * all along the row, working trebles, with 1
chain between in alternate stitches. Do 1 chain to turn.
3rd Row. — Work double crochet into every stitch of the chain. Repeat the
2nd and 3rd rows alternately 13 times. Twenty-seven rows will have been worked
in all. Cut the wool, draw the end through, and fasten off securely. This will
produce a scarf about 9 in. wide, which may be lengthened by making a longer
chain to commence, or widened by increasing the number of rows worked. Finish
off the ends of the scarf by adding a full fringe. (See General Instructions.)
io. VESTETTE, OR SHAPED NECK WRAP, IN CROCHET.
Treble Stitch employed in Article of more Difficult Shape.
Materials. — A small Bone Crochet Hook. 1 oz. of 4-ply wool. 3 press-studs.
Cost, employing wool at 5s. per lb. = 4d. (For other qualities of 4-ply wool, see
under Woolcraft.)
Fig. 123. Vestette, or Shaped Neck Wrap, in Crochet.
STANDARD V. 153
Instructions. — The wrap is commenced at the top of the collar, and worked
downwards.
Collar.
Make a chain 14 in. in length, or 14£ in. in the case of a large neck.
1st Row. — Turn with 3 chain, and work 1 treble into every stitch of the chain.
2nd Row. — Turn with 3 chain, and work 1 treble into the hole between the
last 2 trebles of the previous row, * 1 tr. into the next hole between trebles ; repeat
from * into every hole along the row. (There should be exactly the same number
of trebles in this as in the previous row.) Continue to work rows like the second row
until the strip for the collar is from 2 to 2\ in. wide, according to the requirements
of the intended wearer.
Front or Chest Portion.
Work with single stitch for 3 in. along the lower edge of the collar, in order
to reach the correct point to commence the working of the front, then also allow
for 3 in. to be left at the other end of the collar. The part left in between for
the working of the chest portion should measure from 8 to 9 in. Count how
many trebles there are in this middle part. It is necessary to know this in order
to decide how many d.c.'s are to be worked in each row in order to shape the neck
curve.
1st Row. — Work trebles along the first quarter of the portion allotted for the
front ; next work d.c.'s along the middle half of this portion ; then work trebles
along the remaining quarter.
(In the case of the vestette shown in Fig. 123. the number of stitches to be
worked for the chest portion was found to be 44. Therefore the first row was
worked thus: 11 tr., 22 d.c, 11 tr.)
2nd Row. — In this row the sloping off of the front is commenced by starting
thus : Work with single stitch into the first hole between trebles. Then work
3 chain to serve as the first treble ; then 1 tr. into the next hole.
By this means the number of stitches in the row will become one less than in
the previous row. Every row for the next 4 in. must be commenced in this way,
so that there is a decrease of one stitch per row.
In this second row, work two more trebles each side the centre than in the
first row, and a correspondingly less number of d.c.'s to form the centre.
(In the case of the vestette shown in Fig. 123, the second row was worked thus :
13 tr., 17 d.c, 13 tr.)
3rd Row. — Again work two more trebles on each side the centre than in the
previous row, and less d.c.'s in the centre. Continue to lessen the number of d.c.'s
in this way for each succeeding row, until only 4 d.c.'s remain to be worked in
the centre.
After this, work the rows entirely in trebles. When 4 in. has been com-
pleted from the bottom of the collar downwards, and the front portion is about
5£ in. across the width, discontinue the slope, by commencing each row as was
done in the case of the collar. Continue in this way until the chest portion
measures 1\ in. down the centre of the front, when the vestette will be completed.
154 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
ii. CROCHETED SILK NECK- WRAP.
Practice in the Method of Joining Thread in Crochet.
Materials. — A Steel Crochet Hook — size 2. One ball coloured Star Sylko or
D.M.C.— No. 8. Seven balls white Star Sylko or D.M.C.— No. 8. Cost = Is. 4d
Fig. 124. Crocheted Silk Neck-wrap.
Instructions. — The quantities given above will make a wrap of which the length,
exclusive of fringe, is 45 in. Make 80 chain, or a length of 74 in.
1st Row. — Turn with 1 chain, and work 1 d.c. into every stitch of the chain.
2nd Row. — Like first row, working 1 d.c. into every stitch of the previous row.
3rd Row. — Turn with 3 chain, and work 1 treble into every stitch of the second
row. Repeat these three rows four times more.
Now join on the coloured Sylko. (See General Instructions.) It is always
advisable to make the join in a row of d.c.'s, as it will be less conspicuous than
if made in a row of trebles. Work a stripe about half an inch wide in the coloured
Sylko, still continuing the pattern as at first described.
Cut off the coloured Sylko, join on the white again, and work a stripe about
three-quarters of an inch wide.
Again cut off the white, and join on the coloured Sylko, and work another
stripe to correspond in width with the first coloured one. (The number and width
of the coloured stripes may be varied to suit individual tastes.)
Again commence to work with the white Sylko, and continue with this until
about 40 in. in all has been worked. Now work coloured stripes to correspond
STANDARD V. 155
with those at the beginning of the wrap, and finish with a white stripe to match
the commencement.
N.B. — Great care must be taken throughout to keep the rows of exactly equal
length, or a ragged edge will be produced. Frequent counting is highly advisable
to see that the right number of stitches is still being worked on each row.
Fringing.
Finish the ends of the wrap with a fringe as described in General Instructions,
but let each knot of the fringing consist of six strands of Sylko. The finished
fringe should be 2 J in. deep.
12. CROCHETED TIE, FOR GIRL'S OWN WEAR.
More Difficult Pattern taught involving Trebles.
Materials. — Steel Crochet Hook — size 2. Two balls " Coton Perle " D.M.C. —
size 5, or " O-So-Silkie," medium size, at 2d. per ball. Cost of one tie = 4d.
Fig. 125. Crocheted Tie.
Instructions — Long End of Tie.
Commence with a chain of 20.
1st Row. — * Miss 3, work 2 treble into the fourth stitch, chain 2, work 1 treble
into the same stitch. Repeat from * to the end of the row and turn with 5 chain.
1S6 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
(Small holes will have been formed by the 2 chain between the trebles, into which
the pattern of the next row will be worked.)
2nd Row. — * Work 2 tr. into the first hole, chain 2, and work 1 tr. into the
same hole. Repeat from * into each of the four remaining holes along the row.
There will thus be five repetitions of the pattern. Turn with 5 chain. Repeat
this second row, until 15 in. has been worked. The tie is now reduced in width
as follows, to form the narrow part for neck.
Narrow Portion for Neck.
1st Row. — Repeat the pattern four times, that is, into each of the first four
holes. Into the fifth hole work 2 tr. only, and then turn with 5 chain.
2nd Row. — Repeat the pattern three times, that is, into the first three holes.
Into the fourth hole work 2 tr. only, and turn with 5 ch.
3rd Row. — Repeat the pattern three times, as there are now only three holes.
Turn with 5 chain. Repeat this third row (in which there are only three repeti-
tions of the pattern), until 13 in. of the narrower part has been worked. Now
widen for the other end of the tie in the following manner.
Short End of Tie.
1st Row. — Work the pattern into each of the three holes, and also into the
5 ch. at the end, thus producing four patterns. Turn with 5 ch.
2nd Row. — Work the pattern into each of the four holes, and also into the
5 ch. at the end, thus producing five patterns. Turn with 5 ch.
3rd Row. — Work the pattern into each of the five holes. Turn with 5 ch.
Continue to repeat this third row, until 13 in. more has been worked for the
second end of the tie. Fasten off neatly.
N.B. — If the rows are turned without 5 chain, a less picoted edge is formed,
rendering the tie more suitable for a boy. The regulation proportions of a tie
for a boy or a man are : —
Long end, 12 in. ; narrow portion for neck, 16 in. (rather less for a boy) ; short
end, 8 in.
STANDARD VI.
i (A). STOCKING FOR CHILD'S OWN WEAR.
Decreasings in Leg taught.
Materials. — Four Steel Knitting-needles — size' 14. 6 oz. Black 4-ply wool for
one pair. Cost, using wool at 3s. 9d. per lb. = Is. 5d. per pair. (For prices of
other suitable 4-ply wools, see under Woolcraft.)
Fig. 126. Stocking for Child's Own Wear.
157
158 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
Instructions. — Cast on 84 stitches. (For variation of width, see under 1 (b) of
this Standard.)
Welt.
Work 25 rounds, or 2 in., of ribbing, knit 1 purl 1.
Portion of Leg before Decreasings.
Use plain knitting with the exception of one purled stitch in every round for
the seam-stitch. Knit 8 in. of this.
Decreasings of Leg.
1st Round. — Knit until 3 st. remain before the seam-stitch, s. 1, k. 1, draw
the s. stitch over the k. stitch, k. 1, p. the seam-stitch, k. 1, k. 2 tog., k. remainder
of round. (A detailed description of each of these methods of decreasing is given
in General Instructions.)
Next 8 Rounds. — Plain. (Retain seam-stitch throughout the leg.)
Repeat the above nine rounds three times more.
37th Round. — Decrease again in the same way as in 1st round.
Next 6 Rounds. — Plain.
Repeat the above seven rounds twice more.
58th Round. — Like 1st round. (The total length occupied by the decreasings
is 5 in.)
Portion between Decreasings and Heel.
Five inches of plain knitting.
Heel.
Place 17 stitches each side the seam-stitch, and knit as described under Gusset
Heel. (See 6 (a), St. V.) There will be 20 st. left on the heel after turning. In
readiness for the foot take up 17 loops from one side of the heel, and 16 from the
other side, and knit them. (For full description of this process, see under 6 (b),
St. V.)
Arrangement of Stitches for Foot.
One side needle. — 10 st. from heel + 17 st. taken up along the side of the
heel + 6 st. from instep needle.
The other side needle. — 10 st. from heel + 16 st. taken up at the side of the
heel + 7 st. from instep needle.
Front or instep needle. — The 22 remaining st.
Decreasings of Foot.
The aim of working these is to decrease the number of stitches on each side
needle to 22, the same number as for instep needle.
1st Round. — Plain.
2nd Round. — Front needle. Plain.
1st side needle. K. 6, k. 2 tog., k. plain to the end.
2nd side needle. K. plain till only 8 st. remain, k. 2 tog., k. 6.
Repeat the above two rounds alternately until only 22 st. remain on each side
needle.
Straight Portion of Foot.
3J or 3£ in. of plain knitting.
STANDARD VI. t 159
Decreasings of Toe.
1st Round. — 1st needle. K. 1, k. 2 tog., knit till only 3 st. remain on the needle,
k. 2 tog., k. 1. Repeat this process on each of the remaining needles. (In the
case of the first decreasing on each needle, the Pulling-over method may be used.
See General Instructions.)
2nd, 3rd, and 4th Rounds. — Plain.
Repeat the above four rounds twice more.
13th Round. — Like 1st round.
14th and 15th Rounds. — Plain.
Repeat the above three rounds twice more.
22nd Round. — Like 1st round.
23rd Round. Plain.
Repeat the above two rounds twice more. There will now be four stitches on
each needle. Break off the wool. Cast off the remaining stitches by knitting
them in turn on to the loose end left, and drawing it through each one. Finish
the end off neatly on the wrong side of the stocking. (See General Instructions on
Casting-off.)
i (B). ADAPTATION OF FOREGOING INSTRUCTIONS TO
PRODUCE STOCKINGS OF DIFFERENT SIZES.
1. Determination of the Number of Stitches to Produce the Correct
Widths for the Various Parts of the Stocking.
Measure the girth of the leg at a distance of 5 or 6 in. above the knee. (This
distance, however, may be varied according to the length of the stocking above
the knee preferred by the individual wearer.) Ascertain -the number of stitches
per inch produced by the knitter. Multiply this number by the number of inches in
the girth measurement. Divide the resulting number by 3 to obtain the number
of stitches per needle. Number of stitches after the leg narrowings should be $
of the number at first cast on, and this is also the number of stitches required on the
needles of the foot after the decreasings following the heel.
2. Scale of Lengths.
The following rules enable the knitter to make a stocking to fit a wearer of
any height, provided that suitable measurements have been taken.
(1) The Leg. — First measure the intended wearer's height from the ankle to
the bend of the knee. The total length of the leg of the stocking before com-
mencing the heel must be 1 J times this measurement. (Thus, in the girl's stocking
just described, the wearer's leg measurement was 13£ in., and the length knitted
before the heel was 20 in.)
The length of the portion before the decreasings of the leg should be about £ of
the total length of the stocking-leg. (See' Fig. 127.)
The decreasings themselves should occupy about £ of the total length.
The portion between the decreasings and the heel will then occupy \ of the total
length. (In the case of the girl's stocking for which the instructions are given, it
will be noticed that 10 in., including the welt, was knitted before commencing
the decreasings, that the decreasings themselves were 5 in. in length, and that
the portion between the decreasings and the heel was also 5 in. long.)
160
KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
(2) The Heel. — The proportions for heels have already been given in the special
article on the subject. {See Standard V Syllabus.)
(3) The Foot. — The measurement of the foot should be taken from the back
of the heel, along the side of the foot to the toe. The length, from the line where
Fig. 127. Diagram Showing Proportions of Stocking.
the side-stitches of the foot were taken up to the decreasings for the toe, should
be § of this measurement. (See Fig. 127.)
The decreasings should occupy £ of the same measurement. The remaining J is
given by the depth of the heel itself.
i(c). RE- WELTING AND RE-FOOTING OF SOCKS OR
STOCKINGS.
1. RE- WELTING.
When the tops of socks or stockings have been worn into holes or torn by use
of a suspender, or in any other way, the whole welt can be replaced in the following
manner : —
STANDARD VI. 161
(a) For Socks or Stockings of Plain Knitting with Ribbed Welts. — Cut the
welt completely off immediately below the point where the ribbing for the welt
ceased. Pick out all loose bits of wool with a needle, and it will be found that
the plain knitting will unravel quite readily. Unravel just so much as is neces-
sary to leave a clear row of stitches for picking up completely round the work.
If care was taken to cut in a perfectly straight line when removing the welt, only
one or two rounds need be undone. Knit with the long end of the unravelled
wool until about 6 in. of this remains, and then join on the new wool. (See
General Instructions.)
Work plain knitting for the same number of rounds which it was found neces-
sary to unravel before picking up the stitches ; then commence to do ribbed knitting
for the welt. Continue this for the required length, and then cast off loosely,
employing the second method described under General Instructions.
(b) For Ribbed Socks or Stockings, with a Welt of different Ribbing. —
Cut off the welt as before, taking great care to cut in a straight line. Pick out
the loose ends until the stitches are quite clear and one end of wool only remains.
This will be found a more difficult process than in the case of the plain knitting,
as, owing to the ribbing, the work will not unravel directly, but the wool has to
be drawn out a stitch at a time till the work is quite level.
Owing to the position of the stitches it will be found that it is not possible
to continue the ribbed pattern of the leg without the evidence of a slight break
in the continuity of the pattern. It is best, therefore, to commence immediately
to knit the ribbing for the welt, joining on the new wool as soon as the unravelled
end has been knitted up.
Another plan is to knit two or three plain rounds before commencing the
ribbing for the welt.
2. Re-footing.
It is frequently found that the heels and soles of socks and stockings have
become very much worn, while the legs still remain in quite good condition. The
most economical plan, in such a case, is to replace completely the old heel and
foot by knitting new ones on to the old leg.
Obtain wool as nearly as possible of the same texture and thickness as that
of the leg on to which the new heel and foot are to be knitted. Proceed as
follows : —
Cut off the heel and foot immediately above the worn-out portion, which will
frequently be found to extend for 1 or 2 in. up the leg. Pick out the loose bits
of wool and unravel the work till a clear row of stitches is obtained, as described
under re-welting. Then pick them up and proceed to knit round with the end of
the unravelled wool, the ribbing or plain knitting of the leg being continued as
the case may require, until about 6 in. of the old wool remains. Join on the new
wool and continue to knit in rounds until the leg has been made up to its original
length.
Then proceed to knit a new heel and foot to match the old heel and foot exactly.
Instructions for so doing are given under the various socks and stockings described
in Standards V, VI, and VII.
II— (815B)
162
KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
2. GENTLEMAN'S RIBBED SOCK.
Decreasings in Ribbed Knitting taught.
Materials. — Four Steel Needles — size 13. Mixture wool — 6 oz. for the pair.
Cost, using wool at 3s. lid. per lb. = Is. 6d. (For other qualities of fancy mixtures,
see under Woolcraft.)
Fig. 128. Gentleman's Ribbed Sock.
Instructions. — Cast on 84 stitches.
"Welt.
Work 50 rounds, or 4 in., of ribbing, k. 1, p. 1.
Portion between the Welt and Decreasings.
Change the rib to k. 3, p. 1 . Knit 30 rounds, or 2 J in., of this before commencing
decreasings.
STANDARD VI. 163
Decreasings of Leg.
1st Round. — K. 3, p. 1, for 12 st. ; k. 2 tog., k. 1, purl the next stitch, which
is now to be treated as the seam-stitch, k. 1, k. 2 tog., p. 1 ; then k. 3, p. 1, for the
remainder of the round.
2nd Round. — K. 3, p. 1, for 12 st. ; then k. 2, p. 1 twice, the rib being lessened
by the decreasing ; k. 3, p. 1, for the remainder of the round.
Next 7 Rounds. — Like 2nd round.
10th Round. — Work the rib in the usual way until 3 stitches remain before
the seam-stitch ; k. 2 tog., k. 1, p. the seam-stitch, k. 1, k. 2 tog. ; then k. 3, p. 1,
for the remainder of the round.
11th Round. — K. 3, p. 1, for 8 stitches; k. 5, p. 1 twice; k. 3, p. 1, for the
remainder of the round.
Next 7 Rounds. — Like 11th round.
19th Round. — Work the rib until 3 st. remain before the seam-stitch ; k. 2 tog.,
k. 1, p. the seam-stitch, k. 1, k. 2 tog. ; k. 2, p. 1 ; then k. 3, p. 1, for the remainder
of the round.
20ih Round. — K. 3, p. 1, for 8 stitches ; then k. 4, p. 1 twice ; then k. 3, p. 1,
for the remainder of the round.
Next 7 Rounds. — Like 20th round.
28th Round. — Work the rib until 3 st. before the seam-stitch ; k. 2 tog., k. 1,
p. the seam-stitch, k. 1, k. 2 tog., k. 1, p. 1 ; then k. 3, p. 1, for the remainder
of the round. This round completes the decreasings, the rib is now restored, and
the method of working is again k. 3, p. 1 all round. (In all the above decreasings,
the " Pulling-over " method described in General Instructions may be used before
the seam-stitch.)
Portion between Decreasings and Heel.
Knit 25 rounds or 2 in. of ribbing.
Heel.
Place 18 st. on each side of the seam-stitch, and knit as described under " Gusset
Heel." (See 6 (a), St.V.) There will be 21 stitches left on the heel needle after
the turning. In preparation for the foot, take up 17 loops on one side of the heel
and 18 loops from the other, and knit them. (For full description of this process
see under 6 (b), St. V.)
Arrangement of Stitches for Foot.
One side needle. — 10 st. from heel + 17 st. taken up along side of
heel + 2 st. from beginning of instep needle.
Instep needle. — The 37 st. which now remain upon it.
The other side needle. — 11 st. from heel + 18 st. taken up along side of heel,
Decreasings of Foot.
1st Round. — Front or instep needle. In the case of this needle the ribbing
will be continued right up to the toe. The first and last stitches will be purled.
On the two side needles plain knitting will be worked.
2nd Round. — On the front needle the rib is continued. First side needle —
knit 1, k. 2 tog., k. to the end. Second side needle — k. till only 3 st. remain, k.
2 tog., k. 1.
Repeat the above two rounds alternately until only 19 st. remain on each of
the side needles, and 75 st. on all three needles together. (In the case of each
decreasing on the first side needle the Pulling-over method may be used.)
164 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
Straight Portion of Foot.
Work the whole of this with the front needle ribbed, and the two side needles
plain. This portion should consist of 66 rounds, or measure 5£ in.
Decreasings at Toe.
Take 6 st. from each end of the instep needle and place them on the side needles,
so that there are now 25 st. on each needle. The rib is now discontinued.
Carry out the decreasings and casting-off exactly as described in the Stocking
which forms the preceding exercise to this, but work the 22nd and 23rd rounds
four times over instead of three ; this will reduce the number of stitches to 5 on
each needle. (The length of the completed foot should be about 10J in.)
Method of Adapting the above Instructions to fit a Larger or Smaller
Foot.
The instructions given are for a man's sock of medium size. If a sock of large
size is required, the width may be increased by the addition of 4 st., or any multiple
of 4, in the case of the leg, and 3 st. or a multiple of 3 in the case of the foot. Thus,
88, 92, or even 96 st. may be employed at the commencement of the leg, and 78,
81, or 84 for the straight portion of the foot.
The length may be increased by knitting a larger number of rounds before and
after the decreasings in the leg (so that the proper proportion may still be
preserved), and also more rounds for the straight portion of the foot.
The method of apportioning the stitches for the heel has already been given
in " Rules for Knitting and Turning Heels." (See under 6 (a), Stan. V.) In the
case of a smaller sock than that described being required, the process given above
should be reversed.
3. CHILD'S KNITTED JERSEY.
Formation of Shoulder Flap, and Knitting-in of Button-holes taught.
Materials. — Two Bone Needles — size 9. Three Steel Needles — size 12. 3 oz.
4-ply wool. Five small pearl or bone buttons. Cost, using wool at 5s. per lb., =
Is. (For other qualities of 4-ply wool, see under Woolcraft.)
Instructions. — This jersey will fit a child of from one to two years of age, but, if
coarser wool and needles are used, and the same number of stitches employed, it
will fit a much older child.
Back.
The work is commenced at the bottom of the back along the line AB in Fig.
131. With the thicker needles cast on 66 St., or as many as will produce un-
stretched knitting 7J in. wide ; knit 18 rows of ribbing, k. 1, p. 1 ; slip the first
stitch in every row after the first.
19th Row. — Plain.
20th Row. — Purl. This row commences the pattern.
21st Row. — * K. 1, p. 1 ; repeat from * all along the row.
22nd Row. — Like last row. 23rd Row. — Plain.
24th Row. — Like 21st row. 25th Row. — Like last row. This completes pattern.
Repeat the last six rows 15 times more until total length of knitting is 134 in
116th Row.—K. 17 (see space CD in Fig. 130) ; cast off 32 (see line DE) to
form the back of the neck opening ; knit 10 (see line EF), and leave the remaining
stitches unknitted (see space FJ). On these same 10 stitches (line EF) knit the.
STANDARD VI. 165
pattern for nine rows, and then cast off. (The flap EFGH thus formed will have
buttons affixed, and, as indicated by the dotted line, will lap under the button-
holes which will be knitted into the portion opposite.) Join on a fresh piece of
wool, and knit the last seven stitches of the 1 16th row.
Fig. 129. Child's Knitted Jersey.
Front.
With Row. — Purl 7, cast on 42 (to form front of shoulder and neck opening) ;
purl the last 17 st. There are again 66 st. on the needle.
\\8th Row. — Like 21st row.
\\9th Row. — Like last row.
\20th Row. — K. 49, k. 2 tog., m. 2 (wool over twice), k. 2 tog., k. 2, k. 2 tog.,
m. 2, k. 2 tog., knit plain to the end.
121s* Row. — Like 21st row. Two button-holes have now been formed on the
left shoulder, to fit on to the flap EFGH before mentioned. {See Fig. 130.)
Knit the pattern until there are 16 repetitions from the neck, or until the length
166
KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
of the front is equal to the length of the back exclusive of the ribbed edge. Now
knit one purl row and one plain row before the border.
Knit 18 rows of ribbing to correspond with those at the commencement of
the back, and the line KL of the diagram will be reached. Cast off by the second
method given in General Instructions.
44"
Fig. 130. Child's Jersey.
(Collar not shown.)
The Sleeves.
Hold the right side of the work towards you, and count 20 loops or measure
4 in. downwards from the centre row of the right shoulder. Commence, at this
point, M, to pick up and knit stitches, making one after every two picked up, until
STANDARD VI. 167
you reach the 20th loop down the front, that is, the point N. There should be
in all 60 stitches.
1st Row. — Purl.
2nd Row. — Like 21st row of back.
3yd Row. — Like last row.
4th Row. — SI. 1, k. 2 tog., and then k. till only 3 st. remain, k. 2 tog., k. 1.
5th Row. — * P. 1, k. 1 ; repeat from * all along row.
6th Row. — Like last row.
1th Row. — S. 1 purl fashion, p. 2 tog., p. till only 3 st. remain, p. 2 tog., p. 1.
Repeat the last six rows till only 46 stitches remain on the needle, or until the
sleeve is 5 in. wide. Continue to knit the pattern without further decreasings
until the 61st row is completed, or until the sleeve-length is 7 in. Take the No. 12
needles and knit 20 rows of ribbing like those at the beginning, and the line OP
of diagram will be reached ; cast off as before. Knit the second sleeve in the
same way.
The Collar.
With the steel needles, pick up and knit stitches along the neck opening, be-
ginning at the 10th cast-on stitch at the front of the left shoulder (i.e., just beyond
the second button-hole). Continue picking up stitches until the end of the flap,
point H, is reached. In all, there should be 76 st. A third needle is convenient
for knitting the first few rows.
1st Row. — * K. 1, p. 1 ; repeat from * along the row.
2nd Row. — SI. 1, p. 1, k. 2 tog., m. 2, k. 2. tog., * k. 1, p. 1 ; repeat from *.
Next 7 Rows. — Continue the ribbing, k. 1, p. 1. Repeat the last eight rows
once more. There are now two button-holes made in the collar.
18th Row. — Like the 2nd row to form a third button-hole.
Next 4 Rows. — Continue the ribbing, k. 1, p. 1. Cast off as before.
Sew up the sleeve and side-seams ; secure the end of the shoulder-flap in its
place ; then sew on five buttons to correspond with the button-holes.
4. BABY'S KNITTED GLOVE.
Method of Increasing for Thumb taught. This is a Helpful Exercise
Preparatory to the Teaching of Knitted Glove for Girl's Own Wear.
Materials. — 1 yd. narrow ribbon. Four Steel Needles — size 16. 1 oz. White
Andalusian Wool for one pair. Cost, using wool at 4s. 6d. per lb. = 4Jd. (For
other varieties of suitable wool and their prices, see under Woolcraft.)
Instructions. — It should be noted that the instructions given below are for a
glove knitted in an ornamental stitch. If the teacher desires, the work can be very
much simplified for the girls by having the gloves worked in plain knitting, while
carrying out the instructions in the matter of dimensions of glove, method of
increasing for thumb, knitting of thumb, etc. The glove described will fit a child
of from 1J to 2 years.
Cast on 54 stitches, or as many as will produce unstretched knitting measuring
4 in. round.
Wrist.
Work 36 rounds of k. 1, p. 2 ribbing.
168 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
Hand.
1st Round. — Plain.
2nd Round. — * K. 2 tog., m. 2 by passing the wool over the needle twice, k. 2
tog. ; repeat from * until 2 stitches of the round remain ; then m. 1, k. 2 tog.
3rd Round. — Plain. There should still be 54 st. all round. The row of holes
made is to be used for running the ribbon through for the wrist.
Fig. 131. Baby's Knitted Glove.
4th Round. — * K. 2 tog. ; repeat from * all round.
5th Round. — * P. 1, take up the thread between the last and next stitches, and
purl in it ; repeat from * all round.
6th, 7th, and 8th Rdunds. — Plain.
The above five rounds form the pattern. Work two more rounds of the pattern
before commencing the widenings for the thumb.
11th Round. — Make a stitch by taking up and knitting the thread between the
STANDARD VI. 169
last stitch knitted, and the first stitch of the new round ; then knit the remainder
plain.
12th Round. — Plain. There are now 55 stitches.
13th Round. — Make 1 and purl it, k. 1, make 1 and purl it; knit remainder
of round.
14th Round. — P. 1, k. 1, p. 1 ; continue as for pattern for the remainder of
the round, i.e., knitting two together continuously.
15th ' ound. — P. 1, m. 1, k. 1, m. 1, p. 1. Continue the pattern for the remainder
of the round, i.e., * p. 1, take up the thread between the stitches, and purl it.
Repeat from *.
16th Round. — P. 1, k. 3, p. 1 ; knit remainder plain as in pattern.
17th Round. — P. 1, m. 1, k. 3, m. 1, p. 1 ; knit remainder plain.
18th Round. — P. 1, k. 5, p. 1 ; knit remainder plain. Continue to increase in
this way in alternate rows until there are 13 stitches between the 2 purl stitches.
(The pattern is to be continued except for the part between the purl stitches.)
Next 10 Rounds. — Without increasing.
For the Thumb.
Take 1 plain stitch before the first purl stitch, both purl stitches, the 13 stitches
between the purl stitches, with 1 plain stitch beyond, and arrange these 17 stitches
on three needles. Before joining into a ring, cast on 6 new stitches. (All the
stitches left for the hand, 52 in number, should be placed on a separate piece of
wool while the thumb is knitted.)
1st Round of Thumb. — Plain.
2nd Round. — Plain.
3rd Round. — Beginning with the newly cast on stitches, k. 1, k. 2 tog., k. 2
tog., knit plain for the remainder of the round.
Next 20 Rounds. — Plain.
24th Round. — Knit 2 together repeatedly all round, break off the wool, and
then cast off the 1 1 stitches left, by passing them on to the loose end of the wool.
Take this end through to the wrong side, and finish neatly.
For the Part of the Hand above the Thumb.
Place the stitches as follows : —
1st needle — 2 st. before the thumb, 6 new st. from the part inside the thumb,
and 14 more stitches.
2nd needle — 18 st.
3rd needle — 18 st.
1st Round.— Plain.
2nd Round. — K. 2, k. 2 tog., k. 2, k. 2 tog., knit plain for the remainder of
the round.
3rd Round. — K. 2, k. 2 tog., k. 2 tog., knit plain for the remainder of the round.
This leaves 54 st. all round.
Continue without further decreasings until seven patterns have been completed
past the thumb.
For Decreasings at Top of Glove.
Arrange the stitches as follows : —
27 on the front needle,
14 on the second needle,
13 on the third needle.
170
KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
1st Round. — 1st needle. K. 1, k. 2 tog., knit plain until 3 st. remain on the
needle, k. 2 tog., k. 1.
2nd needle. — K. 1, k. 2 tog. ; knit plain to the end.
3rd needle. — Knit plain until only 3 st. remain on the needle, k. 2 tog., k. 1.
2nd Round. — Plain. Repeat the above two rounds six times more.
Cast off as follows : Turn the glove wrong side out. Put the stitches from
the second and third needles all together on one needle. Knit two stitches together,
one from each needle ; knit another two in the same manner ; pass the first result-
ing stitch over the second ; knit two together as before ; repeat the process of passing
the previous stitch over ; continue in this way until only one stitch remains on
the needle. Break off the wool, draw it through, and fasten it off neatly. For
alternative method of casting-off, see General Instructions on Grafting. The
glove above described is for the right hand. For the left hand make the following
alteration : —
Arrange the stitches for the part above the thumb thus : 1st needle. — Start
at the 3rd stitch after the thumb, and use 18 stitches.
2nd needle. — The next 18 stitches.
3rd needle. — 14 stitches, then 6 stitches made along the inside of the thumb,
then 2 stitches after the thumb.
The decreasings described in the case of the right-hand glove will commence
at the newly-made stitches.
5. KNITTED LACE EDGING.
New Knitting Pattern taught for Woollen or Cotton Lace Edgings.
Materials. — Two Steel Needles — size 17. Crochet Cotton, No. 30.
Knitted Lace Edging.
STANDARD VI. 171
Instructions. — The following knitted edging, and the crocheted lace edgings given
under the Standard VII Syllabus, are useful for trimming underclothing made by the
girls in needlework lessons, and also for trimming fancy and household articles.
Cast on 10 stitches.
1st Row. — Plain.
2nd Row. — Knit 3, make 1 and knit 2 together three times in succession,
make 1, knit 1.
3rd Row. — Knit plain, slipping the last stitch.
4th Row.—K. 4, m. 1 and k. 2 tog. three times in succession, m. 1, k. 1.
5th Row. — The same as 3rd row.
6th Row. — K. 5, m. 1 and k. 2 tog. three times in succession, m. 1, k. 1.
7th Row. — The same as 3rd row.
8th Row. — K. 6, m. 1 and k. 2 tog. three times in succession, m. 1, k. 1.
9th Row. — The same as 3rd row.
10th Row. — K. 7, m. 1 and k. 2 tog. three times in succession, m. 1, k. 1.
11th Row. — The same as 3rd row.
12th Row. — K. 8, m. 1 and k. 2 tog. three times in succession, m. 1, k. 1.
13th Row. — Cast off 6 stitches, and finish knitting along the needle. It
will be found that again there are 10 stitches to deal with. Repeat the pattern,
commencing from the 2nd row, as many times as required.
6. BABY'S CROCHETED BONNET.
More Difficult Variations of Pattern introduced.
Materials. — Bone Crochet Hook of medium size. 1 oz. of Single Berlin Wool
or 4-ply wool. Cost of wool at 4s. 6d. per lb. = 3£d. (For other qualities of
4-ply wool, see under Woolcraft.)
Fig. 133. Baby's Crocheted Bonnet.
172 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
Instructions. — The bonnet described below will fit a baby of six months. It
can be increased in size by working a longer chain to commence with and increasing
the number of rounds before the turned-back border. Commence by making a
loose chain of 16, or as many as will measure 3 in. in length.
1st Round, — Work double crochet along these 16 chain, putting 2 stitches
into the last or corner stitch ; then continue to work d.c. along the other side of
the chain, putting 2 stitches into the last stitch as before.
N.B. — Take up the back strands of the stitches in the first two rounds.
2nd Round. — -Repeat the 1st round again, once more putting 2 d.c. into each
corner stitch. A little oblong piece is thus formed, round which succeeding rows
are worked.
3rd Round. — Work 3 tr. into the 1st stitch, * miss 2 stitches, and work 3 tr.
into the next stitch. Repeat from " till one stitch before the corner is reached.
When rounding the corner, instead of missing 2 stitches between the sets of trebles,
miss 1 stitch only twice over. Proceed then as before, missing 2 stitches between
the trebles, until the second corner is reached. Treat this in the same way as
the first corner.
Repeat this 3rd round ten more times, making 1 1 rounds of the trebles. This
completes the part of the bonnet that fits the head. Proceed now with the
turned-back border.
14th Row. — Proceed as in the 3rd round, until two sets of trebles past the
corner have been worked ; in passing the corner this time, however, miss 2 stitches
between the trebles, and not 1 as in preceding rounds.
15th Row. — Now, instead of working on, turn with 3 chain, and work back
along the 14th row, until two sets of trebles past the second corner have been
worked. Again miss 2 stitches between the trebles, and not 1 in passing the
corner.
16th Row. — Again turn with 3 chain, and work as described under the 14th row.
Repeat this row three times more. Now work the following edging completely
round the turned-back border, and round the bottom of the bonnet where it fits
to the neck : —
Work 1 d.c. into a stitch, * chain 3, go back and make a d.c. into the first of
the 3 ch., miss a stitch, and secure this picot by a d.c. into the next stitch. Repeat
from * all round the bonnet, working, however, into one strand only of the edge
of the bonnet.
Now repeat this border of picots a second time round the bonnet, working
this time into the opposite strand of the edge.
A double row of edging is thus formed, one row of which turns up, and one down.
{See Fig. 133.) Attach ribbon strings to the bonnet, and also place rosettes of
ribbon on the ends of the turned-back border.
7. CROCHETED WOOLLEN HAT, WITH BRIM.
Double Treble Stitch taught.
Materials. — Bone Crochet Hook — medium size. 1J ot. of Single Berlin Wool,
or 4-ply wool. Cost of hat, employing wool at 4s. 6d. per lb. = 5Jd. (For other
qualities of 4-ply wool, see Woolcraft.)
Instructions. — The hat described below will fit a child seven or eight years old.
It can be quite easily decreased or increased in size by decreasing or increasing
the number of rounds.
STANDARD VI. 173
Crown of Hat.
Commence at the centre of the top of the crown with 4 chain ; and join then to
form a ring.
Fig. 134. Crocheted Woollen Hat.
1st Round. — Work 2 d.c. into each stitch. (For convenience in determining
the beginning of each new round, adopt the following plan : Mark the beginning
Fig. 135. Crocheted Woollen Hat, with Brim.
(Marking beginning of rows.)
of the work with a firmly-fastened cotton of contrasting colour, and darn it in
as shown in Fig. 135 to mark the beginning of each successive row.)
174 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
2nd Round. — Work 2 tr. into each stitch.
3rd Round. — Work 2 double tr. into each stitch.
4th Round. — * Work 2 d. tr. into the 1st stitch, and 1 d. tr. into the 2nd stitch.
Repeat from * all the way round, doing 2 d. tr. and 1 d. tr. alternately.
5th Round. — * Work 2 d. tr. in 1st stitch, 1 d. tr. in 2nd stitch, and 1 d. tr. in
3rd stitch. Repeat from *, putting 2 d. tr. into every 3rd stitch and 1 d. tr. into
the other stitches.
6th Round. — * Work 2 d. tr. into the 1st stitch, and 1 d. tr. into each of the
2nd, 3rd, and 4th stitches. Repeat from * all the way round.
7th Round. — Work 1 d. tr. into every stitch all the way round.
8th and 9th Rounds. — Like the 7th round.
10th Round. — Like the 6th round.
11th Round. — Like the 7th round.
12th Round. — Work 1 d.c. into each stitch all the way round.
13th and 14th Rounds. — Like the 12th round. These three rows finish the
crown of the hat.
Brim of Hat.
1st Round. — Like the 6th round of the crown.
2nd Round. — * Work 2 d. tr. into 1st stitch, and 1 d. tr. into each of the 2nd,
3rd, 4th, and 5th stitches, Repeat from * all the way round.
3rd Round. — Like 7th round of crown.
4th Round. — * Work 2 tr. into the 1st stitch, and 1 tr. into each of the 2nd,
3rd, 4th, and 5th stitches. Repeat from * all round.
5th, 6th, and 1th Rounds. — Like the 12th, 13th, and 14th rounds of crown.
This completes the brim, which should turn up slightly at the edges all the way
round, as shown in the illustration.
8. CROCHETED PETTICOAT.
New Pattern taught.
Materials. — A Bone Crochet Hook — medium size. 3\ oz. 4-ply knitting wool.
Cost, using wool at 4s. 6d. per lb. = Is. 0|d. (For other suitable wools and their
costs, see under Woolcraft.)
Instructions. — The photograph and description are of a petticoat fitting a child
of about two years, but, by varying the length, the same method may be employed
in making a petticoat for a child of any size.
Work 120 chain, or as many as will measure 30 in., the number selected to be
divisible by 10.
1st Row. — 1 tr. into every stitch of the chain. (The back of the stitch is
always to be taken up in order to produce a ridged appearance on the right side
of the petticoat.)
N. B. — Break off the wool at the end of this and the next six rows, i.e., until
the bottom of the placket is reached. This enables all the working to be done
on the right side of the petticoat. When the placket has been completed, the rows
may be worked continuously round the petticoat.
2nd Row. — 1 tr. into each of the first 9 tr., * miss 1 tr., 1 tr. into each of
the next 9 tr., repeat from * all along the row.
176 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
3rd Row. — Miss 1 st., * 1 tr. into each of the next 3 st., 3 tr. into next or
middle stitch of group ; 1 tr. into each of the next 3 St., miss 2 St., repeat from *
all along the row.
Next 5 Rows. — Like last row. Do not break off the wool on completing the
last row of the five.
9th Row.— In this row bring the two ends of the work together, and work
straight round the petticoat. Miss 1 st., * 1 tr. on each of the next 3 st., 5 tr.
into the next or middle stitch of the group, 1 tr. on each of the next 3 St., miss
2 st. Repeat from * all round. The number of trebles in each group has now
been increased to 11.
10th Row. — Miss 1 St., * 1 tr. into each of the next 4 st., 3 tr. into the middle
stitch of the group, 1 tr. into each of the next 4 st., miss 2 st. Repeat from *
all round.
Next 5 Rows. — Like 10th row.
16th Row. — A further increase is made in this row. Miss 1 st., * 1 tr. into each
of the next 4 St., 5 tr. into the middle stitch of the group, 1 tr. into each of the
next 4 st., miss 2 st. Repeat from * all round.
9. CROCHETED CURTAIN HOLDER.
New Pattern taught.
Materials. — Fine Bone Crochet Hook. Four balls of Silkateen (standard size)
will make two Holders. The cost of the Silkateen at 2d. per ball will be 8d.
" O-So-Silkie " and D.M.C. " Coton Perle " are equally suitable materials at the
same price.
Instructions. — Make a chain of the required length. 108 chain, giving a length
of 22 in., was the number employed for the curtain holder shown in Fig. 138. If the
length is varied, make a number of chain that is divisible by 6.
1st Row. — Chain 1, and work d.c. all along the chain.
2nd Row. — Chain 3 (to count as a treble), work 4 tr. into the first stitch, miss 2,
1 d,c. into next stitch, * miss 2, 5 tr. into next stitch, miss 2, 1 d.c. into next stitch.
Repeat from * to the end of the row, finishing with a d.c.
Repeat the 2nd row three more times. At the end of the 5th row, make 30
chain for one of the end loops, carry this chain across the end of the curtain -holder,
and fix it at the opposite corner by a d.c. Now begin to work picots along the
length of the first edge of the holder as follows : * Ch. 3, go back and make a d.c.
into the first of the 3 ch., miss 2 stitches and secure picot by a d.c. into the following
stitch. Repeat from * all along the first edge of the holder.
Now chain 30 for the second loop, and carry this chain across the other end of
the holder, securing it at the opposite corner by a d.c.
Now continue the picots down the second long side of the holder. On reaching
the end, work d.c. all round the 30 chain that were made for the 1st loop. Cut
the thread and fasten the end in neatly.
Lastly, join the cotton on again at the end of the second loop of 30 chain, and
work d.c. all round this. Cut the thread, and finish off the work.
Fig. 137. Crocheted Curtain Holder.
13— (815B)
178
KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
io. CROCHETED SHAWL.
New Pattern taught, and more Difficult Border introduced.
Materials. — Bone Crochet Hook — large size. 10 oz. of 4-ply wool. Cost,
using wool at 5s. per lb. = 3s. 1 £d. (For other varieties of suitable wool and their
prices, see under Woolcraft.)
Fig. 138. Crocheted Shawl.
Instructions. — Chain 180. (This will produce a shawl about 30 in. square. If
the size is different, select a suitable number of stitches divisible by four.)
1st Row. — Take 2 treble into the fourth stitch of the chain, * miss 2 stitches,
1 d.c. into next stitch of chain, make 3 chain, 2 treble into next stitch ; repeat
from * all along the row.
2nd Row. — Turn, work 3 chain, 2 treble into the first stitch, * then miss the 2
treble and 3 chain, and work a double crochet on the double crochet in the last
row ; work 3 chain, 2 treble into next stitch ; repeat from * all along the row.
Repeat the above row until a square is formed. Fig. 140 shows the details of
pattern and border on a larger scale.
The Border.
1st Row. — One treble into first stitch of side, * 2 chain, miss about 3 stitches
along the edge of the shawl, 1 treble into the next stitch ; repeat from * all round
the shawl.
. 2nd Row.— Work the following group into the .bar of 2 chain left between
the first 2 trebles : 1 treble, 1 chain, 1 treble, 2 chain, 1 treble, 1 chain, 1 treble.
STANDARD VI. 179
* Miss the bar of 2 chain between the next 2 trebles, work another group of trebles
like the one described into the next bar of 2 chain ; repeat from * all round.
3rd flow.— Work along with single stitch to the 2 chain in the middle of the
first group of trebles. Into the 2 chain work the following group ; 1 treble, 1 chain,
1 treble, 1 chain, 1 treble, 2 chain, 1 treble, 1 chain, 1 treble, 1 chain, 1 treble (6
trebles in all). Repeat this group into the middle bar of each of the groups of
the previous row
Fig. 139. Corner of Shawl Enlarged to show Details of Pattern.
4th Row. — Work along with single stitch to the 2 chain in the middle of the first
group of trebles in the previous row. Into the 2 chain work the following group :
1 treble, 1 chain, 1 treble, 1 chain, 1 treble, 1 chain, 1 treble, 2 chain, 1 treble,
1 chain, 1 treble, 1 chain, 1 treble, 1 chain, 1 treble (8 trebles in all). Repeat
this group into the middle bars of all the groups in the previous row. When the
last group has been worked, draw the wool through the first treble of the first group
in order to finish off the corner, and fasten off the end left.
If it is desired to make the shawl more ornamental, ribbon about £ in. wide
may be run through the open-work portion between the shawl proper and the
border.
The size of the shawl may be increased by commencing with a larger number
■of chain, and also by using coarser wool and a larger hook.
STANDARD VII.
i (A). GLOVE FOR GIRL'S OWN WEAR.
To Teach the Method of Knitting Fingers.
Materials.— Four needles— size 16. 2 oz. 4-ply Knitting Wool^ for one pair.
Cost, using wool at 3s. lid. per lb. = 6d. (For other qualities of 4-ply wool, see
under Woolcraft.)
Fig. 140. Glove for Girl's Own Wear.
180
STANDARD VII, - .., 181
Instructions. — Cast on 60 stitches, or as many as will produce the width required
for the individual wearer. The number selected must be divisible by 2.
For the Wrist.
Knit 60 rounds of ribbing, k. 1, p. 1.
For the Hand.
1st Round. — * K. 6, m. 1 (by knitting in the back of the last knitted stitch) ;
repeat from * 9 times. There are now 70 stitches.
Next 12 Rounds. — Plain.
14th Round. — This round commences the increasings for the thumb. K. 30,
take up the thread between the last and next stitches and purl it, k. 40. (This
is the plan to be followed for the left-hand glove. For the right-hand glove, k. 40,
m. 1 and purl it, k. 30.)
15th Round.— K. 30, p. 1, k. 40.
16th Round. — K. 30, p: 1, m. 1 (by knitting into the front and back of the
next stitch), p. 1, k. 39.
17th Round. — K. 30, p. 1, k. 1, p. 1, k. 39.
18th Round. — K, 30, p. 1, m. 1, k. 1, m. 1, p. 1, k. 39.
19th Round.—K. 30, p, 1, k. 3, p. 1, k. 39.
20th Round. — K. 30, p. 1, m. 1, k. 3, m. 1, p. 1, k. 39.
2\st Round. — K. 30, p. 1, k. 5, p. 1, k. 39.
22nd Round.- — K. 30, p. 1, m. 1, k. 5, m. 1, p. 1. k. 39. Continue to increase
in this way in alternate rows, until there are 13 plain stitches between the two
purled stitches.
Next 12 Rounds. — Knit these without increasing. They should brjng the knitr
ting up to the root of the thumb. In the case of a girl with a small hand less
than 12 rounds may be required. The number of rounds desirable should be
ascertained by measuring the glove, while in progress, against the hand of the
child for whom it is intended.
For the Thumb.
Take 2 plain stitches before the first purled stitch, both purled stitches, the
13 plain stitches in between, with 2 plain stitches beyond and arrange these 19
st. on three needles. Before joining into a ring cast on 8 new stitches. (The
number of cast-on stitches may be reduced in the case of a child with a slender
band.) Slip the hand stitches on to a piece of wool until the thumb is completed.
1st Round. Plain.
2nd Round. — Plain.
3rd Round. — Beginning with the newly cast-on stitches, k. 1, k. 2 tog., k. 2,
k. 2 tog., knit plain to the end of the round.
Next 2 Rounds.— Plain.
6th Round. — K. 1, k, 2 tog., k. 2 tog., knit plain to the end of the round. This
leaves 23 stitches all round.
Next. 32 Rounds. — Plain. (More or less than 32 rounds may be required.
Ascertain this by measurement against, the thumb of the girl for whom the glove
is intended. The knitting should reach just to the tip of the thumb before the
decreasings are made.)
39th Round. — K. 2 tog. 11 times.
40th Round. — Plain. Break off the wool, and pass the remaining stitches on to
the loose end left. Take this wool through to the wrong side, and finish neatly,
182 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
For the Part between the Thumb and Fingers.
Pick up 11 new stitches from the part inside the thumb, and arrange all the
stitches on three needles again. (If the number of stitches cast on inside the
thumb was reduced, pick up a correspondingly smaller number of stitches here.)
Commence each round with the new stitches.
1st Round. — K. 2 tog., k. 7, k. 2 tog., knit plain to the end of the round.
2nd Round. — K. 2 tog., k. 5, k. 2 tog., knit plain to the end.
3rd Round. — K. 2 tog., k. 3, k. 2 tog., knit plain to the end.
4th Round. — K. 2 tog., k. 1, k. 2 tog., knit plain to the end.
5th Round. — S. 1, k. 2 tog., pass the slipped stitch over ; knit plain to the
end.
Next 20 Rounds. — Knit plain. (Again the number of rounds may be varied
to fit a smaller or a larger hand. The number should be determined by taking
the measurement from the root of the thumb to that of the first finger, and" making
the knitting above the thumb measure this length.)
Arrangement of Stitches for Fingers.
The 19 stitches in the centre are to be used for the first finger. (In finding
the centre of the round, regard the round as beginning in the same position as
the first round at the wrist.)
For the second finger the next 9 stitches at the back, and the next 9 at the
front of the glove are used. Pass these 18 stitches on to a piece of wool.
For the third finger pass 9 stitches from the back, and 8 stitches from the front
of the glove on to another piece of wool.
For the fourth finger pass the remaining 12 stitches on to a piece of wool.
First Finger.
Arrange the 19 stitches on three needles, but before joining, cast on 7 new
stitches. Commence each round with the new stitches.
1st Round. — K. 1, k. 2 tog., k. 1, k. 2 tog., knit plain to the end of the round.
2nd Round. — Plain.
3rd Round. — K. 1, s. 1, k. 2 tog., pass the slipped stitch over, knit plain to the
end.
Next 40 Rounds. — Plain. (Vary this number of rounds to suit the length of
the finger.) Then finish as in thumb.
Second Finger.
Take up 7 new stitches from the side of the first finger, then the 9 stitches
from the back of the glove ; next cast on 7 new stitches ,- then take up the 9
stitches from the front of the glove. Arrange them all on three needles.
1st Round. — Commencing with the cast-on stitches, k. 1, k. 2 tog. k 1 k 2
tog., k. 11, k. 2 tog., k. 1, k. 2 tog., k. 10.
2nd Round. — Plain.
3rd Round. — K. 1, s. 1, k. 2 tog., pass the slipped stitch over, k. 11, s. 1, k. 2
tog., pass the slipped stitch over, k. 10.
Next 42 Rounds. — Plain. (Vary this number of rounds to fit the finger.)
Finish as in thumb.
STANDARD VII. 183
Third Finger.
Pick up 7 new stitches from the side of the second finger ; then the 9 stitches
from the back of the glove ; then cast on 7 new stitches, and take up the 8 stitches
from the front of the glove. Arrange them all on three needles. Narrow off the
two sets of 7 stitches in the same way as described for the second finger, until
23 stitches remain.
Next 40 Rounds. — Plain. (Vary this number of rounds to fit the finger.)
Finish as in thumb.
Fourth Finger,
Pick up 8 new stitches from the inside of the third finger. Arrange these
and the 12 remaining stitches on three needles. Knit 35 rounds, or so, plain,
and finish as in thumb.
i(b). MITTEN FOR GIRL'S OWN WEAR,
Materials. — Four Steel Needles — size 16. 1J oz. of 4-ply wool for one pair.
Cost, using wool at 3s. 1 Id. per lb. = 4 £d.
Instructions. — Knit as described above under " Glove " with the following
variations : —
(1) When half the thumb has been knitted, change to ribbing of k. 1, p. 1.
Do J in. of this, and cast off. (Second method, General Instructions.)
(2) In knitting the part between the thumb and fingers, continue as in the
glove until within. £ in. of the base of the fingers. Then knit this last J in. in
ribbing of k. 1, p. 1. Cast off, employing second method.
2. BABY'S KNITTED COAT.
New Pattern introduced.
Materials. — Two Bone Needles — size 6 or 7. 1\ oz. of white 4-ply wool. Tota
cost, employing wool at 5s. 3d. per lb. = lid. (For other qualities of 4-ply wool,
see under Woolcraft.)
Instructions. — The coat described below will fit a baby of six months old and
over. If coarser needles are employed, a, larger coat may be produced by following
the same instructions. The pattern described below looks well on either side, though
the one selected for the right side in the photograph is the more ornamental. The
appearance of the reverse side of the knitting is seen in the illustration in the small
portion of the inside visible at the neck.
Right Half Front.
Cast on 36 stitches, or as many as will give a width of 5J in. of ribbed knitting
without stretching. Employ second method described in General Instructions, as
a firm edge is desirable.
Knit 14 rows of knit 2, purl 2 ribbing, slipping the commencing stitch of every
row after the first.
\5th Row. — K. 1, * m. 1, k. 2 tog. ; repeat from * and knit the last stitch.
This will produce a row of holes through which ribbon will be run.
16th Row. — Knit plain.
17th Row. — * K. 1, p. 1. Repeat from * to the end of the row.
Repeat the 16th and 17th rows alternately until 8 in. of knitting has been
STANDARD VII. 185
done. Finish with a row of k. 1, p. 1. The 14 rows of ribbing at the bottom
will be included in the 8 in. Now narrow to produce a shaped armhole as follows : —
1st Row. — K. 2 tog., k. 2 tog., then knit plain all along the row.
2nd Row. — * K. 1, p. 1. Repeat from * all along the row.
3rd Row. — Like 1st row of armhole.
4th Row. — Like 2nd row of armhole.
5th Row. — Like 1st row of armhole. The stitches are now reduced to 30.
Work eight more rows of the pattern on these 30 stitches, a row of k. 1, p. 1
alternating with a row of plain knitting.
At the commencement of the next row, which is a k. 1, p. 1 row, cast off 16
stitches for the neck, leaving 14 for the shoulder. Knit 12 rows of the pattern
on these 14 stitches, and then cast off.
Left Half of Front.
The left half of the front will be knitted in the same way as the right half,
except for the following points : —
(1) The narrowings for the armhole will be done at the end of a plain knitting
row, instead of at the beginning.
(2) The casting-off for the neck is done at the commencement of a plain knitting
row, instead of at the beginning of a k. 1, p. 1 row.
Back of Coat.
Cast on 64 stitches, or as many as will give a width of 9J in. of ribbed knitting
without stretching. Again employ second method of casting-on.
Knit 14 rows of k. 2, p. 2 ribbing, slipping the commencing stitch of every
row after the first.
15th Row. — Like the 15th row of front.
16th and 11th Rows. — Like the 16th and 17th rows of front.
Repeat the 16th and 17th rows alternately, until 8 in. of knitting has been
done. Finish with a row of k. 1, p. 1. Now narrow for the armholes as follows : —
1st Row. — K. 2 tog., k. 2 tog., knit plain all along the row until last four stitches
are reached. Then k. 2 tog., k. 2 tog.
2nd Row. — K. 1, p. 1 all along row.
3rd Row.-. — Like the 1st row of narrowing. The stitches are now reduced to 56.
Knit 14 more rows of the pattern without further decreasings, and then cast
off.
Sleeves.
Each sleeve is made as follows : Cast on 36 stitches. Knit 7 rows of k. 2,
p. 2 ribbing to form the little turned-back cuff.
Change now to alternate rows of plain knitting, and k. 1, p. 1, to produce the
same pattern as in' fronts and back. Continue this pattern until 7 in. has been
knitted altogether, including the k. 2, p. 2 for wrist. Finish with a k. 1, p. 1 row.
Now narrow for the shaped top of the sleeve in the following manner : —
1st Row. — K. 2 tog., knit plain all along row till the last two stitches are reached ;
then k. 2 tog.
2nd Row. — K. 2, p. 1, * k. 1, p. 1. Repeat from * all along the row, finishing
■with 2 p. stitches.
3rd Row. — Like 1st row of narrowing.
4th Row. — K. 1, p. 1 all along row. Repeat these four rows three times more.
There should now be 20 stitches on the needle. Cast off.
186 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
Making up. — Sew up the side seams of the coat, and also the sleeve seams,
on the wrong side, as far as the armhole curves. Sew up the shoulders. Sew the
sleeves into the armholes, putting the sleeve seam about 1 in. to the front of the
under-arm seam. Crochet the following edging down both front pieces and round
the neck : * Work 1 d.c. into a stitch, miss 1, 5 tr. into the next stitch, miss 1.
Repeat from *.
If desired, this border may also be worked round the turned-back cuffs of the
sleeves. Run ribbon through the holes round the waist, and through the holes
formed in the crochet edging round the top. (See Fig. 141.)
3. BABY'S BOOTEES.
Stitches Already Learned employed in Article of more Difficult
Construction.
Materials. — Two Steel Needles — size 14. 1 oz. of White Andalusian Wool will
knit one pair. Cost, employing wool at 4s. 3d. per lb. = 3 Jd. (For other qualities
of Andalusian wool, see under Woolcraft.)
Instructions. — The Bootee described below will fit a baby of from four to eight
months.
Leg of Bootee.
Commence at the top of the leg along GH by casting on 54 stitches, or as many
as will produce the width required to fit the individual wearer. The number
selected must be divisible by 2.
Knit 10 rows, or J in., of k. 1, p. 1 ribbing, always slipping the commencing stitch
of each row after the first.
11/A Row. — Slip a stitch, * k. 1, m. 1 (by bringing wool forward under the
point of the right-hand needle and over it again to the back), k. 2 tog. Repeat
from *, knitting 2 stitches plain at the end of the row.
12th, 13th, and Uth Rows.— Knit plain.
15th Row. — The same as the 11th row.
16th, Uth, and 18th Rows. — Knit plain. The dotted lines in Fig. 142 indicate
the decorative pattern in holes in the leg portion.
Rows 18 to 38. — 1£ in. of ribbed knitting of k. 1, p. 1.
39th Row— Like 11th row.
Rows 40, 41, and 42. — Knit plain.
43rd Row. — Like 1 1th row.
Rows 44, 45, and 46. — Knit plain.
47th Row. — Like 11th row.
Rows 48, 49, and 50. — Knit plain.
51st Row. — Like 11th row.
52nd Row. — Knit plain.
53rd Row. — Commence to narrow for the ankle as follows : K. 12, k. 2 tog..
k. 12, k. 2 tog., k. 12, k. 2 tog., and knit the remaining 12. The stitches are now
reduced to 51.
54th Row. — Knit plain.
55th Row. — Like 11th row.
56th Roiv. — Knit plain.
STANDARD VII. 187
51th Row.r- Narrow again for the ankle as follows : K. 11, k. 2 tog., k. 11,
K. I tog., k. 11, k. 2 tog., knit the remaining 12. The stitches are now reduced
to 48.
3*
-li"--
NSTEP.
LEG.
G<-
->H
Fig. 142. Baby's Bootee.
(Leg and Instep only.)
58th Row. — Knit plain.
59th Row.— Like 11th Row.
60th Row. — Knit plain.
Gist Row. — Narrow the last time, as follows : K. 11, k. 2 tog., k. 10, k. 2 tog.,
k. 10, k. 2 tog., and knit the remaining 11. The stitches are now reduced to 45.
Rows 61 to 67. — Knit plain for \ in.
Foot of Bootee.
(a) Instep. — Commence knitting for the instep as follows : Pass the 15 stitches
from A to B on to a piece of wool. (See Diagram.) Knit the next 15 stitches plain.
188 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
and then pass the stitches from C to D on to a second piece of wool. Now turn
the work round, and do plain knitting backwards and forwards on the 15 stitches
from C to B until 44 rows, or 2 in., have been knitted for the instep. Break off
the wool, leaving an end which must be darned in strongly and neatly afterwards.
Leave the 15 stitches standing, for the present, on the instep needle.
Baby's
(6) Lower part of foot. — Now arrange the stitches for the sole of the foot as
follows : On another knitting needle take up the 15 stitches on the wool from
A to B ; next take up the 22 loops or stitches along the right-hand side of the instep,
from B to E ; slip on to the same needle the 15 stitches from E to F which were
left standing from the instep ; take up the 22 stitches along the left-hand side of the
instep from F to C, and finally take up the 15 stitches left on the wool from C to D.
This rather difficult operation will bring 89 stitches all on one needle. Join on
the wool at the commencement of this needle, and work as follows : —
STANDARD VII. 189'
1st, 2nd, 3rd, and 4th Rows. — Knit plain.
5th Row.—K. 37, k. 2 tog., k. 11, k. 2 tog., k. 37. This reduces the stitches
_to 87.
6th Row. — Knit plain.
7th Row. — K. 37, k. 2 tog., k, 9, k. 2 tog., k. 37. This reduces the stitches
to 85.
8th Row. — Knit plain.
9th Row.—K. 37, k. 2 tog., k. 7, k. 2 tog., k. 37. This reduces the stitches
to 83.
10th Row. — Knit plain.
Uth Row.—K. 37, k. 2 tog., k. 5, k. 2 tog., k. 37. The stitches will now
number 81.
12th Row. — Knit plain.
13th Row.—K. 37, k. 2 tog., k. 3, k. 2 tog., k. 37. The stitches are 79 in number
14th Row. — Knit plain.
15th Row.—K. 37, k. 2 tog., k. 1, k. 2 tog., k. 37. The stitches now number 77
16th Row. — Knit plain.
17*A Row. — K. 37, k. 2 tog., k. 38. The stitches now number 76.
18th Row. — Knit 76 plain.
19th Row.—K. 2, k. 2 tog., k. 32, k. 2 tog., k. 2 tog., k. 32, k. 2 tog., k. 2.
Stitches now number 72.
20th Row. — Knit plain.
21st Row. — K. 2, k. 2 tog., k. 30, k. 2 tog., k. 2 tog., k. 30, k. 2 tog., k. 2..
Stitches now number 68.
22nd Row. — Knit plain.
23rd Row.—K. 2, k. 2 tog., k. 28, k. 2 tog., k. 2 tog., k. 28, k. 2 tog., k. 2..
Stitches now number 64.
24th Row. — Knit plain, and then cast off.
Making up. — Sew the little bootee neatly together on the wrong side. Run
ribbons through the holes at the ankle and the holes near the top of the leg. Tie-
the ribbons with bows in front.
4. BABY'S ORNAMENTAL SILK SOCK.
Difficult Knitting Pattern introduced, suitable only for the most-
Advanced Scholars.
Materials. — Four Steel Needles — size 17. Two balls D.M.C. " Coton Perle '' — -
No. 8. Cost = 4d.
Instructions. — This sock fits a child of about one year.
Cast on 68 stitches.
Welt.
Knit 30 rounds of ribbing, k. 2, p. 2.
Leg.
1st Round. — Knit plain, but make two additional stitches at some distance -
from each other, to bring the number up to 70, as the number of stitches for this,
pattern must be divisible by 14.
2nd Round. — Plain.
3rd Round. — * P. 1, k. 1, s. 1, k. 1, pass slip stitch over the knit stitch, p. 4,.
k. 2, p. 2, m. 1, k. 1, m. 1, p. 1. Repeat from * all round.
-190 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
4th Round. — * P. 1, k. 1, s. 1, k. 1, pass slip stitch over the knit stitch, p. 3,
k. 2, p. 2, k. 3, p. 1. Repeat from * all round.
5th Round.—* P. 1, k. 1, s. 1, k. 1, pass the slip stitch over, p. 2, k. 2, p. 2,
k. 1, m. 1, k. 1, m. 1, k. 1, p. 1. Repeat from * all round.
Fig. 144. Baby's Ornamental Silk Sock.
6th Round. — * P. 1, k. 1, s. 1, k. 1, pass the slip stitch over, p. 1, k. 2, p. 2,
k. 5, p. 1. Repeat from * all round.
1th Round. — * P. 1, k. 1, s. 1, k. 1, pass the slip stitch over, k. 2, p. 2, k. 2,
m. 1, k. 1, m. 1, k. 2, p. 1. Repeat from * all round.
8th Round. — * P. 1, k. 1, s. 1, k. 1, pass the slip stitch over, k. 1, p. 2, k. 7,
p. 1. Repeat from * all round.
9th Round. — * P. 1, k. 1, s. 1, k. 1, pass the slip stitch over, p. 2, k. 3, m. 1,
k. 1, m. 1, k. 3, p. 1. Repeat from * all round.
STANDARD VII. 191
10th Round. — * P. 1, s. 1, k. 1, pass the slip stitch over, p. 2, k. 9, p. 1. Repeat
Jrom * all round.
11th Round.—* P. 1, m. 1, k. 1, m. 1, p. 2, k. 1, s. 1, k. 1, pass the slip stitch
over, p. 1, k. 5, p. 1. Repeat from * all round.
12th Round. — * P. 1, k. 3, p. 2, k. 1, s. 1, k. 1, pass the slip stitch over, p. 1,
k. 4, p. 1. Repeat from * all round.
13th Round.—* P. 1, k. 1, m. 1, k. 1, m. 1, k. 1, p. 2, k. 1, s. 1, k. 1, pass the
slip stitch over, p. 1, k. 3, p. 1. Repeat from * all round.
Uth Round. — * P. 1, k. 5, p. 2, k. 1, s. 1, k. 1, pass the slip stitch over, p. 1,
k. 2, p. 1. Repeat from * all round.
15th Round.—* P. 1, k. 2, m. 1, k. 1, m. 1, k. 2, p. 2, k. 1, s. 1, k. 1, pass the
slip stitch over, p. 1, k. 1, p. 1. Repeat from * all round.
16th Round. — * P. 1, k. 7, p. 2, k. 1, s. 1, k. 1, pass the slip stitch over, k. 1,
p. 1. Repeat from * all round.
17th Round.—* P. 1, k. 3,' in. 1, k.- 1, m. 1, k. 3, p. 2, k. 1, «. 1, k. 1, pass the
slip stitch over, p. 1. Repeat from * all round.
18th Round. — * P. 1, k. 9, p. 2, s. 1, k. 1, pass the slip stitch over, p. 1. Repeat
from * all round.
The last 16 rounds form the lyre pattern. Repeat this pattern 3£ more times,
and the heel will be reached.
"The Heel.
Arrange the first 29 stitches of the round on one needle for the heel. On these,
knit a Dutch Heel as described in the rules for knitting and turning heels. (See
under 6 (a), St. V.) In preparation for the foot take up 15 stitches on each side
of the heel. (For full description of this process, see under 6 (b), St. V.)
Arrangement of Stitches for Foot.
One side needle. — 5 of the stitches left on the heel needle +14 stitches taken up
along the side of the heel.
The other side needle. — 4 stitches from the heel needle + 15 stitches taken up
along the other side of the heel.
Front or Instep needle. — 39 remaining stitches + 1 stitch at the end of the
needle from the 15 taken up along the side of the heel.
Decreasings of Foot.
1st Round. — Front needle. In the case of this needle, the pattern will be
continued right up to the decreasings for the toe. The two side needles — plain.
2nd Round. — Front needle. Pattern continued.
First side needle. — K. 1, k. 2 tog., knit plain to the end.
Second side needle. — Knit till only 3 stitches remain on the needle, k. 2 tog.,
k. 1. Repeat the above two rounds alternately until only 15 stitches remain
upon each of the side needles. (In the case of each decreasing on the first side
needle, the " Pulling-over " method of decreasing may be employed. See General
Instructions.)
Straight Portion of Foot.
Continue without further decreasings until the pattern has been repeated
2J times from the commencement of the foot.
Decreasings at Toe.
■■■ f Place half of the total number of stitches on the front needle,- and half on the
two back needles. Discontinue, the pattern.
192 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
1st Round. — K. 1, k. 2 tog., knit plain until only 3 st. remain on the front
needle, k. 2 tog., k. 1. K. 1 stitch of first back needle, k. 2 tog., knit plain to the
end. Knit along second back needle until only 3 st. remain, k. 2 tog., k. 1.
(In the case of the first decreasing of each pair, the " Pulling-over " method may
be used.)
Next 2 Rounds. — Plain.
Repeat the above three rounds sevei times more. Then narrow similarly, in
alternate rounds, until 9 stitches remain on the front needle, and also on the two
back needles together. Cast off as follows : —
Turn the sock wrong side out, and put the stitches from the two back needles
all on to one needle. Knit 2 stitches together, one from the back and one from
the front needle ; knit another 2 together in the same manner ; pass the first
resulting stitch over the second ; knit 2 together as before, and continue the pro-
cess as described until only one stitch remains on the needle. Break off the wool,
draw it through, and fasten off neatly. For " Grafting Off," see General
Instructions.
5. CROCHETED EGG-COSY.
New Pattern taught ; Practice in the Choice of Suitable Colours for
Blending.
Materials. — Bone Crochet Hook of medium size. Single Berlin Wool of two
shades. 1 oz. of wool will make three cosies. The cost of three cosies will thus
be about 3£d.
Fig. 145. Crocheted Egg-Cosy.
Instructions. — Commence with the darkest shade of wool. Work 22 chain rather
loosely, and join to form a ring. The chain should measure about 7 in. in length. If
STANDARD VII.
193
finer or coarser wool be employed, vary the number of chain accordingly, but let
the number of stitches selected be divisible by 2.
1st Row. — Work 3 chain (to count as a treble), and 3 tr. into the first St., take
out the hook, insert it in the top of the first tr. [i.e., through the top of the 3 ch.
which form the first tr.), and draw the last stitch through it (see Fig. 147 for
enlarged illustration of stitch). 1 tr. into the next st., *4 tr. into next st. (as
before, drawing the last stitch through the top of the first tr.), 1 tr. into next st.
Repeat from * all round the ring. There will be 1 1 sets of 4 tr. and 1 1 single tr.
Join the last tr. to the first set of 4 tr. by a single stitch, thus completing the ring.
2nd Row. — 3 chain to form a single treble, and 3 tr. into first hole (as before,
draw the last st. through the top of the first of the set of 4 tr.), 1 tr. into next hole.
* 4 tr. into next hole (again drawing last st. through top of first), 1 tr. into next hole.
Repeat from * all the way round.
Fig. 146. Method of Working in Crocheted Egg-Cosy.
Repeat the second row four times more, or for as many rows as are required
of the darker shade. Break off the wool. Join on with the lighter shade. (See
General Instructions.) Work three rows in this shade, or a sufficient number to
make the work 3£ in. in height.
Now close in the top of the egg-cosy as follows : Work 1 d.c. into each hole
all the way round, drawing each stitch rather tightly. Flatten the cosy, and join
together the tops of these d.c.'s by a row of single stitch to form the closed top
of the cosy.
Before breaking off the wool, make a little handle as follows : Make 12 ch.,
carry the end of this chain across to the other corner of the closed top, and secure
it by a single stitch. Now thicken this handle by working a d.c. into each st. of
the chain. Secure this end also to the opposite end of the top of the cosy by a
single st. Break off the wool, and darn the end in neatly.
jV § p. The cosy can be worked in one shade of wool only, or in three shades.
If three shades are employed, the bottom three rows should be in the darkest
shade, the middle three in the medium, and the top three in the palest shade.
13— (815E)
194
KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
6. CROCHETED TEA-COSY.
Further Practice in Egg-Cosy Pattern, and in the Choice of Artistic
Colours for Blending.
Materials. — Coarse Bone Crochet Hook. Double Berlin Wool ofj six shades.
6 oz. will make two cosies. The cost of two cosies, employing wool at 4s. 6d.
per lb., is Is. 9d.
Fig. 147. Crocheted Tea Cosy.
Instructions. — Commence with the darkest shade of wool. Work 36 chain rather
loosely, and join to form a ring. The chain should measure 18 in. If a cosy of a
different size is required, let the number of chain selected be divisible by 4. See note
at the end.
1st Row. — Work 3 ch. (to count as a tr.) and 3 tr. into the first st. — take out
the hook, insert it in the top of the first tr. (i.e., through the top of the 3 ch. which
form the first tr.), and draw the last st. through it, 1 tr. into the next St., * 4 tr.
into next st. (as before, drawing the last st. through top of first tr.), 1 tr. into next
st. Repeat from * all round the ring. There will be 18 sets of 4 tr., and 18 single
tr. Join the last tr. to the first set of 4 tr. by a single stitch, thus completing
the ring.
2nd Row. — 3 ch. to form a single tr., and 3 tr. into first hole (as before, draw
the last st. through top of first of the set of 4 tr.), 1 tr. into next hole, * 4 treble
into next hole (again drawing the last stitch through the top of first tr.), 1 tr. into
Cutting Out for Student Teachers
By AMY K. SMITH
Diplomee of the London Institute for the Advancement of Plain Needlework ; Spe-
cialist under the London County Council and at the Day Training College, Moor-
fields ; Examiner in Dressmaking and Needlework to the City and Guilds of London
Institute ; late of St. Gabriel's College, Kennington, S.E.
The book contains upwards of 260 pages, Quarto size, and is illustrated with over
360 Diagrams. Price 5s. net.
The Schoolmistress says : " The book is profusely illustrated, and affords every
conceivable help to those for whom it is written. We can most heartily
recommend it."
Needlework for Student Teachers
(FOR ALL TEACHERS AND STUDENTS OF THE SUBJECT)
By the Same Author.
The book contains 260 pages, demy Svo, and is illustrated with upwards of
200 illustrations. It has recently been revised, rearranged, and repaged. Price
4s. net.
The Schoolmaster says : "A most exhaustive manual, the style being in advance
of any work on the subject we have hitherto seen."
Blackboard Diagram Drawing for
Teachers of Needlecraft
By ETHEI R. HAMBRIDGE
Trained Certificated Teacher ; Art Teacher's Certificate ; Diplombe (Gold Seat) of
the London Institute for the Advancement of Plain Needlework.
Foolscap 4to, cloth, with 7 full-page coloured plates and nearly 300 black and white
illustrations and diagrams, 3s. 6d. net.
This work is not only a useful collection of diagrams, but contains as many practical
hints as to their effective enlargement on the blackboard for class teaching ; and
should prove most valuable, not only to the Evening School Teacher in training,
but, also, to those who are actually engaged in teaching the various subjects included
under the heading of Needlecraft. The diagrams are carefully graded.
Handwork and Needlework
By E. P. CLAYDON
Head Mistress Chuckery Council School, Walsall.
In demy Svo, cloth, 96 pages, with very many diagrams and patterns, 2s. net.
This book embodies in a practical form the suggestions for the teaching of needle-
work recently issued by the Board of Education in Circular 730. The educational
value of Needlework as a form of Handicraft for girls is specially dealt with. The
drafting of patterns is not confined to a few garments for girls in the higher standards,
but forty-eight- patterns to scale are given, graded in difficulty for children from
7 to 14 years of age.
London : Sir Isaac Pitman & Sons, Ltd., 1 Amen Corner, E.C.
STANDARD VII. 195
next hole. Repeat from * all the way round. Break off the wool, leaving an end
about 3 in. long for fastening off. This starts the opening for the handle.
3rd Row. — Join on the next shade lighter, make 3 ch. into hole in front of set
of 4 tr. (this counts as a tr.), * 4 tr. into next hole, worked as in previous rows, 1 tr.
into next hole. Repeat from * half-way round the ring, finishing with 1 tr. There
will be 9 sets of 4 tr. and 10 single tr., counting the 3 ch. at the commencement
as 1 tr. Break off the wool to form the opening for the spout. Join on again in
next hole, make 3 ch., and work exactly as in the first half of the row, but, at the
end, after working the 4 tr., the single tr. must be put into the same hole as the
last 4 tr. Break off the wool.
4th Row. — Commence with 3 ch. into first hole to count as a tr., and also 4 tr.
into first hole, * 1 tr. into second hole, 4 tr. into third hole. (Notice that in this
row the single tr. comes first, and the 4 tr. comes second. This is necessary to
keep the edges of the cosy straight.) Repeat from * along the first half of the
row, finishing with a single tr. Break off the wool. The second half of the row
is worked in the same way as the first. Each half of this row and every succeeding
one must have 9 sets of 4 tr. in it.
5th Row. — Join on the next shade lighter. Work as 3rd row. At the end
of each half-row, a single tr. must be put into the last hole, as well as the 4 tr.
6th Row. — Like the 4th row.
1th Row. — Join on next shade. Work as 5th row.
8th Row. — Join on next shade. Work as 4th row.
9th Row. — Join on next shade. Work as 5th row. Do not break off the
wool, but join the end of the 9th row with the beginning by a single stitch into
the top of the first tr.
10th Row. — 3 ch. to form a tr., then 1 tr. into each hole all the way round.
Join the last tr. to the first (i.e., the 3 ch.) This row forms a beading for drawing
up the cosy.
11th Row. — This commences the border. With the same wool * work 6 ch.,
miss a hole, 1 d.c. into next hole. Repeat from * all round the top. Break off
the wool.
12th Row. — -Join on a darker shade, just where the 11th row commenced.
"Work 6 ch., make 1 d.c. into the same hole as previous row. Repeat all the
way round as in 1 1th row. A third row of loops may be worked in a still darker
shade if desired, making a triple border. Draw up the cosy with ribbon, or by
means of a crocheted woollen chain with tassels attached to the ends.
N.B. — The Cosy described above will fit a teapot holding 1£ pts. If a larger
size is required, increase the length of the chain by four, or by any multiple of four,
and also increase the number of rows.
A Coffee Pot Cosy may be worked in a similar pattern to the Egg and Teapot
Cosies, varying the size and shape as required.
7(a). CROCHETED PERAMBULATOR COVER.
Stitches Already Learned Applied to Crocheting an Article Larger than
those Previously Made.
Materials. — A Bone Crochet Hook — large size. About 12 oz. Cream or White
Double Knitting Coat Wool. Cost, using wool at 3s. lid. per lb. = 3s. (exclusive
of ribbon). (For other qualities of double knitting wool, see under Woolcraft.)
196 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
Instructions. — Make a sufficient number of chain to extend the length of the
cover required, remembering that extra stitches must be allowed for the turn-back
portion. The number chosen should be divisible by 11. In the case of the one
photographed, it was 132 chain, and the length measured 36 in.
1st Row.—* 1 tr. into each of the first 9 ch. miss 2 st. ; repeat from * to the
end of the chain made. In every case the back of the stitch is to be taken up,
Fig. 148. Crocheted Perambulator Cover.
so that the whole rug has a ridged appearance when completed. Break off
the wool, leaving an end which is to be neatly finished off on the wrong side of
the rug.
2nd Row. — Beginning at the same end and on the same side as was done in the
previous row, miss 1 St., * 1 tr. into each of the next 3 st., 3 tr. into next st., 1 tr.
into each of the next 3 St., miss 2 st., repeat from * to the end of the row. Break
off the wool as before. This is done at the end of each row in order that all the rows
STANDARD VII. 197
may be started at the same end and on the same side of the rug. All the ridges
produced then stand out on the right side.
Continue to work rows like the 2nd row described above until the cover is of
the width required. In the case of the one shown in Fig. 148, the number of rows
was 36, and the width was 27 in. Neatly finish off all ends on the wrong side,
remembering that, in the case of the turned-back portion, the sides will be reversed.
Border.
Commence in the first stitch of one of the long sides. Join on ; make 3 ch.
(to serve as 1 tr.), and 5 tr. into the first stitch, ch. 2, 1 d.c. into the fifth or middle
stitch of the first group of 9, ch. 2, 6 tr. into the hole left between the first two
groups of 9, * ch. 2, 1 d.c. into the middle stitch of the next group, ch. 2, 6 tr.
into the hole between the next two groups ; repeat from * all round the rug. In
working along the ends it will be necessary to judge the spaces between the groups
of trebles, as there will be no holes to serve as a guide.
Finish off the cover by running ribbon through the rows of holes that go
across it, making little bows at the corners.
7(B). CROCHETED COT COVER.
Materials. — Large Bone Crochet Hook. 1 lb. 5 oz. of Double Knitting Wool.
Cost, employing wool at 3s. lid. per lb. = 5s. 2d.
Instructions. — Employ the same pattern as that described above under Peram-
bulator Cover. Make the cover about 35 in. wide, and 50 in. long. To ascertain
the exact dimensions required, measure the cot for which the cover is intended.
7(c). CROCHETED SOFA RUG.
Materials. — Large Bone Crochet Hook. If lb. of Double Knitting Wool. Cost,
employing wool at 3s. lid. per lb. = 6s. lid.
Instructions. — Again employ the same pattern as for the Perambulator Cover.
Make the rug about If yds. long and 1 yd. wide. To ascertain its exact size, measure
the sofa for which it is required, and allow a convenient margin.
8. CROCHETED HUG-ME-TIGHT.
New Pattern taught.
Materials. — A Large Bone Crochet Hook. 6 oz. of 4-ply wool. Three Pearl
Buttons. Cost, using wool at 3s. 2d. per lb. = Is. 4d. (For other qualities of
4-ply wool, see under Woolcraft.)
Instructions. — Back. The work is commenced at the bottom of the back along
the line marked AB in the diagram. Chain 72, or a length to produce crocheting
measuring 10 in.
1st Row. — * Miss 4 ch., 2 tr. into next stitch, chain 2, 2 tr. into next stitch.
Repeat from * all along the row. There should be in all 12 groups, each consisting
of 2 tr., 2 ch., 2 tr.
2nd Row. — Turn with 3 ch. which will count as 1 tr., 1 tr. into the first stitch
of the row. (The 3 chain and the treble will form half a group, and another half
13A— (8l5B)
198
KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
group will be made at the end of the row, so that the 12 groups which form each
row shall be completed), 2 tr. into the hole formed between the two last groups
Fig. 149. Crocheted Hug-Me-Tight.
of the previous row, 2 ch., 2 tr. into the same hole, * 2 tr. into the next hole
between two groups, 2 ch., 2 tr. into the same hole. Repeat from * all along the
STANDARD VII. 19&
row, and then work 2 tr. on the very last stitch of the row. These 2 tr. form the
half group previously mentioned.
Fig. 150. Hug-Me-Tight or Woollen Waistcoat in Crochet.
Front View.
3rd Row. — Work with single stitch until the first hole between groups is reached.
Then chain 3 to serve as a treble, 1 tr. into the hole, 2 ch., 2 tr. into the same hole ;
* 2 tr. into the next hole, 2 ch., 2 tr. into the same hole. Repeat from * all along
the row. There should be 12 complete groups in this row as in the first row.
200 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
Now repeat the 2nd and 3rd rows alternately until 14 rows have been done
in all.
15th Row. — In this row an increase is made as follows : Work two groups of
trebles as usual, but when the third hole is reached, work into it 6 tr. with 2 ch.
between each of the pairs, instead of the usual 4 tr. ; then make the groups as
usual into all the other holes until the tenth hole is reached ; work into this a
similar group to that worked into the third hole. Complete the row in the usual
way.
IQth Row. — In this row work an additional group into each of the two groups of
six trebles made in the previous row, by making a cluster into each of the holes
formed by 2 chain. All the other groups in the row will be worked as usual, so that
there will now be 14 groups in the row.
Now continue to work these longer rows of 14 groups until 35 rows, or 12 in.,
have been worked in all. This completes the back.
Right Shoulder and Front.
Work 5 groups of the 36th row, and then turn round and work back along
these 5 groups. Continue working these short rows until 15 rows, each consisting
of 5 groups, have been worked.
IQth Row. — The first increasing for the front is made in this row. Wore 3
groups of trebles in the usual way, but, when the fourth hole is reached, work
6 trebles into it as described in the increasings of the back. Work the fifth group
in the usual way.
nth Row. — In this row work an additional group into the group of 6 trebles,
by making a group in each of the holes formed by 2 chain. There will now be
6 groups in the row. Work 6 more rows each consisting of 6 groups.
2Ath Row. — Increase again as before. Then work 7 rows of 7 groups.
32nd Row. — Increase again in exactly the same way as in the 16th row. Work
7 rows with 8 groups in each row, or as many as will make up a length of 15 in. from
the commencement of the shoulder. This completes the right front as far as the
line DC of diagram.
Left Shoulder and Front.
Work this on exactly the same principle as the right shoulder and front until
the line FE is reached. As in the case of the right front, the increasings should
be made near the ends of the rows, farthest from the armhole.
Border.
By means of the border, the jacket may be adapted to suit a stout or slim figure
For a slim figure as few as two rows of the border may be worked, and for a stout
figure as many as six rows. The hug-me-tight shown in the photograph is made
to suit a figure with an outside waist measurement of 26 in., and the border for
this size consists of four rows, i.e., 1£ in.
1st Row. — Two d.c. into the hole formed by the 2 chain in the middle of the
first group, * 3 chain, 2 d.c. into the hole in the middle of the next group. Repeat
from * round the whole of the jacket as indicated by the dotted line in the diagram.
Repeat the 2 d.c. twice into the hole at each of the corners.
2nd Row. — Three tr. into each of the holes formed by the 3 ch. of previous
row, and 2 ch. between each group of 3 tr. Repeat the 3 tr. twice in the hole
STANDARD VII. 201
at each of the corners. In working along the back of the neck, draw in the work
by making 1 ch. instead of 2 ch. between each group of 3 tr.
3rd Row. — Like last row, placing a group of 3 tr. into each of the holes formed
by the 2 chain.
4th Row. — * Two tr. into a hole, 2 chain, 2 tr. into the same hole. Repeat
from * all round the hug-me-tight.
Fig. 151. Hug-Me-Tight or Woollen Waistcoat in Crochet.
Back View. (Reduced Scale.)
Making up. — Fold the garment so that the point K lies over the point G, and
the point J over the point H, and sew up the side seams on the wrong side of the
garment, for a sufficient distance to leave convenient openings for the armholes.
Turn the garment on to the right side and sew three buttons on the left-hand
side of the front opening at its lower end. The holes formed by the pattern of
the border may be used as button-holes.
202 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
9. FIRST LACE EDGING IN CROCHET. (FOR TRIMMING
UNDERWEAR, AND FANCY ARTICLES.)
Simple Pattern in Crochet Cotton taught.
Materials. — Steel Crochet Hook — size 5. Crochet Cotton, No. 24.
Instructions. — Commence with 7 chain.
1st Row. — Turn with 8 chain, 1 tr. into the 7th chain, (i.e., into the last of
the foundation chain), 3 ch., 1 tr. into same stitch, 3 ch., miss 2, 1 tr. into next
St., 3 ch., miss 2, 1 tr. into first stitch of chain.
2nd Row. — Turn with 6 ch., 1 tr. on top of last treble but one in previous row,
3 ch., 1 tr. on next tr., 5 tr. into space, and 1 tr. into next tr. (thus making a group
of 7 tr.), 3 ch. and 1 tr. into the 3rd of the group of chain at the commencement
of the previous row.
Fig. 152. First Lace Edging in Crochet.
3rd Row. — Turn with 6 ch., 1 tr. on to the first tr. of the group of 7 tr., 3 ch.
and 1 tr. into the same st., 3 ch. 1 tr. on to the middle of the 7 tr., 3 ch. 1 tr. on
to the last of the 7 tr.
Repeat the second and third rows alternately, until the desired length has been
obtained.
10. SECOND LACE EDGING IN CROCHET.
More Difficult Pattern taught.
Materials. — Steel Crochet Hook — size 5. Crochet Cotton, No. 24.
Instructions. — Commence with 10 chain.
1st Row. — Turn with 5 ch., work 3 tr. into the 10th ch., (i.e., into the last of
the foundation chain), miss 2 ch., * 3 tr. into next ch., miss 2, and repeat from *.
This results in four sets of 3 tr.
2nd Row. — Turn with 5 ch., make a d.c. into space between the two last sets
of trebles in the previous row, * make 5 ch. and a d.c. into next space. Repeat
from *. This results in four sets of 5 ch. In attaching the last 5 ch., pass the
hook through the middle stitch of the 5 ch. of the previous row. Do this in every
row which ends with 5 ch. in order to produce a firm and regular edge.
3rd Row. — Turn with 5 ch., make a d.c. into first hole, * 5 ch. and a d.c. into
STANDARD VII. 203
next hole. Repeat from *. This makes four sets of 5 ch. Now make 6 ch., and
attach with a d.c. into the hole where the last set of 4 tr. was placed in the 1st row
of the pattern.
4th Row. — Turn round, and work 3 tr. and a d.c. three times in succession
into this ch. of 6. This forms the edge of the pattern. Work 5 ch. and a d.c.
into each succeeding space.
Fig. 153. Second Lace Edging in Crochet.
5th Row. — Turn with 5 ch., and work 3 tr. into each space of the preceding
row, thus producing four sets of tr. as in the 1st row.
Repeat from the commencement of the 2nd row, until the desired length has
been worked.
ii. THIRD LACE EDGING IN CROCHET.
Harder Alternative Pattern.
Materials. — Steel Crochet Hook — size 5. Crochet Cotton, No. 24.
Fig. 154. Third Lace Edging in Crochet.
Instructions. — Commence with 12 ch.
1st Row. — Turn with 3 ch. to form a tr., 1 tr. into 12th ch. (i.e., into the last
of the foundation ch.), 1 tr. into 11th ch., ch. 2, miss 2 ch., 1 tr. into 8th ch., 1 tr.,
1 ch., 1 tr., 1 ch., 1 tr. into the 7th ch., miss 2 ch., 1 tr., 1 ch., 1 tr., 1 ch., 1 tr.
204 KNITTING WITHOUT SPECIMENS.
into 4th ch., miss 2 ch., 1 tr., 1 ch., 1 tr., 1 ch., 1 tr. into 1st stitch of foundation
chain.
2nd Row. — Make 5 ch., and work a single crochet (see General Instructions)
into the first of these 5 ch. Repeat this 5 ch. and single cr. into the first of the
chain, twice more. (This forms three picots and makes an edging to the lace.)
Work 1 d.c. into first space in preceding row, 3 ch., 1 d.c. into next space, miss
next hole (which comes between two sets of 3 tr.), 3 ch. and 1 d.c. into each of
tne next two spaces, miss next hole, 3 ch. and 1 d.c. into each of the next two
spaces (making five sets of 3 ch.), 1 tr. on the tr. in previous row, 2 ch., 1 tr. on
each of the 3 tr. of 1st row.
3rd Row. — Turn with 3 ch. to form a tr., 1 tr. on each of the next 2 tr. of pre-
ceding row, 2 ch., 1 tr. on next tr., 1 tr., 1 ch., 1 tr., 1 ch., 1 tr. into hole formed
by 3 ch. in previous row, miss the next 3 ch., 1 tr., 1 ch., 1 tr., 1 ch., 1 tr. into
next hole, miss next 3 ch., 1 tr., 1 ch., 1 tr., 1 ch., 1 tr. into the last hole formed
by 3 ch.
Repeat second and third rows until the desired length has been obtained.
THE END
Press o/ Isaac Pitman 6- Sons, Bath, England
Q— (8I5B)
Practical Plain Needlework
By ANNIE B. CHAMBERLAIN, B.A., (Lond.)
DiplomSe of the London Institute for the Advancement of Plain Needlework ;
Needlework Instructress in the City of Nottingham Pupil Teachers' Centre.
Foolscap 4to, cloth, 212 pp., fully illustrated with diagrams in two colours, 3s. fid. not.
This Manual is intended for the use of teachers of Needlework in Elementary,
Secondary, and Evening Continuation Schools, and of students preparing for the
Needlework Examinations of the Board of Education. It is based on all the latest
circulars issued by the Board. Directions for the cutting out, making, and mending-
of actual garments are a prominent feature of the book ; there is a wide range of
simple and up-to-date patterns cut out by proportion, with full instructions for
adapting them to give figure measurements as required in practical work and in the-
recent examinations of the Board of Education.
Notes of Lessons on Pattern Drafting
By JOSEPHINE RILEY
Needlework Lecturer to the Teachers' Classes under the London
County Council.
Foolscap 4to, cloth, with 35 full-page diagrams, 128 pp.
Price 2s. 6d. net.
In this volume the author aims at presenting a recognised system correlated with
Art ; and graduated for standards on educational lines. It includes Class lessons
in Pattern Drafting, in Cutting Out in the Material, in the Making-up of the Gar-
ments according to the ability of each class, e.g., Cutting Out and Making a Doll's.
Cloak ; a Simple Dress ; a Child's Pinafore, Petticoat Bodice, Chemise, Princess.
Petticoat ; Drill Knickers ; the " Magyar Overall " ; Girl's Nightdress ; Cooking;
Apron ; Overall ; Gored Skirt ; Swimming Costume, etc.
Needlework Manuals for Upper
Standards and Evening Schools
By FLORENCE SHAW
Head Mistress Newgate Council School, Pontefract.
In Five Books, each 24 pp., paper, with illustrations in two colours. Price 3d. net..
Including drafting of patterns, cutting-out, fitting, and making up of various
garments. No. 1. Blouse-making. No. 2. Skirt-making. No. 3. Cooking-
Apron, Overall, etc. Nos. 4 and 5. Under-garments. The directions con-
tained in these books, which are written according to the requirements of the Board
of Education, are simple and concise, and may safely be given to young students
of 14 or 15.
London : Sir Isaac Pitman & Sons, Ltd., 1 Amen Corner, E.C
The Story of Girlie Bunting on the
Island of "Never-Mind-Where"
By ETHEL R. HAMBRIDGE
Trained Certificated Teacher; Lecturer to Teachers; Diplomee {Gold Seal) of the
London Institute for the Advancement of Plain Needlework, and of the National
Training School of Cookery and other Branches of Domestic Economy in Millinery
and Elementary and Advanced Dressmaking. Author of " Blackboard Diagram
Drawing for Teachers of Needlecraft."
Inscribed by kind permission to Mr. Rudyard Kipling.
In crown 8vo, cloth, with many quaint illustrations, 120 pp. Is. 3d.
The Author has struck a most original note in the production of Girlie Bunting,
for it introduces the child-student of Needlework to her subject on the lines of a
delightful story. Step by step, as the tale unfolds, the child is taken through
the various stages of the work, and even the smallest point has not been omitted.
The young student will also grasp in a most attractive manner the nature and use
of all her workbox implements. A knowledge gained in this interesting way is
likely to remain permanently in the mind. The little heroine, Girlie Bunting, is
certain to prove very fascinating, and the reader, while enjoying her adventures,
will, in addition, absorb almost unconsciously a very thorough preliminary instruc-
tion in Needlework and Dressmaking. The book will be greatly valued in both
Elementary and Secondary Schools.
Knitting for Infants and Juniors
By ETHEL M. DUDLEY, L.L.A.
Sheil Road Council School, Liverpool.
"With a Foreword by Miss S. J. HALE, Principal of the Edge Hill Training College,
Liverpool.
In foolscap 4to, cloth, 64 pp., with over 40 illustrations. 2s. net.
Knitting lessons in the Infants' School frequently have a tendency to monotony
and tediousness, because it is generally supposed that so little of any practical use
can be accomplished by the tiny fingers. This book shows what may be done, as
soon as the simple plain knitting stitch is conquered, in the way of making tiny
garments for a doll, or small articles for a doll's house or for " Mother." Part I
is entirely devoted to the work of Infants and Standard I, all patterns being based
upon the ordinary plain knitting, or garter, stitch. Part II is more advanced,'
requiring the added knowledge of how to work a purl stitch, and is suitable for all
classes of the Junior School. The illustrations consist of photographs and drawings,
the photographs in Part I being of actual articles made by children in the " Sixes "
Class ; that is, by children from 5 to 6J years of age.
London : Sir Isaac Pitman & Sons, Ltd., 1 Amen Corner, E.C.
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